The main vertical chimney pipe is installed outside the building, connected to the heating unit by a horizontal pipe through the building wall. Nowadays, traditional brick chimneys are giving way to easier and more efficient metal chimneys. We will consider their installation in this article..
Let’s say that in your situation only an external chimney is possible. Most often, this is most important when installing a heating unit, for example, a boiler, in an already fully built room, when it is difficult to remove the pipe through the ceilings and the roof. You have installed the boiler and you need to lead the horizontal section of the pipe through the wall and then install the vertical chimney pipe. It is not recommended to make the length of the horizontal section more than a meter, as this reduces the draft in the chimney and, if necessary, must be compensated for by the length of the vertical section or in other ways. The thrust required is based on the specifications of your machine. In this case, the pipe diameter must not be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet and must comply with the recommendations of the unit manufacturer. Based on this, you also select the main vertical pipe of the external chimney. You also have to make a choice by determining which chimney system is preferable to you. It is necessary to determine whether you will be using a single or dual circuit system. The single-circuit system is simply an enamel or stainless steel pipe. The disadvantage is that such a chimney will have to be insulated to avoid condensation. Double-circuit chimneys are a pipe in a pipe, between which a special insulating and insulating material is laid. They do not require additional insulation, condensation and soot are practically not formed in them and therefore they serve for a long time and without additional maintenance. There are also solid (section of a pipe of the required length) and modular (the required length is achieved by connecting modules of the same type) chimneys. The choice is yours, now we will assume that you have already made the choice and you have proceeded directly to the installation.
There are a few things to consider when routing a pipe through a wall. In the place where the pipe passes through the wall, there should be no joints between the pipe elements, and the pipe itself must be insulated from the wall with an appropriate insulating material. If the wall is made of wood, then the pipe in the opening must be lined with non-combustible material, such as asbestos or brickwork. With a concrete or brick wall, special aprons must be used. The thickness and type of insulation is determined by which pipe you use and which heating unit is installed, often chimneys come with insulation, and in the same double-circuit, due to their structure, more gentle outer surface temperatures.
Preparing the installation of a vertical pipe. At the output end of the horizontal pipe, we mount an elbow or tee with fasteners for a vertical pipe. If we use a knee, then it is necessary to provide for the possibility of cleaning the horizontal section, possibly from the side of the boiler. If we use a tee, we block the lower outlet with a removable plug or use a tee with a revision. Depending on the location of the chimney installation, it will depend on how and to what to attach it. If it is possible to fix the vertical pipe to the wall, we use wall brackets. The distance between the brackets is 2-2.5 m. With a large weight of the vertical pipe, we install the elbow on the support.
It should be taken into account that the chimney must rise above the ridge of the roof by at least 0.5 meters and is located at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from the ridge of the roof. Often fastening to the wall is impossible along the entire length of the chimney, therefore, a system of stretch marks is used. To do this, we install clamps with ears on the vertical pipe. We attach the cables of the required length to the ears on the clamps, adding a few meters for the reserve. Galvanized steel wire rope for guy wires at least 3 mm in diameter.
At the attachment points of the guy wires, we attach eye-pins or anchors, depending on the attachment surface. We attach lanyards to the ears of the eye-pins.
Our next step is to lift and secure the vertical pipe. It is possible to mount a vertical pipe in parts, but this involves working at a height, and sometimes it is simply impossible to carry out with limited capabilities in equipment and tools. Often, it is more convenient to assemble the pipe on the ground, securing all parts with clamps, and preparing fasteners for brackets or guy wires. Fully assembled, long and bulky, the pipe is difficult to fit on the elbow. To facilitate the process, we use a hinge. It is simple enough to weld it from two suitable pieces of sheet metal, a pipe cut and a pin. It is necessary to select the type of connection of the vertical pipe with the tee. Basically, the vertical pipe is slid into the tee pipe and then secured with a pipe clamp. It is also possible to use rims at the ends of the pipes to be connected with bolt holes. Depending on the type of connection chosen, we attach the hinge to the connected end of the vertical pipe. If the pipe must be threaded, then we attach the hinge to the rim outside the pipe by welding it, or in any other reliable way. Then we raise this end of the pipe to the level of the connection and similarly attach the hinge to the knee.
When lifting on your own, you can make a spear according to the diameter of the pipe, which will greatly facilitate the lifting. In windy or rainy weather, installation is best avoided. The pipe of large diameter and length has good windage, and rain will make it very difficult to move on the roof, especially on painted and metal surfaces. In any case, it is not recommended to work at height without belay.
Then, pulling on the attached guy ropes, helping with the spear, we raise the pipe to a vertical position.
We bolt the pipe connection wherever possible. We stretch, not strongly and not completely fixing, several stretch marks for the stability of the pipe with further fastening. We unscrew the nuts of the bolts on which the hinge was attached. We knock out or cut off the bolts themselves, if they get jammed, with a grinder. We knock out the hinge and fasten the remaining bolts in the connection. We tighten the remaining stretch marks by manually adjusting the tension at the beginning, then, fixing the cable, adjusting the lanyard screws.
Installation is complete. It remains to be recalled that the connection point will need to be fastened and sealed with a suitable clamp. Also, the vertical pipe should be insulated and insulated, for example, with mineral wool, or with materials specially designed for this to avoid condensation. Paint over corroded areas with heat-resistant paint. Eliminate storage of materials or littering of the area around the pipe.