- Integrated system
- Set the water flow
- We select the material of the container
- We select the shape and size of the container (s)
- We measure the length of the water supply and drainage line
- Insulation of tanks
- System installation procedure
- Additional work
- Partially integrated system
- Combined system
How can you use the force of gravity to supply water to your home? What system can work in the event of a power outage? What is needed to install a water tower for a private house and how much will such work cost? Our article will tell about this..
Integrated gravity water supply system – behind this bulky name hides a modified water tower (WB). More precisely, the main units of the tower, arranged near the consumer. In this article we will tell you how to combine such a structure with a house in whole or in part..
As can be seen from the materials of the previous article, when installing the WB there are costs that cannot be dispensed with – these are the tanks themselves, piping, fittings, insulation and everything else directly related to the storage and distribution of water. But there are also secondary (indirect) costs – for the construction of the frame or supporting walls of the tower. Here you can try to use existing structures.
Such an option for water supply to a residential building can be realizable if there is a free attic space in which there will be a storage tank. There is only one condition for the implementation of the project – the walls and floors must be strong and not have significant wear..
To equip a separate accumulator, we need:
- Capacity for water. Calculation and selection are given below.
- Supply pipeline.
- Plumbing in the premises of the house.
- Circulation pump Calpeda NC 25-40 / 180 or equivalent.
- Italtecnica PM / 5G pressure sensor or equivalent.
- Fill sensor type CM 12-3004 NB or equivalent.
- Check valve coupling BP / BP stainless AISI 304 DN 50 (60.3 mm) 2 “or similar.
- Fittings, gaskets, seals, heaters, etc..
Set the water flow
As a rule, water consumption is no more than 300-400 liters per person per day. Knowing the number of people living, we calculate the water consumption during peak periods (simultaneous use). For example, a family of 5 permanently resides in a house, then the volume of water supply V will be equal to:
- V = 400 x 5 = 2000 l or 2 tons
We select the material of the container
Considering that the temperature in the attic of the house will always be above zero, it is reasonable to consider options from food grade plastic – the tanks will not freeze. Moreover, it is supposed to use water for hygiene and, possibly, cooking. Metal oxidation products are useless in it, as are the additional costs for the purchase of stainless steel containers.
Choosing a plastic container, you get a wide range of shapes and sizes. Such tanks are produced in different shapes (cylinders, cubes and parallelepipeds) and sizes (from a 5 liter canister to a capacity of 5 tons). It remains to determine which form is right for you..
It is worth making a reservation right away – using improvised material for water supply at home (used steel barrels, homemade tanks), you take responsibility for the health of water consumers (for water quality).
We select the shape and size of the container (s)
When installing such a massive element in the attic, some rules should be followed:
- First, if possible, select an installation location where there is the greatest headroom. The best option is strictly under the ridge. This will allow you to select the highest possible tanks, which, in turn, will increase the height of the water column..
- Secondly, even if the overlap is reliable, logs should be additionally built under the tanks that distribute the load. They must be solid and reach both ends of the main (bearing) walls. The best option is directly above the load-bearing wall.
- Thirdly, it is imperative to put galvanized sheets under the tanks with edges bent in the form of a trough. This will protect the wood floor material from getting wet in the event of an accidental leak. It is also worth providing an emergency drain with a primitive valve..
1 – emergency drainage of water from the gutter; 2 – spring; 3 – “piano loop” type mount; 4 – plate valve; 5 – emergency gutter options
All of the above rules and precautions are irrelevant only if the floor is reinforced concrete.
A general condition for all containers is the mandatory presence of a “breathing valve” or just a hole with a diameter of at least the supply pipe. It is this element that equalizes the pressure in the tank to atmospheric and makes the system gravitational (open).
Note.When creating a closed (closed) system, factory hydraulic accumulators with a rubber membrane are used, which maintains constant pressure throughout the system.
Vertical 1000-5700 liters, horizontal 9000 liters. In the case of a limited attic space or a choice of location in corner points, you can use horizontal containers or “eurocube”.
We measure the length of the water supply and drainage line
These indicators are purely individual. It has been experimentally established that the optimal diameter of the supply pipe for household pumps is 50 mm. There is only one recommendation here – try to maintain a 50 mm bend diameter at the maximum length. Ideally – up to the consumption unit (mixers, toilets). This will provide the best head in the event of a power outage. We set the length of the pipes and the number of fittings by measurements. Let’s take an abstract figure of 20 meters with 10 fittings (this will be needed for the estimate).
Insulation of tanks
Despite the constant positive temperature of the attic, we recommend insulating the system as a safety net in case of downtime at home or lack of heating. Food tanks do not tolerate freezing well and may burst (crack). For insulation, you can use any material – the remnants of insulation, dusting and even rags.
System installation procedure
1. We create reinforcements in the places where the tanks are installed. This will require wooden beams with a cross section of at least 100×100 mm and a length in place. We fasten beams with walls and floors as much as possible.
2. We put galvanized sheets.
3. Install the tanks and tie them up and down with 100 mm channels.
4. Install the filling sensor at 1 / 3–1 / 4 of the column height.
5. We cut inlet and outlet using special fittings at the level of 100 mm from the bottom and top.
Note.The submersible pump float switch can be adapted for automatic water intake.
6. Connect the water supply.
Attention! A check valve must be installed in front of the pump (station).
7. We connect the water outlet and install a bypass with a circulation pump, pressure sensor and check valve.
1 – pressure sensor; 2 – check valve; 3 – circulation pump; 4 – ball valve; 5 – bend 50 mm; 6 – tanks; 7 – level of response of the filling sensor; 8 – feed; 9 – vents
8. We insulate tanks and mainline.
Any containers used for liquids must be flushed periodically. That is why all connections are made collapsible. In order to extend the period of prophylaxis, we recommend installing a coarse filter with replaceable cartridges or with the function of washing the filter element in front of the containers. With average water quality, prophylaxis is usually carried out without filters once a year, with filters once every 3 years.
Approximate estimate for the built-in WB:
Name Unit rev. Qty Unit price, rub. Total cost, rub. Capacity plastic 1000 l PCS. 2 7,000 14,000 Circulation pump Calpeda NC 25-40 / 180 or similar PCS. 1 2,500 2,500 Italtecnica PM / 5G pressure sensor or equivalent PCS. 1 500 500 Fill sensor type CM 12-3004 NB or equivalent PCS. 1 1,200 1,200 Check valve coupling BP / BP stainless steel AISI 304 Dn 50 (60.3 mm) 2 “or similar PCS. 2 450 900 Water supply pressure pipe made of polyethylene 50 GOST 18599-2001, TU 2248-016-40270293-2002 run. m 20 110 2,200 Fittings, gaskets, seals, heaters, etc.. PCS. ten one hundred 1,000 Other – – – 1,000 Total for materials 21,500 Job 10,000 Total material and work 31,500
The described system is rather a general guideline, a collection of rules, following which you can create an integrated (built-in) water tower..
Partially integrated system
This option can be used in the case when the placement of tanks in the attic space is impossible for any reason (attic floor, attic floor). Full integration saves 100% on frame or tank support frame installation. If the goal is to supply water to the house, then it is reasonable to place them as close as possible to it. When the tanks are located outside, the wall of the house can be used as one of the supports.
The savings on the frame will be 50%, but then the tanks and the pipeline will have to be carefully insulated. Partial roof modifications are also possible.
1 – entering the house; 2 – the platform rests on the wall; 3 – house wall; 4 – ground level; 5 – support foundation; 6 – check valve; 7 – caisson with a pumping station; 8 – support; 9 – diagonal rods; 10 – filling sensor; 11 – tank; 12 – insulation; 13 – air; 14 – new part of the roof
In many cases, it will be wise to use a single reservoir for the water supply of the household and the home. A detached water tower is connected to a pipeline to the house. At the entrance to the house, a bypass with a circulation pump and a pressure sensor is installed. Tanks for such a system should also be well insulated..
The main advantage of any gravitational system is its ability to work without electricity. Of course, the natural head will not withstand competition with the pump, but the water will be delivered to the consumer.