Installation of decking made of wood-polymer composite

The article provides a detailed step-by-step master class on the installation of a decking made of wood-polymer composite. You will learn how to properly plan the base, set anchor points and fix the joists in different cases. You will also find prices for WPC decking.

In the previous article, we talked about products made of wood-polymer composite (WPC), which is sometimes called “liquid wood”, and about the features of choosing panels for a terrace. This article will tell you how to correctly apply the selected type of decking..

General rules

In relation to the device of an open terrace, there are three rules that you need to know before purchasing material. This will save tons of time, energy and money..

1. Use polymer logs. The most popular type of delusion is to use wooden logs, having previously treated them with an antiseptic. This is fraught with big problems after a few years of operation:

• The lag material must be stronger than the coating material. By installing logs from available conifers, you run the risk of getting an unusable terrace after a while, despite the fact that the covering board itself will be in excellent condition. Especially if the terrace is open.
• Wooden logs are susceptible to weathering. This can deform even a correctly laid plane even before the onset of lag wear. Moisture can accumulate at the attachment points, along the cleats and destroy the landing sites of self-tapping screws.
• Polymer products are usually flat. Timber has section defects that create uneven stress along the plane and uneven distribution of the load along the attachment points.
• Polymer lags do not need selection or rejection and have the same quality and properties throughout the entire product.

2. If it turns out that it is necessary to use wood for logs, choose strong, factory-processed species. The ideal option in these conditions is bog oak (60×60 timber). Installation on metal joists is allowed.

3. Use complex systems from one company. It is much easier and more reliable to purchase all components that have been tested to be compatible than to do on-site fittings. A large WPC plant has its own testing facilities and offers a board, clamps, joists, plugs, end, corner intermediate strips, created for joint installation.

So, if these conditions are met, you can proceed directly to the installation.

WPC terrace installation technology

Since the terrace in each case will be purely individual – the size, shape, direction of the board, the relationship with the walls – we will give general step-by-step instructions, following which you can do the work yourself.

Terrace (“deck”) – an open area that requires mandatory drainage. It can be set both by the base and by the lags. Suitable base material:

1. Asphalt, paving slabs (any hard road surface).
2. Concrete slab.
3. Cement screed 50 mm or more.
4. Compacted gravel / crushed stone.

Attention! Do not build a terrace on the ground. It is susceptible to deformation under load from wetting. Arrange a crushed stone / gravel bed or base plates on the ground.

Another fundamental difference between all decks is the presence or absence of technological gaps between the boards. If they are, then the slope of the base must be set – water will be diverted to it. If they are not there, then the slope can be set both by the base and by adjusting the lag supports – the water will leave along the solid flooring.

1. Determine the “zero level” – the point from which the deck slope will be set (if any). The plane of the deck should come to this point perfectly evenly – usually this is the level of the floor when you exit to the terrace.

2. Determine the slope of the base. If the foundation is yet to be created, set a slope of 1-2 ° along the entire plane along the board. This will simplify further installation of the lag. If the base is stable and cannot be tilted, use special support legs-jacks, with which you can adjust the installation level.

3. Next, you should measure, as well as calculate the angles and sides of the future plane, apply the appropriate marks on the base, outline the contour of the deck. It is advisable to work with a drawing or sketch..

4. If there are bulges or concavities of the wall, they must be compensated by cutting the first board. If this is not possible (the differences exceed the width of the board), determine the location of the first whole board – tangent to the bends – it will be the starting.

5. Divide the deck space into 400 mm squares – these will be the log axes. Axis Intersections – Anchor Points.

Attention! The step of the two extreme lags should be less than the average.

6. The way the lag supports are arranged can vary significantly depending on the base.

We recommend installing plastic adjustable feet from the system kit on a firm, level base without a slope.

If the base is dense soil, lay geotextiles on it, and on the support points, install concrete tiles 300x300x30 mm or concreted mini-foundations in place.

With a predetermined slope of the base (screed), the logs can be attached to it with dowels. Installation depth – not less than the thickness of the log.

If the concrete or asphalt base is hard, solid, but uneven, special adjustable braces can be used. Use this method only as a last resort, since fastening the lag on the side is undesirable.

When arranging a terrace on pre-installed piles or pillars, align (cut) them along the hydro level and lay waterproofing.

The result of the work on the arrangement of the supports should be a uniform (with a step of 400 mm) a network of adjustable anchor points. If the base permits, apply adhesive to the heel of the support to eliminate possible play..

7. Check the level of all support points and, if necessary, set the slope by adjusting.

8. Cut the logs to size so that they extend beyond the edge of the perimeter. Double logs should be installed around the perimeter.

Attention! When pairing wooden logs, use wood glue and a horizontal bond. Splicing the board with a gap of joints.

9. Lay out the joists along the supports, observing the rule: the joints should not be on the same line. Stretch the cords to the level of the deck.

10. After checking the level accuracy, fix the logs on the support points:

• in the case of adjustable supports – inventory fasteners;
• on concrete tiles – with corners to the base;
• on the brackets – with self-tapping screws after fitting to the cord;
• on piles or on a screed – with dowels or anchors to the base.

Video: installation of a terrace board on a soil base

11. Mount the terrace board according to the instructions, observing the required gap. The manufacturer indicates the dimensions of the gaps and tolerances in the accompanying documentation for each product..

12. If necessary, install framing elements – plinth, corner or decorative panel along the perimeter and abutments.

Installation of WPC decking on video

Prices for a board made of wood-polymer composite for a terrace

Name	Manufacturer	Specifications	Price at eat2
“Lignatek Standard”	Russia	2800x160x33, suture, PE	21.5
SaveWood ULMUS	Russia	6000х148х25, seamless, PVC	22
Terradeck Eco	Russia	3500x185x24, seamless, PE	23
DeckRa	Russia	6000x140x30, suture, PE	26
ECODECK	Russia	4000х163х24, suture, PE	28
Mixwood	Russia	2200x140x25, seamless, PVC	29
Goodeck	Russia	580х146х23, seam, PVC	thirty
“Eternal Tree Standard”	Russia	3000х150х25, seam, PVC	32.5
CM Decking	Sweden	3000х135х25, seamless, PE	33
Ecotech	Russia	3000х140х22, seamless, PVC	33.5
Holzhof	Czech Republic	4000х145х25, seamless, PVC	37.5

Regardless of the supplier, you can be sure that the board will last at least 25 years. In addition, a contribution will be made to the common good – the disposal of waste for the benefit of man. Whatever the terrace of your dreams, WPC board is the best solution today.