How to do the installation of tiered ceilings with your own hands

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After reading this article, you will get acquainted with the existing types of drywall and profiles for its installation. You will be able to accurately mark the frame, you will be able to independently mount a complex tiered ceiling without professional help and enjoy the final result. Also learn how to check the quality of the mounted tiers during their manufacture..


    • Preliminary inspection of the ceiling of the room
    • Choice of tool and material
    • Ceiling preparation and marking
    • Installation of the frame on the first tier of the ceiling
    • Installation of drywall on the first tier
    • Installation of the frame on the second tier of the ceiling
    • Installation of drywall on the second tier
    • Plaster of plasterboard joints

    Preliminary inspection of the ceiling of the room

    Before starting the installation work, you need to inspect the ceiling on which the drywall will be installed. It is necessary to check whether the ceiling is made of concrete or wood. Based on the humidity of the environment of the room in which the drywall will be installed, and also taking into account its further operation, we choose the desired type of drywall and fastening materials. In rooms (apartment, office) where the usual humid environment is used standard gypsum plasterboard (GKL). And in rooms (bathroom, basement) with a high humid environment, moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard (GKLV) is used. The third type of drywall – fire-resistant gypsum plasterboards (GKLO) are used in rooms (bank safes), where there must be increased fire resistance.

    Choice of tool and material

    To make the installation of tiered ceilings, you will need the following tool: an aluminum level (1m, 2.5m), an impact perforator, a laser level or a hydraulic level, a tape measure, a pencil, a hammer, a tracer, a screwdriver, metal scissors, a square, as a rule (2m, 2, 5m), a hacksaw, a plane for plasterboard and a knife for plasterboard.

    For the construction of tiered ceilings, you will need a 6 mm thick ceiling plasterboard. In the room where the ceiling will be mounted, it is necessary to take into account the humidity of the room, and accordingly, based on this, choose a standard ceiling plasterboard or moisture resistant. You will also need the CD 60 profile and its components, longitudinal connectors, single-level connectors of the “crab” system. It is necessary to take the guide profile UD 27. It is necessary to calculate the height of the lowering of the ceiling as accurately as possible. If the height of lowering the ceiling is up to 12 cm, then it will be necessary to use the universal suspension ES 60/125. When the ceiling is lowered by more than 12 cm, a swivel suspension with an expanding element and a spoke with an eyelet are used.

    Plasterboard ceiling
    Swivel hanger and spoke with eyelet

    You will need dowels, the size of which depends on the density of the working surface on which the suspension is mounted, the higher it is, the smaller the size of the dowel. If the density of the concrete floor is not too high, then hammer-in dowels more than 6×40 in size will be needed to mount the fixing hangers on this floor. To install the fixing hangers on a wooden floor, you will need wood screws 4.5×55 in size and above. You will also need “fleas” self-tapping screw 9.5 mm in size and a self-tapping screw for metal, the length of which is 25 mm.

    Based on the fact that the profile installation on the ceiling is installed after 40 cm, the CD profile will need to be taken more than when it is installed on the wall. Because the installation of the profile on the wall is carried out after 60 cm.

    Ceiling preparation and marking

    Before marking the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account that all electrification and ventilation work has already been completed based on the complexity of the design of the ceiling itself. That is, the wiring must be routed to those places on the ceiling where the lamps will be located in the future. Also, ventilation should be carried out if required by generally accepted safety standards..

    When installing drywall on complex tiered ceilings, first of all, it is necessary to “sew up” the first tier with drywall, from which further tiers will be lowered to a given height. To do this, you need to mark the horizontal level of the room; you can use a laser level or a hydro level. A laser level is much more expensive than a hydro level and is usually available from every professional. If you have to use the hydro level, then to get a more accurate mark of the horizontal level of the room, you must have experience working with it and the assistant. To perform this measurement, you need to put small marks (lines) in all external and internal corners of the room, using a pencil, so that all the lines are in the same horizontal level and plane. Then, in each corner of the room, the distance from the marked marks to the ceiling is measured, and, accordingly, the resulting distance is noted next to each of them. This work is carried out to determine the lowest point on the ceiling, along which we will navigate in order to lower the ceiling.

    It is recommended to lower the ceiling from the minimum distance found by at least 4 cm. Therefore, the height of the ceiling must be calculated accurately. In each corner of the room from the obtained points of the found horizontal level, the obtained difference is noted using a tape measure. Now, using the tracer, we connect all the marked points in series and horizontally. Having calculated the marked height of the ceiling lowering, the UD 27 profile is nailed (mounted) to the wall along the entire perimeter of the line, the dowels are hammered at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.

    Then, with a distance of 40 cm, pencil marks are placed on the ceiling along the wall. Similar patterns should also be noted on the opposite side of the ceiling. Now, using a tracer, you need to connect the opposite marked points to each other. With a distance of 40 cm, parallel lines will be visible on the ceiling. Then on the line with an interval of 50 cm are marked – places where the mounting suspension will be installed in the future. Further, on each subsequent line, marks are placed with an offset of 25 cm.As a result, all points on the ceiling should be staggered.

    The markup for subsequent tiers should be performed after the first tier has been sewn with plasterboard.

    Installation of the frame on the first tier of the ceiling

    After all the markings have been made on the ceiling, a spoke with a swivel suspension and an eyelet or ES fixing hangers are mounted. When the installation of all suspensions is ready, then using a tape measure each line on the ceiling is measured and the CD profile is cut 0.5-1 cm less from the length of this line using scissors. Then, the CD profile is inserted into the UD guide profile fixed to the wall. When the profiles have already been installed, they are set horizontally and fixed to the hangers. To do this, an aluminum level of the greatest possible length is substituted for each CD profile, set horizontally. With the help of “flea beetles”, the CD profile is attached to the ES fastener, the protruding part of which is bent.

    When the CD profile is mounted on a swivel hanger, the fixing with a self-drilling screw is not performed. Because when you rotate the swivel fasteners, the CD profile is clearly fixed on them.

    Installation of plasterboard ceiling
    installation of the frame on the first tier

    Then, as all the profiles are set horizontally, they must be cross-connected to each other using the CD profile and the crab connectors. Transverse profiles are installed at the joints of gypsum plasterboards, for the overall rigidity of the entire structure. Ceiling frame installed.

    When the installation of the frame is installed, you can start checking the quality of installation of the CD profiles in the plane. Perpendicular to the profiles, close to them, a rule of 2-2.5 m is set so that the distance between the rule and the profile does not exceed 1.5 mm. If there are large gaps on the nearest ES fixing hangers, then you will need to twist the “fleas”.

    Duplex plasterboard ceiling
    adjustment of the CD profile on the suspension

    Installation of drywall on the first tier

    After installing the frame, we proceed to the sewing with plasterboard sheets. The sheets are attached to the ceiling in the following way. A sheet is attached to the finished frame with the entire plane, so that one edge of it joins close to the wall, and the other – was in the middle of the CD profile. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the exposed UD and CD profiles using self-tapping screws for metal, the length of which is 25 mm.

    When tightening the screws, it is necessary to ensure that their top does not protrude from the plane of the drywall, but also does not go too deep. As a result, the place of the fastener relaxes when the top layer of the cardboard breaks. The distance between the screwed screws should be within 20-25 cm. During installation, you may need a smaller sheet, which can be cut from a larger sheet using a knife. Then the end of the sheet must be cleaned with a plane.

    Given the pattern of the ceiling, the installation of the first tier with plasterboard can be done incompletely, that is, in places where the second tier of the ceiling will fall, the drywall can not be sewn up. This is done if the sections of the stitched plane of the second tier exceed 2-3m2?, if less then it is recommended to sew.

    Installation of the frame on the second tier of the ceiling

    Installation of the frame on the second tier is carried out in the following order. First, a drawing of the second tier is drawn on the drywall of the first tier. The height to which the second tier is planned to descend is marked from the finished first tier along the perimeter of the entire wall using a tracer (a cord with powder). It is recommended that at a room height of up to 2.6 m, lower the second and subsequent tiers by no more than 5-6 cm.When the room height is over 2.6 m – not less than 6-8 cm. On the resulting line of the wall perimeter of the second tier, the UD profile is mounted in the same way as on the first tier. Now also with a distance of 40 cm on the ceiling for the second tier, it is necessary to place the CD profile. For this, ES fixing hangers are attached to the CD profiles on the first tier using self-tapping screws for metal or “flea beetles” with a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. According to the figure on the first tier, the UD profile is attached using metal screws. If the drawing is arched, then the edges of the UD profile are cut with scissors every 3-4 cm.

    Plasterboard two-tiered ceiling
    Installation of the UD profile on an arched pattern

    In places where CD profiles are installed, the distance from the wall to the nearest edge of the picture is measured. Then the CD profile is cut to the measured length. After that, it is inserted into the UD guide profile and, with the help of an aluminum level, is set in the horizontal plane and fixed with “flea beetles” on hangers.

    Installation of plasterboard ceiling
    Checking the quality of mounting profiles

    After setting all the profiles into place and fastened to the free edges of these profiles, the UD profile is put on. The outer edge of this profile must coincide with the outer edge of the UD profile nailed according to the pattern on the first tier.

    Installation of the ceiling profile
    Installation of the UD profile on the edge of the second tier

    When installing the frame on the second tier, it is possible to make a “pocket” niche in it for interior lighting of the first tier. For this, the measured CD profiles are cut off 10-12 cm more from the obtained length (length from the wall to the edge of the picture). And after the installation of all the profiles, the end between the first and second tiers is not completely sewn up. That is, there should be a distance of 5-6 cm between them so that the luminous tube can subsequently be laid there. This version of the ceiling is more difficult to manufacture, but the end result is more original.

    How to mount a gypsum plasterboard ceiling
    Finished frame of the second tier

    Installation of drywall on the second tier

    Installation of drywall on the second tier is done in the same way as on the first tier, the edges of the sheets are placed close to each other and should coincide in the middle of the CD profile. The edges of the drywall, which protrude beyond the drawing, are cut with a hacksaw along the extreme UD profile and then cleaned with a plane for gypsum board

    Plasterboard installation
    Trimming drywall edges with a hacksaw

    Trimming and stripping drywall
    Cleaning the edge of drywall with a plane

    The end between the first and second tier is also sewn up with plasterboard of the previously measured width. If the contour of the drawing is arcuate, then the strips of the cut drywall must be slightly moistened with water using a lining.

    Drywall bend
    Wetting drywall with water

    After 15-20 minutes, they will bend easily, but do not overdo it, as they can get wet and become unusable.

    GKL ceiling joint putty
    Finished ceiling without putty seams

    Plaster of plasterboard joints

    When all the sheets are mounted, you need to putty in the places of self-tapping screws and drywall seams. It is also necessary to fill and putty the inner corner between the first and second tiers..

    Sealing plasterboard ceilings
    Bunk ceiling with putty seams

    To putty the joints, a special putty is used, which is intended for them, and an adhesive serpentine tape. The adhesive side of the tape is glued to the seam and from above with a spatula and a one-handed trowel is sealed with putty. Bunk ceiling mounted and ready.

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