To begin with, it is necessary to mark the design position of the suspended ceiling around the perimeter of the room on the walls using a level, the length of which must be at least 1.5 meters, a hydro level, a cord breaker (markings should be made according to the project).
Instead of a level and water level on large construction sites, it is advisable to use a laser level to quickly perform breakdowns. A properly designed structure can save up to 10-15% of sheets (plates) and profile.
With a set pitch for a given type of ceiling and type of load, the points of attachment of the suspensions are marked. In places where the ceiling is marked with a perforator, holes are drilled in the supporting base with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth of 40-60 mm. If the bases are wooden, large-thread self-tapping screws should be used to fasten the frame elements, without conservative drilling.
This suspension system uses a straight suspension to attach the main profile to the supporting structure. If there are differences in the level of the supporting structure (ceiling) greater than the length of the direct suspension, then additionally, a suspension for PP profiles should be used. Let’s consider this case. To fasten the hanger for PP profiles, a rod is first mounted. In the supporting structure, according to the markings, a hole is drilled (6 mm in diameter and 40 mm in depth). Insert a wedge anchor (anchor dowel) into the lug. Drive a wedge anchor (anchor plug) into the drilled hole with a hammer until it locks in place.
Next, we mount a straight suspension, which is attached using the same wedge anchor.
The wedge anchor is inserted into the direct suspension plate and hammered into a pre-drilled hole in the supporting structure (hole size 6 mm in diameter and 40 mm in depth). A technological slot in a straight suspension with a wedge-anchor not completely hammered in allows for precise positioning of the suspension before full fixation.
Then you need to bend the side strips of the direct suspension at an angle of 90 degrees.
Put the hanger on the rod, keeping the spring clip in a compressed state, which is located on the hanger. Adjust the height. Release the spring clip to secure. If the suspension rod is too long and interferes with further installation, bend it to the side.
After fixing the suspensions to the supporting base, the main PP 60×27 profiles or wooden bars 50×30 mm are mounted on them, followed by checking and leveling the horizontal level according to the markings on the wall. The length of the main profile (bar) should be less than the length of the room by 10 mm.
If necessary, cut the profile with metal scissors according to the installation plan.
Fastening of the main profile PP 60×27 and direct suspension is carried out using self-tapping screws LN 16.
Anchor suspension (suspension for PP profiles) is inserted into the main profile so that the curved upper edges of the profile fall into the suspension grooves. Make sure that the main profile is parallel to the markings on the wall.
A sealing tape is glued to the wall along the perimeter, in the places where the drywall joins the wall. Then you need to prepare the drywall sheets for installation. From the end edges of gypsum plasterboard sheets that are not pasted over with cardboard, using an edge planer, it is necessary to chamfer at a certain angle (22.5 degrees – 2/3 of the sheet thickness).
Before installing drywall, place all electrical wiring in the structure, guided by safety precautions. All cables must be run in special cable channels. The cables should not touch the sharp edges of the metal frame, and should not run inside the profiles to avoid damage to the insulation and short circuits. Pull out a bit of the cable near the intended location of the fixtures so that it can be easier to find later. If the holes in the drywall for the luminaires will be cut out after mounting it on the frame (that is, suspended), then make sure not to damage the cable.
Install the plasterboard with props, a telescopic lift or manually into the design position and fix them to the frame. Plasterboard sheets are arranged horizontally, adjusted to each other and screwed to the frame with screws, while their deformation should not be allowed. Installation of soundproofing material (if necessary) is carried out in parallel with the installation of each sheathing sheet. The thickness and density of the sound-insulating material must be calculated and taken into account in the loads when choosing the type and design of the false ceiling.
Fastening work must be carried out from the corner of the drywall sheet in two mutually perpendicular directions. Gypsum plasterboard sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, spaced at intervals of 150 mm on adjacent sheets at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the sheet pasted over with cardboard and at least 15 mm from the cut off. The self-tapping screws must enter the plasterboard sheet at a right angle and penetrate into the metal frame of the frame to a depth of at least 10 mm, and into the wooden beam – at least 20 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be sunk into the drywall to a depth of about 1 mm for the purpose of their subsequent puttying, while the head of the self-tapping screw must not tear the cardboard.
Drill holes for the fixtures, if they were not made in advance.
Docking the plasterboard sheet should only be on the supporting frame profiles. The cardboard in the places where the screws are twisted should not be tousled. Deformed or incorrectly placed self-tapping screws must be removed, replaced with new ones, which must be located at a distance of at least 50 mm from the previous attachment point.
Is the installation of a plasterboard ceiling a difficult task? Are there any specific skills or tools required? Any tips or advice for someone attempting this for the first time?