1. How to check fit. Slide the door into the box by connecting the hinge edge to the jamb. The gap between the door and the frame on the sides and top should not exceed 2 mm and 4 mm between the bottom edge of the door and the floor. If the door is a little wide or long, then secure it and trim the bottom or side edge.
2. How to mark the hinge slots. Draw a line across the hinge end of the door 150 mm from the top edge. Attach a loop to this line and mark the bottom edge of the loop at the same end. With a thickness gauge, set at the distance between the edge of the hinge plate and the middle of the hinge, draw a line from the front of the door along its end, connecting the two previously drawn lines. Now place the thickness gauge at a distance equal to the thickness of the hinge plate and mark this distance on the face of the door. Mark the location for the next hinge 225 mm from the bottom edge of the door in the same way. If necessary, mark a place for the third loop between the first two.
3. How to make grooves. Take a beveled chisel the same width as the groove. Place the chisel with a bevel towards the deepened part, across the groove at a distance of 2 mm from its edge and hit hard with a mallet to cut the door leaf to a depth equal to the thickness of the hinge plate. Do the same on the other end of the markup. Then, place the chisel blade at the line marked on the end face, parallel to the face of the door, and cut towards it. Keep the chisel beveled down at a 45 degree angle across the groove. Hit the chisel with sharp blows. Then flip the chisel upside down, place it on the line marked on the front of the door, and select the wood towards the back of the groove. Then place the chisel vertically and cut from top to bottom from the top and bottom marks to trim the edges and clean out the indentations. Do the same with the other grooves..
Door trestles for easy work
A simple fixture called doorkeeper can be assembled from a few pieces of junk wood and cardboard. With their help, it is convenient to hold the door in place if it needs to be trimmed to size or to choose hinge nests. Goats are made from three small pieces of wood (50 by 25 mm) and two large pieces (150 by 50 mm). Two large bars 12 mm larger than the thickness of the door are nailed to a bar with a section of 50 by 25 mm. Cardboard spacers protect the door surface from damage during operation. A pair of bars (50 x 25 mm) nailed across the bottom of the assembly serves as a stand and lifts the structure off the floor. The door with its mass presses the flexible bar (50 by 25 mm), presses the large bars together, which hold the door firmly.
4. How to hang the door. Place the hinge flap in the upper slot, mark the hole for the screws with a punch or awl, and fasten the hinges with screws of the appropriate size. Attach the remaining loops in the same way. Place the door in the box, tap in wedges from below and mark the two hinges on the jamb. Mark and select the recesses for the hinge in the jamb in the same way as in the door, then, holding the door with wedges, attach the hinge leaves to the jamb with screws.
5. Marking spindle, lock and keyhole. Make a horizontal mark on the closing edge of the door at a height of one meter from the floor (the height can be varied as you like). Align the body of the lock to the drawn line and mark its bottom edge. Spread the planer strips to the thickness of the lock and draw two parallel lines perpendicular to the two horizontal lines that run along the center of the door end (insert in the figure). Set the distance in the thicknessing tool equal to the distance between the front of the lock body and the center of the spindle hole, press the thicknessing tool against the end of the door and hang the dimensions of the lock on both front sides of the door. Mark the position of the keyhole. Draw the last vertical line centered between the previously drawn vertical lines.
6. Drilling holes for the spindle and keyhole. Select a drill diameter so that the spindle can easily rotate in the hole. Place the drill on the markings (on the front of the door) and, fixing the door, drill through it. Repeat on the other side to finish the hole. The keyhole hole is drilled the same way.
7. Drilling a lock slot. Choose a drill with a diameter equal to the thickness of the lock body. Measure the length of the lock body on the drill and wrap the drill in this place with insulating tape as a drill depth stop. Drill a number of holes along the line to mark the slot for the lock body. Use a chisel and hammer to select and scrub the lock slot and trim the edges.
8. Fastening the lock case and handles. Insert the lock body into the slot and mark the dimensions of the lock on the end of the door. Reinsert the lock into the slot and mark the locations for the screws. Screw the lock with the supplied screws. Push the spindle through the square hole in the lock body, which is in front of the drilled hole on the face of the door, then put on the handle covers, the handles themselves and secure with screws.
9. Attaching the receiving pad. Close the door and mark the position of the tongue on the jamb. Open the door, hang the trim over the tongue and measure the distance from the edge of the trim to the front of the door. Transfer this distance to the jamb. Place the receiving patch over the marks and trace around it with a pencil. Make a recess with a chisel for the trim, then mark the screw hole and screw the trim to the jamb. Use a chisel to make slots for the tongue and latch. Bend the tab on the pad with a hammer, it serves as a guide for the tongue. Measure, cut and secure the door stops and trim.