- Description of the table structure
- Detailed analysis of detailing and fittings
- Rallying sliding table top
- Assembling the legs
- Base frame
- Sliding mechanism device
- Completion of assembly
We offer you step-by-step instructions on how to make a sliding table yourself without special fittings. Its device is very technologically advanced, you can assemble it within a couple of hours, as a result, you get a stable and solid dining table with a modern aesthetic design.
Description of the table structure
For the manufacture of the table will go laminated chipboard factory cut 16 mm thick. You can choose the color and texture as you wish; in the presented version, the dark areas are made of textured wenge, the light ones are made of smooth vanilla. All parts have paper end pasting with the exception of the table top – its outer edge is made with 2 mm PVC tape.
The legs of the table are quite voluminous and are assembled from four slats that form a hollow pencil case. The four legs are joined together through a frame that hides the details of the interior. Inside, the frame has two transverse and longitudinal struts, which give additional rigidity and perform a number of additional functions.
The table top is collapsible and sliding. When folded, the worktop is almost flush with the box. If you extend the table and add a middle insert, the table top protrudes 225 mm above the box along the short edges. The design did not use special lift-and-slide fittings, the tabletop parts are installed on full extension drawer guides, the parts are joined using pins and spring latches.
Detailed analysis of detailing and fittings
You can learn more about the design of the table according to the PRO100 project. In the meantime, we will describe the list of parts and accessories that must be purchased. If the table is made in one color, then a little less than one sheet of laminated chipboard of the format 2750x1830x16 will be cut for it. For now, let’s take a quick look at the parts list:
- 100×730 mm – 16 pieces of planks for making legs. Edging on one long and both short sides.
- 984×150 and 784×150 mm – two of each part to form a box. Only one short side without edge.
- 968×70 and 768×70 mm – also two pieces for the box jumpers. Edges without edging.
- 120×70 mm – four small inserts for attaching the tabletop to the rails. Edges may not have.
You will also need three pairs of parts 50×50 mm to install the clamps that hold the parts of the tabletop together, we will talk about them during the description of the assembly process.
The list of fittings is also quite modest:
- Confirmatum 45mm – 54 pcs;
- Plastic connecting corner with plug – 32 pcs;
- Full extension telescopic rails 40 cm – 4 pcs;
- Roller door clamps – 6 pcs;
- Wooden dowel – 6 pcs;
- Shelf holder pin – 6 pcs;
- Self-tapping screw 3×13 mm – 100 pcs.
Rallying sliding table top
Let’s start assembling the table from the table top. Its edges should converge flush without the slightest hint of displacement. In order to exclude shifts, the positioning of the panels is carried out using the pins of the shelf supports. Select one of the wide (outer) halves of the tabletop and on its inner end, which has a paper edge, mark the center of the three holes with an awl and a caliper – 150 mm from each edge and exactly in the center, setting aside 8 mm from the corner edge.
Drill holes 0.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the pins.
Drive in the pins by fully sunk the center collar. To ensure that the pins do not fall out, coat each of them with rubber glue.
Now you need to mark and drill the counter holes. First, we pull together the wide parts of the tabletop. To do this, lay them on a flat surface and support them on the sides with two slats.
Pressing the side rails tightly, knock the two halves against each other with a small swing, while dents from the pins will remain on the counter end. Press them in the center with an awl and drill holes, the diameter of which is exactly equal to the thickness of the pins.
The center piece is adjusted in the same way. On one side, the marks from the pins are also transferred to it. On the other hand, the work becomes more complicated: you need to temporarily insert the pins into the holes of the second wide half, transfer the marks and drill a hole 0.5 mm less than the diameter of the pins, and then put them on glue.
To keep the countertops tightly together, the door holders must be installed. The difficulty here is that the latch with spring-loaded rollers is attached to the plane of one of the parts to be joined, while an additional element is needed for the tongue. Therefore, at the abutting edges of one half of the tabletop and the central insert, it is necessary to fasten on the dowels with a distance of 5 mm from the edge along a small block, at the end of which the tongue is screwed:
We install three tongues on each side.
Next, we join the outer halves of the tabletop as tightly as possible and fasten the latches. In this case, you need to slightly pull back the retainer body (by 1.5-2 mm) so that in the closed position the tabletop experiences a slight tension, after which the places for screwing the screws are marked with an awl.
Having installed the latches on two wide halves, we install the latches on the middle segment. The result is the following connection scheme:
Assembling the legs
It is very easy to assemble the table legs. The four planks are simply rolled into a square box. To facilitate the task, you can make the following device:
The essence here is extremely simple: a longitudinal stop is screwed to the end face of a chipboard sheet, a cross-stop bar is pressed down in the center. One of the planks is laid flat with the uncropped end towards itself, the other is placed on the edge with the uncropped end up.
With a caliper, mark 8 mm from the edge of the workpiece, 100 mm from the edges and exactly in the center of the vertically placed plank. After that, with a drill under the confirmation, we drill the resulting assembly in three places and tighten the plates with confirmation. It is important to ensure that each of the planks overlaps the uncropped end of the adjacent.
First, we recommend making eight L-shaped blanks, and then connecting them into four legs. Please note that when using chipboard of different colors, legs assembled according to the “zebra” pattern look very impressive.
The visible part of the frame is very simple. We place the side plates on a flat plane and twist them with confirmations at a right angle.
As a result, he gets the following box:
Now you can install the frame on the tabletop and place the legs in the corners:
We install the long spacers of the box, pressing them tightly against the legs. In order not to spoil the outer side of the box, the fastening is carried out hidden on the plastic corners.
A minimum gap must be ensured between the spacer and the tabletop, for which 2-3 strips cut from a plastic bottle are placed under the rail.
We temporarily complete the assembly of the frame by installing both longitudinal struts:
Sliding mechanism device
The longitudinal beams of the box are designed for fixing the tabletop guides. We put one of them flat, set the other on top of the edge and fasten it with screws to the longitudinal bar from the inside. In this case, you need to stretch the guide completely and place it so that the outer edge does not reach a little to the corner that holds the box and the crossbar:
With this arrangement, the built-in rail stop will prevent the parts of the mechanism from hitting each other. When the lower guide is fixed, we take out the one that was placed under it and fasten it on top in the same way, but in the opposite direction of opening:
Now you need to fix the sliding rails to the table top. We will do this with 120×70 mm boards. We put them close to the extended guide bar and mark a horizontal line.
To screw the bar to the sliding part of the guide, the latter will have to be removed. The rail is first attached to the vertical adjustment holes and is set exactly according to the applied markings, then fastening is performed at all remaining points.
When the planks are screwed on, we return the guides to their place without confusing them with each other. The mechanism is attached to the tabletop with plastic corners, two for each plate.
Completion of assembly
We return the legs to their place and knock them tightly into the very corner of the box. We fasten the transverse struts with plastic corners, after which the table frame takes on a complete look:
One problem remains. The table top is very tightly cohesive and when you try to pull on one of its halves, the whole assembly will simply slide along the guides. To improve the mechanism of work, we need stops, we will make them all from the same plastic corners. But first you have to temporarily disassemble the frame: we unscrew the corners fixing the longitudinal struts to the box and easily lift it. Exactly in the center of the long sides, we fasten two corners inside:
After that, we return the box to its place and fasten it with the longitudinal strips. We attach two more to the corners in the center of the box on both sides and also attach them, but already to the tabletop itself:
Now you need to make sure that the tabletop does not move spontaneously in the unfolded position. To do this, we put the middle insert in place, then we fasten two corners to it, pressing them to the central corners of the stops fixed on the walls of the box. Note that the corners on the center segment are set on opposite sides:
Finishing little things remained. We generously shoe the legs with plastic heels:
Then we return them to their place and attach them to the frame. One corner is enough, because the legs are already tightly clamped in the square grooves between the frame struts.
To prevent the upper ends of the legs from rubbing against the tabletop, you need to provide a small gap. In this case, we used plugs from the corners:
Congratulations, the table is completely ready to use. For ease of transportation, the legs can be temporarily removed by unscrewing the screws from the corners. So that the insert of the table top is not lost when the table is folded, it can be put inside on the cross braces, it fits there in a wonderful way and easily gets out when the halves are stretched all the way.