How to insulate a house from the inside

Recommendation points

• Features of insulation from the inside
• What material is better for internal insulation
• The main stages of warming the walls of the house from the inside
• What will it cost to insulate a house from the inside

Requirements for thermal protection of buildings are regularly tightened. The owners of private cottages themselves are interested in this, because energy is only getting more expensive. But there are often cases when already in the first winter after the construction of the house it turns out that it turned out to be too cold and additional thermal insulation is needed. How to do this will be discussed further..

Features of insulation from the inside

When it is necessary to reduce heat loss at home, the task should be approached comprehensively. Precious heat can escape through any building envelope:

• foundation;
• lower floor (if the floors are made “on the ground”, there is a cold basement);
• exterior walls;
• door and window openings (filling and slopes);
• top floor (if the attic is cold);
• roof (if there is an attic);
• ventilation ducts.

Important! It happens that several zones are vulnerable at once, most often freezing is observed in the places of their conjugation, that is, in the inner corners. Our task is to find critical heat loss and “neutralize” it. It is highly advisable to conduct a thermal audit of the building using a thermal imager or pyrometer.

Obviously, the internal insulation of the building envelope is a repair option, and it makes sense to use it when the insulation from the outside for some reason cannot be performed. Still, the best place for insulation is from the street. There are several reasons for this. The main problem is the poor location of the dew point. If the insulating material is located on the warm side of walls and ceilings, then it prevents the heating of the arrays of structures, and they almost completely freeze through. It often happens that in winter and in the off-season the dew point falls into the contact zone of the insulating layer with the base. As a result, condensation falls out here, the walls get damp, and mold appears on the surfaces..

The method of dealing with unwanted moisture has long been known – to prevent water vapor from reaching the dew point. If everything is done correctly, trouble can be avoided. Some rules can be formulated:

1. It is necessary to optimize the ventilation system (for example, install fans) to limit the humidity in the rooms. After all, the higher the humidity, the higher the dew point, and, accordingly, the greater the likelihood of condensation..
2. All possible cold bridges should be eliminated, for example, if frames are used for sheathing, then the insulation is placed not between the profiles / bars, but behind them.
3. It is necessary to carefully seal the joints in the insulating layer and the area of ​​its abutment to other structures.
4. The slabs are mounted so that a minimum of voids remain between it and the bearing plane..
5. Vapor barrier is mandatory.
6. The finish of the insulated surfaces should be with minimal vapor permeability.
7. You should be especially careful when choosing materials for insulation (type, thickness, “breathing” ability).

What material is better for internal insulation

Roll glass wool cannot be used. It does not have sufficient compressive strength; in vertical structures it slides downward. Basalt wool mats are also not an ideal solution, because there is always a danger of wetting its fibers, due to which the insulation will not be able to resist heat transfer.

Foamed polymers are needed. Ball foam is better, but it is still vapor-permeable, although not so, it is able to accumulate water. Extruded polystyrene foam looks like the most preferred piece of materials for internal insulation of a house. This practical material is characterized by zero hygroscopicity. A huge plus is the presence of a lock, which helps to seal all joints as much as possible..

The supporting structures are also conveniently and effectively insulated with a layer of polyurethane foam. It is a fast-curing two-component compound that is sprayed onto surfaces to form a monolithic continuous coating without any gaps. They can also fill various voids through the holes or, for example, insulate curved walls..

Important! Most experts agree that when insulating buildings from the inside, a relatively small layer of insulator must be used (so as not to shield the walls from warm air at all). So for EPS, the recommended plate thickness is 20-30 mm..

It is also necessary to prepare supporting materials:

• polyurethane adhesive for panels;
• plastic dowels with a dish-shaped head;
• waterproofing film;
• Scotch.

The main stages of warming the walls of the house from the inside

The technology for creating an insulating layer will be approximately the same when working with ceilings or walls. Unless only on the floor, adhesive / mechanical fixation to the base may not be applied. Dense basalt wool, foam, EPS – these materials are installed according to the same principle. For example, consider the insulation of walls from the inside with plates of extruded polystyrene foam.

1. The basis is being prepared. For this, poorly adhering layers are removed, the surfaces are primed. The plane is checked with a plumb line and a rule. If local differences or general deviations from the vertical are detected, it is recommended to align it.

2. EPPS sheets are cut with a knife on drywall.

3. Glue is applied to the back of the sheet. A strip is made 2 centimeters from the edge along the entire perimeter, as well as one or two strips in the center of the panel. If an adhesive mixture is used, which is sealed with water, it must be applied in a continuous way under a comb, and not “beacons-bloopers”.

4. The sheets are pressed tightly to the surface so that the gap is minimal.

Important! If possible, install insulation on adjacent walls, floor, ceiling. So that the corner is also protected.

5. If the lock is not provided on the heat-insulating panels, then the joints must be filled with polyurethane foam. The joints of the sheets with the lock are only glued with clerical or construction metallized tape, but the adjoining of the insulation layer to the floor and ceiling must be foamed.

6. As a safety net, the panels should be fixed with 1–2 dowels (depending on the length of the product) located in the center. The hat is lightly embedded in the material or left completely on the surface.

Important! It is forbidden to use dowels with a metal nail, as this is a ready-made cold bridge.

7. On glue or double-sided tape, attach sheets of roll material that protects the wall from water vapor. It can be plain or foamed polyethylene. The joints of the vapor barrier canvases and the edges adjacent to the enclosing structures are glued with tape.

What will it cost to insulate a house from the inside

We offer you a table for calculating the cost of materials for wall insulation with extruded polystyrene foam.

Name	unit of measurement	Consumption	Price per pack / unit	Price for 1 sq. m, rub.
“Penoplex” 30 mm	Packing 10 sq. m		1230	123
Glue “Penoplex” FASTFIX	750 ml balloon	1 for 7-10 sq. m	350	35
PE film 200 microns	Roll 3×100 meters		5400	18
Disc dowel 90 mm	Package 400 pcs.	2 pcs / sq. m	1040	2.6
Universal adhesive tape 50 mm	Roll 25 rm. m	5 running. m / sq. m	50	ten