A few tips for working with wood-staining materials:
If you use linseed oil as an impregnation primer before applying topcoats, be sure to make sure that the linseed oil is dry – otherwise the top coat will not dry out either..
When working with tinted varnishes, it is necessary to mix them thoroughly in order to obtain a coating uniform in color, since the pigment part (heavier) settles to the bottom of the can.
When working with colored varnishes, the brush is dipped only with the tips and applied with continuous rubbing movements along the fibers of the wooden surfaces in order to avoid the formation of visible joints.
If nail caps are visible on the surface, then they must be covered separately with any anti-corrosion primer.
Wooden surfaces must be painted along the grain to obtain a quality decorative finish.
After applying the first layer, the paint and varnish material raises the pile of the tree even on a well-prepared surface, therefore it is necessary to treat the surface with sandpaper and remove the pile, and then apply subsequent layers.
The end ends of the boards are processed with special care in order to avoid moisture penetration through them into the wood.
It should be remembered that the minimum air temperature for painting is +5 C, and the maximum humidity is 80%. At temperatures below the minimum drying of paints on solvents is significantly slowed down.
If the paint becomes non-uniform after dilution, that is, lumps appear or it settles, it means that the wrong solvent was used for dilution.
When using paints and varnishes with an expired shelf life, it is imperative to carry out a control painting and check the drying time, since when the desiccant (hardener) evaporates, the paint dries much longer.
When working with matt varnishes, before using them, it is necessary to thoroughly mix the contents of the can, since the matting additive settles and forms a dense sediment. Whitish streaks may appear on the surface when stirring, but with further stirring they disappear.