Glass blocks came into fashion in the 30s and lasted until the 50s, now they have largely lost their former popularity, although in some places they are preferred again. This can be explained by the fact that a hollow glass block retains heat better than a solid piece of glass, and the problems of increasing energy costs today are not the last. Glass blocks transmit light almost as well as flat glass; however, they scatter it, which makes them opaque and preserves privacy. The glass blocks are strong enough to resist vandalism and burglary. True, they still cannot be supporting structures. Therefore, from above they are covered with load-bearing transverse bridges. With these precautions, an experienced bricklayer can build a glass block up to 2.5 square meters into the wall. The mortar should be composed of white Portland cement and 3 parts of clean, dry fine needle sand. Water is mixed with an equal volume of a liquid additive such as styrene butadiene, which reduces shrinkage and improves the adhesive properties of the solution.
Large areas should still be built by a professional. Additional metal structures are needed to connect the blocks to existing surrounding structures and to compensate for the difference in thermal expansion coefficients of glass and other building materials, as well as to protect the blocks from strong winds. You don’t need any special equipment or special skills to replace a broken glass block, and some professional tricks on this page will help you get the job done quickly and accurately. Finding the correct replacement unit is easy. A building materials company will select a block of any size from any kind of glass for you.
And you also need an assistant who will hold the board on the opposite side so that the solution does not seep out when installing the block..
Deleting a Broken Block
Using an electric drill with a small diameter drill and a hardened steel tip, drill a series of holes in the cement around the broken block. To avoid damaging the cemented tie rods at the block connections, point the drill towards the damaged block. Wear safety glasses and gloves when working. The holes should be fairly close to each other, but not touching. Carefully remove the cement around the block with a chisel. Then push the block out of the wall. Remove the remaining cement from the cavity with a wire brush.
Installing a new block
Apply a layer of mortar about 12-13 mm to the bottom of the cavity and carefully place a new block in it. Slide a long, thin plank into the slot above the new block and tap on top with a hammer to align the block with the rest. Using a trowel, drive some mortar into the upper side slots and let it drain down, then tamp the mortar with a wooden block, then add more mortar and tamp it again. Add the solution little by little until the side slots are filled with the solution, then fill the gap above the block with a trowel. Align the new connection so that it does not look different from the rest. Remove any excess solution immediately after use with a wet cloth.