- Sauna space organization
- We use walls and partitions
- Sauna decoration and furniture
- Electrical equipment
- Calculating the power of the sauna heater
- a door
The article will tell you about how to arrange a mini-bath in a city apartment. You will learn how to calculate the correct size and choose a place for your sauna. The article contains a general step-by-step assembly guide, as well as an approximate estimate for materials for an apartment bath.
Even 15 years ago, building a bathhouse at home was an unthinkable idea. There was no equipment on sale for a compact and safe heating cabin. Today we have such an opportunity, moreover, many companies are engaged in the supply of components and installation of turnkey compact apartment baths.
Sauna space organization
The main problem of a city apartment is the lack of space, which makes it efficient to use every square centimeter. Home bath is difficult because it combines the following aggressive (for the material) factors:
- High air temperature.
- Changes in air temperature.
- High humidity.
- High mains voltage (current consumption).
The simplest and safest solution here is a sauna – it does not require excessive air humidification, and its electrical equipment is compact. Such a structure can be arranged on an area of 1 m2, however, a seated thermocabin is not suitable for good rest and relaxation. Therefore, we recommend providing a sunbed.
In order to save space, it is logical to design a sauna from the “one person at a time” basis. The width of the lounger is 700 mm on average. Passage – 500 mm, length – 2000-2200 mm. In this case, sufficient internal space will provide an area of 2200×1200 mm. An electric oven for an apartment sauna is rarely wider than 400 mm, so it can be easily installed in the far corner of the aisle. With this arrangement, 3-4 people can be present in the steam room, sitting on a lounger.
The area of the walls is: (1.2 + 2.2) x 2 x 2 = 14.4 minus the door 0.6 x 1.8 = 13.3 m2.
The ceiling area is: 1.2 x 2.2 = 2.64 m2.
Total area for finishing (including insulation and foil): 13.3 + 2.64 = 15.94, we take 16 m2.
The consumption of timber for the frame at a step of 500 mm: 0.5 x 3 = 1.5 linear. m by 1 m2.
Number of beams: 16 x 1.5 = 24 linear m, we accept 30 linear meters. m.
The amount of insulation (50 mm per wall area): 0.05 x 16 = 0.8 m3.
We use walls and partitions
Frame structures are best suited when you need to install a partition in an apartment. Block walls are reliable, but they require “dirty and hard” work – lifting, mortar, plastering. A smart economy in this case is using the corner formed by the two existing walls.
Preparation of concrete or brick walls consists in their complete cleaning and antiseptic disinfecting treatment. The walls should be thoroughly dried before covering with further layers. A wooden frame made of antiseptic 50×50 mm timber is attached to the walls and ceiling in such a way that a lining will be vertically sewn onto it. That is, the edges of the frame should be predominantly horizontal. Rib step – 550–600 mm across the width of the insulation slab.
The insulation plates themselves can be installed in the cells with tile adhesive, but it is best to secure them with dowel-umbrellas. The frame of independent partitions is also assembled from a bar using 90 ° galvanized corners. Foil is nailed on the insulation with a stapler – to reflect heat.
Sauna decoration and furniture
Traditionally, the walls and ceiling are trimmed with wood. Besides being 100% environmentally friendly, it helps to retain heat, unlike ceramic materials. The lining or board for finishing should be hardwood – they do not emit resin when heated. The best option is cedar or larch.
It is necessary to fasten the lining to the frame through the clamps – constant heating / cooling cycles and saturation with moisture / drying increase the natural mobility of the tree. Rigid thru fasteners can split the board over time and are not aesthetically pleasing. Hidden (invisible) cleat allows it to move freely without creating excessive stress.
The shelves should be made of the same material as the floors. It will be cheaper and easier than combining different woods. Shelf frame – bar 50×50 of oak, larch or birch.
Steam room floors can be wooden or tiled with ceramic tiles.
Attention! When choosing a tile as a flooring, please note that it must be laid before installing the wall frame.
Wood for the sauna floor – the same larch or cedar in the form of a floor board with a tongue-and-groove system.
Calculating the power of the sauna heater
There are many hearth solutions for a home sauna. Its power and performance depends only on one factor – the area of the steam room *. Here you must follow the rule:
220 V home power grids allow you to supply loads up to 6 kW.
This power is enough to warm up 8 m3 air or 0.75 kW per 1 m3 air. That is, a stove with a maximum power of 6 kW is suitable for a 2x2x2 m sauna.In our case, the air volume is 2.2 x 1.2 x 2 = 5.28, we take 5.5 m3.
The required furnace power is 0.75 x 5.5 = 4.125 kW. It is not recommended to operate devices at maximum power, therefore, it is worth providing a margin of up to 1 kW. As a result, we need a 5 kW sauna stove..
* It is assumed that the steam room is assembled and operated according to the rules and does not have heat leaks.
One, but very important requirement is imposed on luminaires – heat-resistant and hermetically sealed design. Usually in stores they are labeled as lamps for a sauna. Please note that the lamp and lamp have the ability to smoothly adjust the intensity of light – this will give more comfort when using. Provide additional protection in the form of a wooden grate to avoid accidental damage to the luminaire, for example, when cleaning.
Copper wiring is used in home networks – it is more efficient and space-saving compared to aluminum. The main rule regarding high-load networks:
1 mm2 copper wire passes 2.2 kW of current.
In our case, to power the furnace, a cable with a cross section of 5 / 2.2 = 2.27 is required, we take 2.5 mm2. Of course, this section of the line must have its own automatic fuse. And one more rule that applies to saunas and baths:
Use heat-resistant (heat-resistant) cable for all electrical appliances.
Otherwise, an ordinary cable, if it does not start to melt, will imperceptibly emit harmful substances, and instead of benefit, the sauna will result in harm to health. The temperature under the ceiling can reach 160 ° C.
If the question of beauty and elegance is not worth it, you can install an ordinary wooden door or create a shield from boards and sheathe it with clapboard. But the glass door made of special hardened triplex makes a truly exquisite sauna. The price of such a door can be up to 30% of the cost of the entire sauna.
Table. An approximate estimate for a home sauna
Name Unit rev. Qty Unit price, cu e. St-th, u. e. Note Premises Antiseptic for concrete l 2 3.6 7.2 “Nortex-Disinfector” Bar 50×50 run. m thirty 0.25 7.5 Dry birch Insulation 50 mm cub. m 0.8 60 4.8 ISOROC Isovent Foil sq. m sixteen 2.4 38.4 Izospan FD Lining sq. m sixteen 75 1200 Canadian cedar, cat. Premium, 11×92 Floor and sun lounger boards sq. m 3.5 32 112 Floor board larch 28 mm “Extra” Fasteners – – – 20 Self-tapping screws, clamps, dowels, etc.. Equipment Oven PCS. 1 260 260 “VESTA” 5/220 Lamp PCS. 1 five five “Cosmos” NPP 1302 Wiring run. m 15 2.5 37.5 KMZH 2×2.5 a door PCS. 1 130 130 KNOB Bronze Other – – – 50 Automatic machine, handles, stones, etc.. Total 1872 Of which 1200 is the cost of lining
Of course, you can pick up a less expensive lining for decoration. The cost of the rest of the materials will be about $ 700. e., and it is quite acceptable for your own sauna with a lounger.
In order to enjoy your own sauna carefree, do not forget about safety rules – get a compact fire extinguisher. And remember that the wood inside the sauna must never be varnished or impregnated with anything – this can result in harmful fumes..