How to make an air compressor yourself: design options

Recommendation points

• Air compressor from refrigerator parts and fire extinguisher
• Required parts, materials and tools
• Assembly stages
• Air Compressor From Auto Parts
• Compressors using all unnecessary things as receivers

It is not necessary to buy a compressor for painting or pumping up wheels – you can make it yourself from used parts and assemblies taken from old equipment. We will tell you about structures that are assembled from scrap materials.

In order to make a compressor from used parts and assemblies, you need to prepare well: study the diagram, find on the farm or buy some parts. Let’s consider several possible options for self-designing an air compressor..

Air compressor from refrigerator parts and fire extinguisher

This unit works almost silently. Consider a diagram of the future design and make a list of the necessary units and parts.

1 – oil filling tube; 2 – starting relay; 3 – compressor; 4 – copper tubes; 5 – hoses; 6 – diesel filter; 7 – gasoline filter; 8 – air inlet; 9 – pressure switch; 10 – crosspiece; 11 – safety valve; 12 – tee; 13 – receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 – pressure reducer with a manometer; 15 – moisture oil trap; 16 – wall inlet

Required parts, materials and tools

The main elements are: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator (better than made in the USSR) and a fire extinguisher cylinder, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then a compressor from an inoperative refrigerator can be looked for in repair shops or at metal collection points. A fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or attracted to the search for acquaintances, at work who may have decommissioned OHP, ORP, OU for 10 liters. The extinguisher cylinder must be emptied safely.

In addition, you will need:

• pressure gauge (as for a pump, water heater);
• diesel filter;
• filter for a gasoline engine;
• pressure switch;
• electric toggle switch;
• pressure regulator (reducer) with a manometer;
• reinforced hose;
• water taps, tees, adapters, fittings + clamps, hardware;
• materials for creating a frame – metal or wood + furniture wheels;
• safety valve (to relieve excess pressure);
• self-locking pneumatic inlet (for connecting, for example, to an airbrush).

In addition, you will need tools: a hacksaw, a wrench, a syringe, as well as FUM-summer, “anti-rust”, synthetic motor oil, paint or enamel for metal.

Assembly stages

Before starting the assembly, you need to prepare the motor-compressor and the fire extinguisher cylinder.

1. Preparing the motor-compressor

Three tubes come out of the motor-compressor, two of which are open (air inlet and outlet), and the third, with a sealed end, for oil change. To find the air inlet and outlet, you need to briefly apply a current to the compressor and put the appropriate marks on the tubes.

Next, you need to carefully cut or cut off the sealed end, making sure that copper filings do not get inside the tube. Then drain the oil inside and use a syringe to fill in motor, synthetic or semi-synthetic. The tube can be sealed by choosing a screw of a suitable diameter, which must be wrapped with FUM tape and screwed into the hole. A sealant can be applied over the joint. If necessary, paint the surface with enamel.

2. Preparing the receiver

The shut-off and start valve (ZPK) must be removed from the empty cylinder of the fire extinguisher. Clean the outside of the container from rust and dirt, and pour inside and hold “anti-rust” – as much as indicated on the label of the product. Let it dry, and screw on the cover with a hole from the ZPK. We screw the adapter into the hole (if necessary) and fasten the crosspiece.

We attach a pressure switch to the upper branch pipe, on one side we screw a tee and connect a pressure gauge, on the other we mount a safety valve or a valve for manually bleeding air (option). Where required, we use adapters. If necessary, paint the balloon.

3. Assembling the circuit

On the assembled frame (for example, a solid board on wheels or a structure made of strong corners, pipes) we attach a cylinder, and on it or next to it – a motor-compressor, laying a rubber gasket. We first connect the gasoline filter and then the diesel filter to the air intake pipe of the compressor. This should be done if the compressor is designed to operate an airbrush to eliminate the slightest air pollution. And since the filter for diesel is more “thin”, it is installed after the gasoline one. If the copper pipes lost their shape during dismantling, they need to be expanded.

The power supply is connected through a toggle switch, pressure switch and start relay. We protect all connections with electrical tape or heat shrinkage. It is important to set the starting relay in the correct position – according to the arrow on its cover, otherwise the device will not work correctly.

1 – toggle switch; 2 – pressure switch; 3 – compressor start relay; 4 – arrow of the relay position; 5 – connection of the relay to the compressor windings; 6 – compressor

The outlet air tube from the compressor is connected through an adapter to the inlet to the receiver. After the pressure gauge, we mount a gearbox with a remote moisture-oil trap, and behind it a hose with a self-locking pneumatic inlet.

The end result, with due diligence, works well and looks aesthetically pleasing..

Air Compressor From Auto Parts

An air compressor has a fundamentally different design, which is assembled on the basis of a ZIL compressor and a free-standing engine. This is a more powerful equipment that can be used to connect pneumatic tools. Very noisy unit.

Compressor unit layout drawing: 1 – compressor from ZIL-130; 2 – corner frame; 3 – safety valve; 4 – standard pressure gauge; 5 – transfer case; 6 – three-phase electric motor (1 kW, 1380 rpm); 7 – starting box (from the washing machine); 8 – capacitor bank (working capacity – 25–30 μF, starting – 70–100 μF); 9 – receiver (from oxygen cylinder or KrAZ silencer); 10 – V-belt transmission (speed reduction 1: 3); 11 – Stop button; 12 – button “Engine start”; 13 – button for short-term switching on of the starting capacitor bank; 14 – connection of the supply (exhaust) valve; 15 – aluminum tubes O 6 mm; 16 – outlet valves; 17 – intake valves; 18 – wheels (4 pcs.); 19 – transverse stiffening rib; 20 – tie rod (M10 – 4 pcs.); 21 – drain hole with plug

Connecting a three-phase motor to a single-phase network: a – “triangle”; b – “star”

You can watch an example of self-assembly of an air compressor from new parts and assemblies in the video.

Compressors using all unnecessary things as receivers

If, when choosing compressors and motors, craftsmen settled on nodes from refrigerators and cars, then they do not use anything as receivers – even bottles of champagne and Coca-Cola (at pressures up to 2 atm). Here are a few good ideas.

If you have a receiver from KrAZ at hand, you can get a unit with minimal labor costs: all the pipes are already screwed into it.

Compressor unit with receiver from KrAZ

If you own unnecessary diving equipment, you can use it in your work..

Receiver from scuba tanks (installation stage – without capacitor bank)

Almost every summer resident with a stove on gas cylinders will have these unnecessary containers..

Compressors with receivers from a gas cylinder

If a “pear” is leaking at the accumulator in the water supply system, do not throw it away. Use it as a receiver by removing the rubber membrane.

Receiver from the accumulator

An expansion tank from a VAZ is an inexpensive purchase, even if it is new.

Receiver – expansion tank from a VAZ car

The next idea for air conditioner installers who still have freon cylinders and split system parts.

Freon bottle as a receiver

Another viable receiver came from a tubeless car wheel. Extremely budgetary, although not very powerful model.

Receiver from wheel

We invite you to watch a video about this experience from the author of the design.