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How to make a frame of a metal interlevel staircase

This WordPress post outlines the process of creating a frame of a metal interlevel staircase. It explains in detail the best methods for properly assembling the frame of the staircase. It also highlights the advantages of using metal interlevel stairs: their stability, durability, and resistance to corrosion. Moreover, they offer flexibility when customizing the relevant parts, such as stunning decorative rods that will further enhance the look and feel of the staircase. The post also provides useful tips to keep the structure of the staircase safe and secure, ensuring a safe and practical outcome.

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How to make a frame of a metal interlevel staircase at home and what materials and equipment are required for this, read this article..

How to make a frame of a metal interlevel staircase

Of course, every owner who decides to equip an attic or build a cottage, on two or more levels, has the right to decide what suits him better financially – buying a prefabricated staircase, ordering a staircase from some specialized company or making it yourself. There are pros and cons everywhere.

So, when buying a ready-made universal kit, there is a risk of not getting into steps along the height of the opening, which is fraught with injuries for home and guests. Just a couple – three centimeters of the difference from the last step to the exit platform, and that’s all – bumps, bruises, fractures … Moreover, the price of such a kit can be impressive and can reach $ 2,000!

No less, and more often – more expensive is the purchase of a ladder in a specialized company. Yes, in this case, adjusting the steps to the level, most likely, everything will be in order. Surely, there will be an original design and a creative approach, but the speed of your order will depend on the workload of the company’s specialists and it may turn out that the execution of your order with an advance payment made will take a long time. And there are also one-day firms …

“If you want to do something well, take it and do it yourself!” – this paraphrased expression is the best suited to the proposed method of making an interlevel staircase. At the lowest cost (no more than $ 400), you can make the stairs at your own discretion and at the pace that you can handle. What do you need for this? First of all, choose the material and decide exactly on the project.

Selection of material for a metal frame

The most profitable construction in terms of material costs can be considered a wooden staircase on a metal frame with one bowstring and welded stringers. Obviously, in this case, you do not need to spend money on two bowstrings, as would be required for a ladder with a wooden frame. There is no need for risers that can be ignored, as the metal frame always looks great in any interior. And there is no need for additional fastening of the ladder, since, with the correct selection of material, it can carry a very heavy load.

So, in order to make the metal frame of the stairs, which will be installed in the opening, the preparation of which was described in the previous article, you will need three types of rolled metal:

  • Electric-welded square steel pipe 80 x 80 mm – 6 m;
  • Electric-welded rectangular pipe 80 x 45 mm – 6 m;
  • Square pipe 20 x 20 mm – 60 m.

The purpose of rolled metal is shown in Table 1.

Rental name Quantity (p / m) Installation location Total (p / m)
Welded square pipe 80 x 80 mm 3 Bowstring 3
Welded square pipe 80 x 80 mm 1.5 Winder frame 4.5
Welded square pipe 80 x 80 mm 1.5 Kosoura 6
Welded pipe 80 x 45 mm 2,3 Winder frame 2,3
Welded pipe 80 x 45 mm 3.7 Fencing posts 6
Square tube 20 x 20 mm 1.5 Winder frame 1.5
Square tube 20 x 20 mm 2.7 x 9 Frame of steps “duck step” 25.8
Square tube 20 x 20 mm 25 Railings and balusters 50.8
Square tube 20 x 20 mm 9.2 Fences and railings 60

In addition, the following support materials are required:

  • Cutting discs diameter 125 mm thickness 1.6 mm – 12 pcs .;
  • Grinding discs, diameter 125 mm – 3 pcs .;
  • DC welding electrodes diameter 3.2 mm – 5 kg;
  • DC welding electrodes diameter 1.6 mm – 1 kg;
  • Rust converter – 2 L;
  • White – spirit – 1 l;
  • Metal primer – 2 l.

And equipment:

  • Welding inverter;
  • Angle grinder (grinder) with a capacity of at least 800 W;
  • Drill;
  • Safety glasses, transparent;
  • Welding mask;
  • Pencil, tape measure, square;
  • Welding table;
  • Clamp clamping adjustable from 0 to 800 mm;
  • Vice;
  • Primer and transducer brushes;
  • Rags for metal degreasing;
  • Welder’s gloves and leggings.

All of the above metal can be replaced with similar stainless steel rolled products. In this case, electrodes are also needed for welding stainless steel structures. And there will be no need for anti-corrosion treatment. However, the price of stainless steel is so high that the cost of a ladder will roughly quadruple!

Selection of welding equipment

Manual arc welding of metals is not an easy task. The specialty of a welder requires a lot of practical experience and comprehension of the theoretical foundations of welding. But with the advent of hand-held inverters, things have become much easier. These machines solve almost all welder’s problems in one fell swoop. And these problems are as follows:

Arc ignition

Conventional welding transformers maintain the output voltage, which directly depends on the input voltage, and at a low voltage in the network, it becomes unrealistic to ignite the arc – the electrode “sticks”, and when current is added, on the contrary, the metal starts to burn out. The inverters are designed in such a way that the output voltage does not depend on the input voltage, and the set current is maintained regardless of the voltage in the network. All modern inverters are equipped with systems from sticking electrodes and light arc ignition.

Burnt or underburned metal during welding

These problems are primarily due to the fact that it is difficult to maintain a fixed value of the welding current in conventional welding machines. It is always changeable and directly depends on the mains voltage. In welding inverters, the current value is set by setting the potentiometer to a certain position in accordance with the welding current scale. When the metal is burned out, the weld is weakened, cavities and through holes appear in the parts to be welded. If underburned, the seam is also weakened, and the parts to be welded can easily come apart.

Holding the arc and moving the electrode

This problem presents the most serious challenge for the novice welder. After the arc ignites, you need to give the electrode a tilt of about 15 ° and begin to move it relative to the joint of the parts to be welded. Moreover, the direction of movement and inclination of the electrode can be of two types – the inclination towards the movement of the electrode and in the opposite direction. Both of these methods of moving the electrode are correct, but the quality and appearance of the weld will vary slightly. Simultaneously with the longitudinal movement of the electrode, it is necessary to move it in the transverse direction as it burns. The length of the arc depends on this, which can be short or long. All main types of electrodes are designed for short arc welding, that is, you need to constantly feed the electrode in the transverse direction so that the distance to the surfaces to be welded is about two electrode diameters. Welding inverters, having the ability to hold a given current, as well as because this current is constant, are not very critical to the length of the arc, and the quality of the seam depends little on what arc was used to work.

Welding of parts in various spatial positions and directions of electrode movement

When welding parts that cannot be laid on a horizontal surface, it is important to understand that gravity acts equally on a drop of water and on a drop of molten metal. And the main thing when welding vertical or overhead seams is to stop in time and wait until the drop of metal inside the seam cools down a little, and immediately ignite the arc nearby, thus moving higher and higher to the end of the seam. This method of welding is called tack welding. And it is not difficult to master it again, working with an inverter.

Today, both the external appearance and the internal filling of any inverter are practically the same for all manufacturers. It doesn’t make sense for a home craftsman to buy professional equipment. This equipment, of course, is stable in operation, its performance does not depend on the magnitude of the mains voltage, and various additional devices can be connected to them, like a torch for argon-arc welding, but it is very expensive. So, the most famous Finnish inverters cost from $ 800!

However, there are models for home use. That is, such devices cannot be cooked around the clock, their output parameters are relatively dependent on the mains voltage, but in general they have proven themselves perfectly in work. Photo 1 shows a typical example of such an inverter. This device, at an average cost of $ 200, has built-in functions for arc control, lightweight ignition, blocking when the electrode sticks.

Experience shows that welding inverters of this kind can be trusted, and even if the machine fails after at least one ladder has been welded to it, it will already pay for itself.

But in addition to choosing the welding machine itself, you need to choose the right electrodes and learn how to set the welding current.

Welding current parameters and required electrodes

Experience shows that it is better to use imported welding electrodes to work with such inexpensive inverters. Photo 2 shows the electrodes of the Swedish concern ESAB OK 46.30

These electrodes are designed for the most inexperienced welder. They ignite very well, they can be cooked in any direction. Even if a burnout occurs, the hole can be easily tightened with some skill..

The value of the welding current directly depends on the thickness of the welded metal. Photo 3 shows the inverter welding current scale. The photo shows a current of 65 A. If you believe the manufacturer’s marks on the scale, then with this current you need to cook the metal using electrodes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, but in fact, such a current is needed for high-quality welding of metal 3 mm thick with electrodes with a diameter of 3.2 mm. But if you follow the recommended current value, then for a 3.2 mm electrode it will start from 90 A, but for a 3 mm thick metal this will be a lot and the metal will be burned out..

In general, there is a rule for setting the welding current. It is necessary to set the current average for a given diameter of the electrode, then briefly ignite the arc on the test workpiece. If the deposited drop of metal is almost round, then the current is small, if the drop is flat, and there are a lot of stuck splashes around it, then the current is too large, but if the drop is slightly convex and the adjacent surface is clean, then the current is what you need – you can cook!

After familiarizing yourself with the short course of the welder, you can proceed to the practical part. But before you take on the inverter holder yourself, it is worth remembering several safety rules for welding:

  • Do not work indoors. Provide good ventilation, and it is best to try to do as much work as possible outdoors;
  • The arc emits harsh ultraviolet radiation. Wear long sleeves;
  • Pants should be pulled over the shoes. A drop of molten metal in a shoe can cause severe burns;
  • Always use a protective mask. You cannot look at the arc – corneal burn! Now there are comfortable masks with chameleon glass. While the arc does not burn, the glass is transparent, but as soon as it lights up, the glass darkens with lightning speed;
  • Do not use normal gloves. Always use heavy duty suede welding leggings. Only they can be guaranteed to protect against burns;
  • Do not grasp the electrode with your bare hands! Danger of electric shock!

Winder frame

In the example under consideration, the staircase, which will be inscribed into the prepared opening, consists of two parts: a frame of two winder steps and a bowstring with welded on braids and step frames in a “duck step”, on which wooden steps of the corresponding shape will be installed on top.

First you need to make the frame of the winder steps. It is shown in photo 4. As you can see, this is a complex knot that can be divided into several parts. The number 1 marks the front rack of the frame. It is welded from a pipe 80×80 mm. The end walls of this part are welded with plugs, and support pads are welded to the legs, in which holes are drilled for mounting anchor bolts.

Number 2 in the photo shows the frame of the upper winder. It consists of 5 parts welded to the A-pillar. As you can see, pipes with a section of 80×45 mm and 20×20 mm were used for this frame. Moreover, the semicircular part is made of a straight pipe. If you do not have pipe bending equipment at your disposal, then you can make this part by cutting a straight pipe of appropriate length from three sides with a step of 2–2.5 cm. After that it is easy to bend it and give the required bending radius, and weld the resulting slots with an electrode with a diameter of 2 mm welding current 45 A.

Under the number 3 is the frame of the first winder. It consists of four parts. The count of all other steps depends on the level of this step. In this example, the height of the first step of the frame is taken equal to 18 cm. Of these, 2 cm will be spent on deepening the racks into the existing coating, and then another 4 cm of thickness of the wooden step will be added to the remaining 16 cm. And thus, the net level of the first step will reach 20 cm above the floor level. Accordingly, the second step should reach a level of 20 cm from the first, and the height of the front frame rack (item 1) will be 38 cm.

All knots are welded one by one, starting from the front frame, then they are compiled on a flat table and made with tacks. After that, the position of the entire frame as a whole is adjusted, and all joints are completely scalded.

Frame of a metal ladder on one string

The next stage of work on the construction of a metal interlevel staircase is welding of a straight march with stringers and its installation on site. This work will require a square welded pipe 80 x 80 mm. Before proceeding with the installation of the stringers, you need to cut the pipe that will work as a bowstring in place. To do this, you need to free access to the upper steel beam of the opening, and fix the frame of the winder steps on the floor of the lower level using anchors. Photo 5 shows the upper beam prepared for measurement and installation..

After these works, you need to measure the distance from the top of the beam to the top of the winder’s frame, taking into account the fact that it is necessary to overlap it from the side of the bowstring (photo 6).

This distance must be set aside on a workpiece from a square tube of 80 x 80 mm of suitable length. Then you need to measure the distance from the bottom edge of the upper beam to the bottom point of the winder’s frame. Put it aside on the pipe, having previously marked the departure angle, which can be measured with any goniometric tool, from the top point of contact of the beam and the future bowstring.

After all the points have been marked on the bowstring blank, you need to cut the pipe with a grinder and try it on in place, correcting it if necessary. Photo 7 shows where the upper edge of the bowstring touches the beam before it is welded.

The entire bowstring with stringers installed on the frame of the winder steps is shown in photo 8. As you can see in the photo, stringers are nothing more than segments of the same square pipe from which the bowstring itself is made, welded to it at right angles with a step equal to the height of the steps. In this case, it is 20 cm.The top of the stringers is cut in such a way that when the bowstring is installed in the opening, horizontal platforms are obtained, onto which the step frames will be welded after.

Frame of steps “in a duck step”

Ladders with a slope of more than 40 ° are extremely inconvenient for walking on them. To eliminate this disadvantage, the steps are made in a special, paddle-shaped form and installed crosswise. Thus, no matter how steep the stairs come out, the tread will always be of sufficient width so that it is convenient to put your foot not only on the rise, but also on the descent. The only drawback of such ladders is that you need to waddle along them, like a duck. Hence the name of the stairs – “duck step”.

Thus, given that the slope of the ladder in this example is 47 °, the “duck step” option is the best suited to solving the problem of the convenience of the ladder for descent and ascent. But the frames of such steps are much more complicated than ordinary straight ones. To simplify the task, you can make frames without rounding, and round off only the wooden steps themselves, which will be installed on top of the metal ones..

The material for the frame is a square tube with a cross section of 20 x 20 mm. In total, in this case, you need to weld 9 step frames. They are made separately, and then welded on the stringers in place.

Before starting work, you need to complete a drawing or sketch, which indicates the dimensions of the parts. It is enough to make it by hand on any piece of paper and always have it in front of your eyes (photo 9).

The material needs to be cut according to the dimensions in the drawing. You can cut it into all the steps at once, or you can cut it into one or two, so that in case of an error you do not spoil a lot of metal at once. In industrial conditions, hydraulic guillotine shears are used for cutting. At home, only a grinder is available. To make it easier to cut corners, you can purchase a universal jig for the grinder, which exactly maintains the given angles. Photo 10 shows blanks cut by a grinder for two steps.

Further, the details of the frame must be prepared for welding. That is, collect them on a flat, flat surface and align them with a square. This process is shown in photo 11. After the parts are fitted to one another, they need to be pressed down from above with blanks from the other step so that they do not come apart when they are welded (photo 12). A template can be made for this purpose. On a piece of OSB, for example, draw a step in full size and tighten screws at the corners and centers of the outer lines. In the resulting improvised conductor, you need to fill the frame parts and calmly grab them. But for the nine steps that need to be welded in this example, you can do without a conductor.

After the parts of the frame, prepared for welding, are pressed, you can grab them in several places. Then you need to again check the geometry of the frame of the step with a square, if necessary, correct something and completely weld the joints on one and the other side. Photo 13 shows the frame, welded on one side at the joints, and in photo 14 – the already completely welded frame.

So that the seams do not interfere with the installation of the wooden step, they need to be sanded. It is dangerous to use a conventional cutting disc for this! You need to purchase a turning disk. It is much thicker than the cut-off and has a convex shape, which gives it greater strength. Photo 15 shows such a disc, and photo 16 shows a step prepared for grinding the seams. In order not to hold the frame with your hands, you need to fix it on the table with a clamp. After sanding, the frame should look as shown in photo 17.

After sanding, the frames must be treated against corrosion and primed..

Anti-corrosion treatment of metal structures

Despite the fact that now almost all paints for metal are loudly positioned as “applied directly over rust”, you do not need to trust this advertising move. The rust that remains under the paint layer does not transform into a sulfate protective layer, but remains rust. As a result, the rustproof paintwork will not last even three years. Therefore, it is better to perform anti-corrosion treatment of metal structures..

This procedure consists of three parts: degreasing, rust remover and priming. Degreasing is done with a rag, abundantly moistened with solvent. For this purpose, you can use gasoline “Galosha”, white spirit, acetone, solvent and any other organic solvent.

Further, a rust converter is abundantly applied to the surface of the degreased metal. This is best done with a brush, and the transducer itself is poured into a cuvette, as shown in photo 18.

After the rust converter reacts on the metal surface, it will be covered with a protective sulfate layer, on top of which a primer layer can be applied..

The primer, as a rule, is used in the GF – 21 brand of brown or gray color. It can be applied with a brush or spray. Apply one layer, which is allowed to dry well for 24 hours. Photo 19 shows the finished step frames after priming..

Conclusion

When deciding on the independent production of an interlevel staircase, you need to be aware that you cannot fit all the experience and prevent all mistakes in one article. Experience is accumulated only by practice. Therefore, some mistakes will be inevitable, but after going through this stage and making your own metal staircase frame, we can assume that you have mastered the basics of welding. The frame shown in the example was made completely independently using the equipment mentioned in the article.

But after the bowstring with stringers and the frame of the winder steps are ready, you can proceed with the installation of the step frames on the bowstring, making wooden steps, railings and stair rails. Read about all this in the next article..

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Comments: 2
  1. Clara Kelly

    Could you please provide instructions or a guide on how to construct a metal interlevel staircase frame? I am interested in creating one, but I am unsure of the proper steps and materials needed. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

    Reply
    1. Sophia Greene

      To construct a metal interlevel staircase frame, you will need some basic materials and follow certain steps:

      1. Measure and plan: Determine the length, width, and height of your desired staircase. Take accurate measurements to ensure a precise fit.

      2. Gather materials: Purchase metal angle iron, flat iron, and square tubing appropriate for your staircase’s size and load-bearing requirements. Consider using stainless steel or galvanized metal for durability and resistance to corrosion.

      3. Cut and shape the pieces: Use a metal cutting saw or grinder to trim the angle iron, flat iron, and square tubing according to your measurements. Ensure all pieces fit together securely and at the desired angles.

      4. Weld or bolt the frame together: If you have welding equipment and skills, you can weld the pieces together at the joints. Alternatively, you can use industrial-grade bolts and nuts to secure the frame tightly.

      5. Add support brackets: Install additional support brackets beneath the staircase frame at appropriate intervals for added stability and strength. Ensure they are securely attached to the frame and the floor or wall as needed.

      6. Install stair treads: Depending on your design preference, attach metal or wood stair treads securely to the frame using screws or bolts. Make sure they are evenly spaced for safe and comfortable climbing.

      7. Finish and paint: Sand any rough edges or sharp corners on the metal frame. Apply a suitable paint or finish to protect against rust and enhance the aesthetic appeal.

      Remember to wear appropriate safety gear, such as gloves and protective eyewear, when cutting and welding metal. Ensure your design meets local building codes and consult a professional if needed. With proper preparation and execution, you can create a sturdy and visually appealing metal interlevel staircase frame.

      Reply
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