- Types of metal siding with wood imitation
- House insulation system and frame fastening
- Rail assembly and embedded
- Siding installation
Metal siding is ideal for facade cladding, this material combines excellent appearance and high performance. Following our instructions, you will learn to understand the types of material and easily complete the installation yourself.
Types of metal siding with wood imitation
Visually, metal siding under a bar is very difficult to distinguish from natural wood, it is given only by corner and joint profiles, as well as framing of openings. This method of finishing compares favorably with wood: it does not burn, does not lose its attractive appearance over time, does not require periodic processing and has an extremely simple installation technology.
There are several types of metal siding for timber, the most obvious differences between which are expressed in appearance. The material can have a “block house” profile, imitating a blockhouse made of rounded logs, or a flat panel format with chamfers, imitating a bar. There are a great many options for colors, wood species and textures, and although decorative qualities are not at the forefront, they need to be able to correctly combine with the decoration of the pediment, basement and roof.
Siding under a bar is made of the same material as most types of metal roofing: galvanized steel sheet with a thickness of 0.7 mm in a protective and decorative polymer shell. For durability, it is important to have a passivation layer over galvanizing, a primer layer, a base paint layer of sufficient thickness (from 120 microns) and a protective coating of the appropriate type: pural, plastisol, PVDF. Pay attention to the quality of rolling: the presence of dents, distortions, damage to the protective layer, the locks on the edges must have the same profile along the entire length. It is also important to ensure correct transportation, because siding is very often damaged during delivery to the site and unloading, especially for panels of the maximum possible length (6 meters).
House insulation system and frame fastening
Like other types of siding, metal is used in ventilated facade systems with mineral wool insulation. Nevertheless, quite often you can find projects in which expanded polystyrene acts as a heater, while siding as a curtain does not fulfill its main function, it is preferred exclusively because of its decorative and operational qualities..
The biggest problem when installing metal siding is to correctly combine the thermal protection belt and the frame subsystem. Suspended finishing requires attachment to the load-bearing layer of the wall by means of direct suspensions, which must be installed before installing the insulation. The entire frame system must be carefully thought out so that the racks are located in the places where the docking and corner profiles are installed with the necessary technological indents. Thus, the installation of the frame is divided into two stages: the installation of fasteners and the assembly of the racks, between which the installation of the heat-insulating circuit is carried out.
When removing the siding over the load-bearing wall layer up to 80 mm, you can use straight hangers for gypsum board systems, up to 200 mm – only L-shaped brackets bent from perforated mounting plates. Due to its high rigidity, metal siding does not require frequent positioning of racks, the distance between them is chosen in the range of 70–90 cm. The weight of such a finish is higher than that of vinyl, therefore rack mounts are placed more often – suspensions with a pitch of about 40 cm and brackets made of plates with a pitch of up to 60 cm. The second type of fastener is much more profitable to place in a checkerboard pattern to avoid twisting the racks.
After fixing the suspensions or brackets, they are fastened with temporary stands, the verticality of their installation and the general flatness are checked, after which the stands are dismantled. When installing the insulation, the fastening elements pierce it, while the protrusion of the tails should be at least 30 mm. If mineral wool is used as insulation, it is protected from atmospheric influences by covering it with a wind-waterproof film that allows steam to pass through. The canvases are fastened horizontally from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm, in places of punctures the film is carefully cut and then pasted over with special tape. If the house was insulated with expanded polystyrene, the holes in the insulation at the places where the suspensions are installed are filled with mounting foam after the assembly of the frame is completed.
Rail assembly and embedded
Metal siding for a log or timber always has a horizontal direction, respectively, the racks are located vertically. The galvanized profiles are attached to the suspensions with self-tapping screws, after which the mustache is bent to the side. If installation is carried out on brackets, their length is determined at the time of bending of the plates so that the ends do not protrude above the plane of the profile. Vertical struts to reinforce the frame must be equipped with horizontal struts. They are made from the same galvanized profile, cutting off the side shelves at the edges and leaving a central tongue, which is overlapped to the rack with blind rivets.
The entire frame system is assembled using the same technology as when sheathing the walls of the gypsum board, only the pitch of the racks and the location of the fastening points differ. The ceiling profile CD 60 is used with a metal thickness of at least 0.55 mm and high-quality galvanizing. In addition to the main racks, it is also necessary to provide additional:
- At corners with an offset of the profile axis of 120 mm from the line of convergence of the planes formed by the frame;
- With an offset of 200 mm on both sides from the axis of the docking profile (end plate).
Under and above the window openings, in accordance with the slope of the low tide and the dawn of the slopes, horizontal crossbars are attached, which are needed to fix the framing profiles. If roller shutters are installed on the windows, the posts on the sides of the opening are reinforced with a 40×60 mm bar inserted into the profile. In the places where the docking pads are installed, the extreme posts are fastened together with horizontal crossbars with a step of 40 cm.The same reinforcement is required at the corners: the extreme posts are fastened together with inserts bent from a regular profile at 90 °, while the folds of the shelves at the bend are necessary fasten with self-tapping screws.
It should be noted that there are specialized subsystems for metal siding, in which the L-shaped or omega-profile acts as racks. Such a frame is characterized by a high manufacturability of assembly, has a metal thickness of 0.9 mm and is supplied as a set, including mounting brackets and all additional elements required for installation. However, such subsystems are quite expensive, so private developers, for the most part, prefer gypsum plasterboard profiles..
Before fixing the siding, all fittings are installed on the corners and framing of the openings. The fixing of the corner plates is carried out in the lintels, which fasten the extreme posts at the corners to each other. It is also possible to mount directly into the rack if its position has been calculated in advance. If the standard length of the lining is not enough, an extension is cut out to it, which is joined by cutting and bending the inner walls of the grooves. It is better to place the filler at the bottom of the corner, while the main part of the lining should overlap it with an overlap from above to prevent water flowing under the skin..
Installation of slopes begins with the installation of an ebb, which is made of roofing iron with a polymer coating. In the rear part of the low tide, an edge 5–7 mm wide is folded upwards for installation in the groove of the window frame; on the sides, two “wings” of 60–80 mm are formed, which are wrapped around the slope walls. The ebb is attached to the frame profiles framing the opening, the gap from the bottom is filled with polyurethane foam. In addition to the “wings”, the upper side of the slope has a curved edge 40–50 mm wide, which is subsequently hidden under the siding, and the edge adjacent to the window has a bend of about 15 mm with rolling and is attached directly to the frame. The side panels are made individually, taking into account the slope of the ebb and the top bar, the ends are necessarily rolled. Along the contour of the abutment to the frame, the attachment points of the upper and side panels are covered with decorative glazing beads (finishing strip), and a metal J-profile is mounted along the outer contour.
1 – hard inner corner; 2 – drainage; 3 – slope bar; 4 – N-provfil; 5 – simple outer corner; 6 – hard outer corner; 7 – J-profile; 8 – docking bar
Installation of metal cladding begins with the installation of starter strips around the entire perimeter of the building. In most cases, instead of the starting strip, you can use the cut off top edge of the siding panel, because the final row will be made from cut-off board one way or another. The installation of the siding itself is not difficult: the panel clings with the lower lock to the groove of the previous row and is screwed with self-tapping screws with a press washer to the posts, it is only important not to hold the fasteners about 1 mm in order to ensure freedom of temperature deformations. The panels are trimmed so that in the grooves of the docking and corner profiles there is a gap of about 8-10 mm on each side, which will make it easy to start the siding at an angle with the fittings already installed. After the upper final row is fixed by the through fastening, a decorative corner strip made of roofing iron is attached in the corner under the cornice, then they begin to finish the soffit.