- Material preparation and required tools
- Required material
- Parts cutting and assembly
- Wall cladding
- Door manufacturing and installation
- Cutting parts for the door
- Door hardware
- Door assembly
- Door installation
- Pit size and material
- Installing a toilet in a cesspool
A classic wooden toilet is the simplest version of a wooden toilet; it looks like a mini-house located somewhere in the back of a courtyard or garden. It is made of boards and bars, which are fastened to each other with screws, and installed on a cesspool lined with brick.
Material preparation and required tools
- Dimensions of the toilet on a base with a step 1550×1140 mm.
- On the roof 1140×1200 mm.
- On the body 1000×1040 mm.
- Door leaf 600×1950 mm.
- Window 500×80 mm.
For the manufacture of this toilet, it is advisable to use softwood lumber, this wood, despite its cheapness, due to the resin content in it, is resistant to decay.
For fastening parts and accessories you will need screws 4×35-45 mm, 5×70-80 mm.
You will need hinges and handles for the door, and for installing glass in the window, wooden slats with a section of 10-15 mm are suitable.
To drill holes and tighten screws, you need a screwdriver with a bit corresponding to the head of the screw and wood drill with a diameter of 5 and 3 mm.
For woodworking – jigsaw, chisel, hacksaw or miter saw.
For marking cuts and holes – tape measure and joiner’s square.
Parts cutting and assembly
Parts must be sawn so that all sides strictly correspond to an angle of 90 degrees, if this condition is met, the structure will turn out to be durable, and it will be much easier and faster to assemble it.
Horizontal bars are cut for the base:
- 1400x100x50 mm = 2 pieces.
- 440x150x50 mm = 2 pieces.
Holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled according to the marking.
Then you need to cut vertical bars, they serve to fasten the horizontal parts:
- 250x50x50 mm = 4 pieces.
The extreme base frames are assembled and fastened with 5×95 mm screws to the vertical bars along the previously drilled holes.
We make a block of 910x100x50 mm, this will be the middle beam for screwing to it in the next stage of the steps.
The following parts are front and rear crossbars:
- Front 20x100x1000 mm.
- Rear 50x100x900 mm.
We expose the extreme bases according to the markings as in the figure below, put the middle beam exactly in the middle and fasten all the indicated parts with 5×95 mm screws.
Then we make parts for the floor and base steps:
- 1040x40x150 mm = 3 pieces.
- 1000x40x150 mm = 7 pieces.
- 1000x40x100 mm = 1 piece.
We mark and drill holes with a diameter of 5 mm in them.
We lay the parts according to the markings, as in the picture below, and fasten with screws along the drilled holes.
We cut out the sockets for attaching the frame racks and for the latrine
We make additional stiffening ribs from a board with a thickness of 50 mm and fasten them with screws to the bottom of the step:
- 150x50x490 mm = 2 pieces.
Cooking bars for the frame crate:
- 50x50x2200 mm = 2 pieces.
- 50x50x2100 mm = 2 pieces.
- 50x50x2150 mm = 1 piece.
- 50x50x900 mm = 2 pieces.
- 50x50x540 mm = 1 piece.
Bars of 2200 mm are inserted into the sawn sockets in the middle of the lower frame, a bar of 2150 mm is placed in the nest sawn between them, in the future it will serve as a crate and a frame for the door, details of 2100 mm are attached to the back of the frame.
Bars 900 mm serve to fasten the upper part of the frame, and 540 mm part – for the upper part of the frame of the future door and window.
All parts are fastened with screws 5×95 mm.
For sheathing of the frame, a 20×110 mm board with a tongue and groove (lining) is used.
After cutting, holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled in the details according to the marking, otherwise the boards in the places where the screws are screwed in will crack, which will lead to insufficient strength of the entire structure and a loss of appearance.
- 20x100x1000 mm = 34 pieces.
- 20x100x390 mm = 20 pieces.
The casing planks, through pre-drilled holes, are attached to the bars of the casing with screws 3.5×40-50 mm, it is better to use yellow (galvanized) screws, since they are not susceptible to corrosion and do not leave dark streaks on the wood in a humid environment.
On the front and rear walls of the frame, the sheathing boards are placed flush with the bars, and on the side walls with indents of 20 millimeters, on both sides.
The front sheathing parts are attached to the uprights, at the junctions of the boards to the extreme right and middle uprights of the frame, indents of 20 mm are made, forming a rebate, these bar-uprights simultaneously perform the function of both the frame and the box for the door leaf.
The upper finishing parts of the walls can be made from either 100 mm split boards or from one 200 mm wide board.
Side 20x200x100x1000 mm = 2 pieces.
Front part 20x200x1000 mm, in it you need to cut an opening of 500×80 mm for the future window.
Pi correct assembly in the finished case will be a built-in door frame and a rebated window.
Roof parts are made of 20 mm thick tongue-and-groove boards:
- 20х1200х150 mm = 6 pieces.
- 20х1200х120 mm = 2 pieces.
Overhangs of roof boards relative to the body from the front and rear sides protrude 100 mm each, from the sides 50 mm.
The boards are attached to the frame with screws 3.5×50-60 mm, the upper and lower edges of the roof are attached to the horizontal upper bars of the frame, the extreme side boards are additionally attached to the sides of the case.
Glass with a size of 540×120 mm is installed in the fold of the frame, glued to the sealant and attached to the window with wooden slats and nails.
Door manufacturing and installation
The door is made of grooved boards with a thickness of 20 mm, the width of the board including the ridge is 110 mm, in the assembly the useful width of the part will be 100 mm.
Cutting parts for the door
- Planks for canvas 1940×110 mm = 6 pieces.
- Lathing 520×100 mm = 2 pcs. and 1500×100 mm = 1 piece.
Holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled in the details of the canvas according to the marking
Overhead canopy hinges are suitable to install the door, door handles and an internal lock are also needed.
It is necessary to collect the canvas on an even base, according to the scheme below, a crate is set, the boards of the canvas are placed on top, observing the indents.
From the top and bottom of the canvas there should be indents of 150 mm, from the sides of 25 and 55 mm.
Along the holes, the canvas with the lathing is fastened with screws, since the thickness of the canvas and the lathing in total is 40 mm, the screws should not be longer than 35 mm.
The door leaf is installed in a box with 5 mm gaps from the sides and top, from below between the floor and the door there must be a gap of 15 mm.
The canopy hinges are attached with screws to the box and the canvas, it is imperative to fasten the hinges to the canvas in the places of the crate.
The location of the cesspool without a bottom, depending on the density of the soil, is allowed at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundations of the buildings, with a shallow pit depth and rare use of the toilet for its intended purpose, these requirements can be reduced.
Pit size and material
The size of the pit should be 1000×1000 mm wide, 1500 mm deep.
Clay bricks (red) are recommended as they are the most resistant to moisture compared to other types of bricks.
The brick is placed on a cement-sand mortar in the ratio of cement to sand 1: 3, upon completion of the masonry for three days, periodically watered with water until the mortar is completely solidified.
The top row of bricks should be 100 mm above the ground, so that rain and melted snow does not get into the pit.
The last row of masonry extends from 1000 to 1440 mm and serves as the foundation for the toilet.
Installing a toilet in a cesspool
Before installation, a layer of tile glue can be applied to the top row of bricks, this will give the structure stability and prevent a draft from below.
The toilet is installed on a cesspool and is attached to it with screws on brick or concrete (dowels).
It is recommended to paint the toilet both outside and inside, this will significantly extend its service life.
Around the pit, you need to pour earth (with a tubercle) along the edges of the brick to drain water.