- List of required tools
- List of required material
- Locker drawing
- Preparation of material and gluing boards
- Body assembly
Having the necessary tool, it is not difficult to make a paneled cabinet for the kitchen from solid pine on your own. Furniture made of natural wood is safer, more beautiful and more durable than laminated chipboard. The first part of the article provides a step-by-step master class on how to make a cabinet body.
List of required tools
- Saw (circular) table with movable carriage.
- Milling table with stop fence. Milling cutters: “frame binding”, figural (paneled), molding and fillet in two sizes (small and medium), folded for cutting a quarter.
- Jigsaw or band saw for wood.
- Electric Jointer with 90 Degree High Stop.
- Belt and eccentric sander. Sandpaper grit P80, P120, P180.
- Miter saw, furniture stapler (optional).
- Square, tape measure, pencil, sharp knife (breadboard or scalpel). Small brush or wooden medical spatula, medium brush.
- Forstner drill 35 mm, metal drill 3 mm.
List of required material
- Dry pine board 100×25 mm – 8 m.
- Dry pine board 200×50 mm – 0.5 m.
- Rail 25×45 (50) mm – 1.2 m.
- Trimming a hardwood board (ash, beech or oak) 30–40 mm thick, 10–15 cm wide and long.
- PVA class D3 wood glue – 0.1 l.
- Self-tapping screws with a press washer 4.2×50 mm – 4 pcs., Self-tapping screw 3.5×16 mm – 16 pcs., Nails 20×1.2 – 30 pcs..
- Furniture invoice hinge – 4 pcs.
- Natural linseed oil – 0.1 l.
- Beech dowels 35×8 – 4 pieces.
- Fiberboard 3.2 mm thick – 50×60 cm.
Preparation of material and gluing boards
The initial stage consists of planing and thicknessing a pine board. If the boards are even in length, you can simply trim from both sides.
We plan the entire volume of a pine board 100×25 mm in one thickness of 18–20 mm. Next, on an electric planer with a high perpendicular emphasis, we join the longitudinal edges.
We mark and cut to length with a margin of 2–3 cm 8 boards in the width of the cabinet and 4 in height.
We glue the blanks in pairs with D3 glue, evenly distributing it along the longitudinal edge of the board (fugue) with a brush or wooden spatula.
We tighten with clamps.
It is better to remove excess glue immediately with a wet cloth or, after partial drying (1-2 hours), cut off with a chisel. Otherwise, remove completely dried glue with a belt sander..
We run the glued boards from both sides through a thickness gauge.
On a circular table with a movable carriage, we cut the boards to the desired size along the length in accordance with the drawing.
The width of the panels is brought to one width using a parallel stop.
We mark future grooves.
We set the cutting depth on the saw to about 8 mm. With the help of the carriage and the limit stop, we select the grooves from the trimming of the board and the clamp.
The inner edges of the case, as well as both surfaces of the center shelf, are more convenient to grind before assembly.
Next, we set the gap between the saw blade and the stop about 2-3 mm, the cutting depth – by 10 mm.
We make a cut from the inside along the back edges of the walls of the body. Cut the resulting side with a sharp knife. Raise the saw to a full cut without changing the position of the ruler. Cut off the strip from the inner shelves.
These manipulations are needed to flush the rear wall of the fiberboard cabinet. At the same time, all parts of the body and shelves are obtained exactly in one size.
We assemble the body using glue. We put it in the grooves of one of the walls, on the ends of the bottom and top of the body, the central fixed shelf.
We perform similar actions on the other hand, tighten with clamps, controlling the corners with a square.
After the glue dries, we grind the outer surfaces of the case.
On the draw frame we use the grain size P80, on the eccentric – P120.
Using a router and a straight cutter with a diameter of 8 mm, using an inner shelf and even shims as a parallel stop, we make blind holes to a depth of 15–16 mm. They are needed for the top adjustable shelf.
The cornice is made from a single piece of lath with a length of at least 1.2 m with fillet cutters with a diameter of 25 and 19 mm.
In several passes, we make the first sample 25 mm.
We put a smaller fillet, adjust the cutter to a higher cutter overhang, shift the parallel stop, remove material along the longitudinal edge of the rail.
We set the rebate cutter to a sampling depth of 4–5 mm. Choosing a quarter. We cut the resulting workpiece at 45 degrees on a facing or in a carpenter’s miter box, marking the cornice in place.
Installation is carried out using glue, self-tapping screws, furniture stapler.
We make the back wall from a fiberboard sheet, securing it with nails. The upper corners can be strengthened and the cabinet can be subsequently hung on the wall through the through holes.
The paneled doors for this cabinet and the final assembly we will do next week.
DIY furniture: how to make a kitchen cabinet. Part 2