Have you decided to replace your heavy slate roofing with a lighter modern material? Take your time to hire expensive professional roofers. In this article, Our site will tell you how to do all the roofing work on our own..
Until recently, asbestos-cement slate sheets invented back in 1901 were considered the main roofing material. Such an “eternal” roof met all the necessary qualities that were relevant at that time, but it also had one significant drawback – an impressive weight. Today, with the arrival of new roofing materials on the market, slate is rapidly losing ground. The population massively covers the roofs with ondulin, corrugated board or metal tiles. At the same time, hired construction crews, in order to increase the estimated cost of the work, as well as to make life easier for themselves, often convince the customer to perform a complete dismantling and manufacture the roof from scratch. Others believe that it is enough to simply remove the old roofing material and you can safely lay a more modern one. The truth, as always, lies somewhere in the middle. Let’s try to explain how to actually act.
In order to build something new, you first need to remove everything old that hinders us. That is, to carry out dismantling work. And, of course, you need to start dismantling with … a weather forecast. Before you start roofing work, you should find out if weather forecasters promise us long and prolonged rains. After all, we are already blocking the living room, with all the internal work, so that rainfall inside is categorically undesirable.
Important! Even if the forecasters gave the go-ahead, still stock up on film, tarpaulin or other waterproofing.
For dismantling, we need a nail puller, a wooden block, ropes and a couple of hooks as thick as a slate nail, as well as two guide bars that will serve for safe lifting and lowering of roofing materials.
Dismantling should begin in the reverse order to installation, that is, first remove the skate, then the top row of slate, and so on until the bare crate. We pull the nails out with a nail puller, placing a wooden block in the place of the last stop. The asbestos-cement sheets should be lowered along wooden guides, having hooked them to the holes previously made by the nails with hooks. Lowering the slate just by rope is unsafe.
Do not strive to dismantle the slate from the entire roof at once, if the team is small and you do not have time to cover the roof in one day, replace it in stages, first repairing one slope, then the next.
Following the slate, we also dismantle the old crate, leaving only a bare rafter system on the plane.
Repair of the roof system
Since the requirements for the plane of slate and corrugated board are different (for the installation of corrugated board, a perfectly flat surface is required), we will build this plane.
First you need to pay attention to the condition of the extreme rafter beams and the presence of a plane as a whole. To do this, in all four corners of the slope we are repairing on the rafters, we tighten the screws so that all 4 caps are not tightened by 3 cm to the bar. From corner to corner diagonally, as well as along the rafters, we pull the lacing. Thus, checking whether the plane is even, and whether there is a bump on the wooden structure. The diagonally stretched threads should barely touch each other at the intersection. If there is no plane, we build it by unscrewing (but not twisting) the necessary screws.
Further, focusing on the plane we built, we align the rafters with an edged board, hemming it to the timber with a bolted connection.
Now, using the extreme rafters as beacons, we pull the lacing between them in increments of 1.5-2 m and revise the rest of the rafter system. If necessary, we level the rafters with an edged board, and in case of severe damage to the tree, we make a complete replacement. In any case, 2 people can cope with such work without much labor costs, who simply have the skills to handle a construction tool, while the manufacture of a new truss system requires the forces of an entire construction team with the participation of really professionals in the roofing business.
Manufacturing of lathing
The next step is the installation of the waterproofing membrane. It is laid horizontally over the rafters, starting at the bottom and going up to the ridge. The waterproofing must overlap so that water can flow down it. We nail the film to the rafters with a stapler.
Important! Do not lay the waterproofing “tightly”, it should sag slightly, thereby increasing the size of the ventilated space.
In parallel with the hydro-barrier, we mount the crate. If this is not done, then there will be problems with how to get on the plane of the rafter system without damaging the waterproofing membrane.
The installation of the crate begins with the installation of a support bar (50×40 mm), which is attached over the waterproofing film along the entire length of the rafters. For installation, we use a 4.2×75 self-tapping screw. The installation step is 35–40 cm. It is not necessary to use a long beam for the entire rafter, blanks of 1–1.5 m are quite suitable.
For the transverse lathing, an edged “shalyovka” is suitable – a board measuring 25×150 mm. We start installation from the cornice itself and ending with the ridge. The first and last board should go along the very edges of the rafters, the rest should be located in increments of 450 mm, that is, between the boards you need to install a 30 cm template (the crate is designed for C21 brand corrugated board, for other types of iron the crate pitch will be different).
When finished with the crate, go to the second ramp. There we also carry out all the above operations. The only difference is in the installation of the last ridge board. It should cover the corresponding board of the opposite slope; for this, the latter is trimmed with an electric planer. Protect both boards with one piece of waterproofing membrane, securing it with a stapler.
Finally, we mount the wind board. It is attached to the end of the crate and should protrude above it to the height of the corrugated board wave, it can be a couple of millimeters lower.
Installation of corrugated board
When the work with the tree is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the corrugated board. It would be nice to buy it in a size equal to the length of the ramp. This is the distance from the ridge to the end of the rafters, plus another 5-8 cm.
The sheets are carefully removed from the pack and fed to the roof along the inclined guide bars, for convenience in that part of the sheet that will be covered with a ridge, in the outer wave you can make a couple of holes for hooks.
Important! Sheets of corrugated board should be removed from the pack, and not pulled off. Polymer coating is very easy to scratch.
The first sheet is displayed very carefully. It will depend on him how the rest of the iron will fall. To do this, we fasten flags to the extreme rafters, small slats 20-30 cm in length, which are installed in the same plane with the rafter system and protrude 10-15 cm beyond its limits. At a distance of 5–8 centimeters from the eaves, a self-tapping screw is twisted strictly perpendicularly into such a rail so that its head is higher than the wave height of the corrugated board. Further, between the two extreme flags along the wave height of the metal sheet, we pull the lacing. If it sags, the flags can be duplicated. Straightening on a thread, exposing the iron is much easier.
Important! Any trimming of the corrugated board should be carried out from the side of the ridge, from the side of the eaves there should only be a factory cut.
The corrugated board is mounted to the lathing using screws with press washers at the rate of 6-8 pcs / m3. It is useful to calculate and outline the attachment points on the ground..
Important! We tighten the self-tapping screws without fanaticism, the press washer should press the iron to the crate, but at the same time not be very deformed.
We mount wind corners and ridge. It is much easier to perform these works right away than to climb the slippery iron later, with the risk of crushing or scratching it. To fix the ridge, long drills with a press washer are used, which are capable of piercing the thickness of the corrugated board and fixing it in the tree. Editing is done through an external wave.
Important! All high-rise work is carried out only with the use of insurance and with the well-being of the master. Breaking these simple rules can lead to tragic consequences..