Laying commercial linoleum without bending on the wall
1. Cut a strip of the desired length so that it folds over the wall, about 5 cm on each side.
2. Slide the strip as close as possible to the wall you will be starting from, allowing the bend of the material to lie on opposite walls.
3. Extend the scribe at least 10mm beyond the farthest distance from the wall to the edge of the material and draw a line. Cut the material along the line with a hook knife.
4. Press again the material against the wall and draw a line with a pencil along the edge of the material on the opposite side from the wall and mark with a pencil the crossing line on the bottom layer and on the covering near the edge against the wall.
5. Slide the strip of material back along the line you drew so that it rests without bending.
6. Set the distance between the support and the needle on the scriber so that it is equal to the distance between the intersecting lines you marked on the bottom base and on the material.
7. Draw a line at this distance across the strip of material against the wall and cut the material along the line. Repeat exactly the same on the other side. Now the strip of material fits exactly. Sweep the bottom layer carefully and you can lay the floor material.
8. Cut the next strip in the same way for length and width if only two strips will fit. When stacking three or more strips, only the edges are cut in the cross direction. When cutting joints, the strips are superimposed one on top of the other with an overlap of 15-20 cm.
9. Fold back all the overlapping strips as one strip, half bending back. The vinyl material should not be bent as this creates compression. When the strip of material is then placed on the glue, air bubbles may form as a result of compression..
10. Spread the acrylic adhesive solution with a trowel, using one liter of adhesive on approximately 4-5 m2 of the bottom surface of an absorbent floor, or 5-6 m2 of the bottom surface of a non-absorbent floor. Be careful not to leave any build-up of glue or puddles. If the bottom layer is not porous, let the glue dry a little so that it feels almost dry. On a porous surface, the material can be applied a few minutes after applying the adhesive. Follow the instructions provided with the adhesive.
11. Unfold against the wall and place the strips of material on the glue. Unfold the material so that no air bubbles remain under it.
12. Carefully squeeze out any air that may have remained under the material with a piece of plywood or chipboard wrapped in a soft material and then use a 45 kg roller to squeeze out any air bubbles.
13. Do the same on the other half of the room. Make sure that there are no glue lumps under the material or that you do not leave streaks of hardened glue. Hardened adhesive can create unevenness on the new floor.
14. When the material is applied to the adhesive, cut the joints to the required size. Draw cutting lines at the joints with a “scribe”, draw the lines so that the material fits well to each other at the joint. If the cut is too large, air bubbles or clumps can be created. If the cut is too large, air bubbles or clumps can be created. Cut the material along the line with a hook knife. For this purpose, you can also use a special joint cutter..
15. Wipe the joint.
Laying commercial curved linoleum against a wall
1. Draw a line on the wall with a pencil and a ruler, to which the bend should reach. After the strip of material has been cut and placed in place, apply the glue to the wall to the line. Use a notched trowel from floor to line on the wall. Spread the remaining glue on the floor.
2. Iron the surface to remove air bubbles and to obtain the correct curve.
3. Fold the strip so that there is an even radius between the floor and the wall, heat the material and press it against the wall. The less air bubbles there will be between the material and the wall, the better the adhesion will be.
4. Inner corner: bend the excess material as shown and cut in the middle of the bend, starting at a distance of about 5 mm from the floor.
5. Press the sheet into a corner. The incision is made at a 45 degree angle to the floor. Excess material along the highlighted side of the corner is cut and formed into a groove.
6. Hot-weld the joints using the bent tip and welding cord. Press the cord into the joint, when it cools, use a crescent-shaped knife.
7. Outside Corner: Round the material around a corner and cut the material at a 45 degree angle so that approximately the same amount of material remains on both sides of the material..
8. Cut out the triangular overlap. Make a groove at half the thickness of the material in the bend using manual rustication.
9. Heat the lightly covering part. Place it on the corner and select the groove so that it fits to the bottom edge. Deepen the grooves at the joints.
10. Hot-weld the joint in the same way as on the inner corners and press down after it has cooled.
It is always recommended to hot weld joints. Hot welding makes the seams strong, watertight and hygienic. The vinyl fusion cord is made of pure PVC vinyl and melts at the same temperature as PVC vinyl. Hot welding is done after the coating material has already been glued, usually the next day.
1. The edges of the joints should be close to each other. Slots make the weld poor quality.
2. Make a groove at the joints with a slot chisel.
3. The depth of the groove should be 2/3 of the thickness of the coating material. Do not deepen the groove too deep, this is very important in order to maintain the strength of the welding cord bond.
4. The edges of the joints that could not be reached with the groove chisel must be processed with a hand chisel to remove the grooves..
5. Thoroughly vacuum all grooves.
6. Use only a professional welding machine that provides the required welding temperature. Use a welding nozzle with a diameter of 5 mm.
7. Preheat the welding machine before welding. Set the temperature to 350-400 degrees Celsius. Hot air melts both the coating material and the welding cord.
8. Cut the cord to length so that it is long enough to weld half of the seam itself..
9. Insert the cord into the welding nozzle, press the end of the cord into the groove for a second and move the welding machine back.
10. The end of the welding cord should run parallel to the floor and just above the groove.
11. Determine the correct welding speed to ensure that the cord in the groove does melt. A small edge should form on both sides of the cord
12. While the seam is still hot, cut off excess material with an arcuate knife and flat trimmer chisel in one stroke..
13. Repeat the same procedure on the other half of the strip of material, starting from the opposite wall towards the middle. At the joint of the welding cord, overlap each other by about 20 mm.
14. After the cord has completely cooled down, trim using only the arcuate knife. When processed in two stages, the cord will end up flat; if processed in one stage, the cord will be concave.