- Installation of pillars under the gate
- Frame for gates and wickets
- Hinge, fitting, fitting
- How to sheathe the gate with corrugated board
This time we will focus on the simplest way to enter the site. Corrugated gates can be both temporary and permanent solutions. In any case, you need to be able to properly build the frame, to perform the trim and hinge of the gate. And we will tell you how to do it.
Installation of pillars under the gate
Imagine a gate leaf hung on a pole like a flag with a rigid canvas. The usual rule for a lever applies here, the fulcrum of which is close to the ground. In this case, the load on the “flagpole” increases in proportion to the distance from the axis, that is, the longer the sash, the more the pole will turn out. Therefore, we will take it as a rule that the underground part of the column should not be less than the aboveground one, and if the length of the sash is more than one and a half times the height, the difference in this distance is added to the depth.
Support concreting method. 1. Support – steel pipe. 2. Upper foundation block with aboveground part. 3. Reinforcement cage. 4. Backfilling. 5. Lower foundation block. 6. Reinforcing frame. 7. Sand pillow
Round steel pipes are usually used as pillars. This is not to say that this is the most reliable option, but for lightweight structures, which corrugated gates are, it is quite appropriate. If the gate is weighted, for example, by forging, care should be taken to strengthen the column with a stiffener by welding a piece of the corner from the outside, where the fence frame begins.
The easiest way is to use ready-made steel fence posts. As a support for the gate, it is enough to take a post one or two sizes larger
More than 99% of its lifespan, the gate is kept closed. This means that it is not necessary to take into account the displacement of the force vector when opening, but in the plane of the gate, the posts for hanging must have maximum rigidity..
The holes for the pillars are drilled 5–7 diameters of the pipe used. At the lower end of the pipes and in an area of 20–25 cm immediately below the ground surface, you must first wind up 10 mm of profile reinforcement for better adhesion to concrete. After that, on the bottom of the holes, you need to pour out fine gravel in a bucket and install the pipes, aligning them in the common plane of the fence, using lacing.
First, only the base of the column about 40 cm high is poured with concrete. The pipes are carefully aligned in the general plane and in height, in the above-ground part they are temporarily reinforced with wooden supports. It is necessary to take three days to solidify the concrete and ensure the complete immobility of the pillars for this period. After that, the hole is covered with crushed stone to a level of 35–40 cm from the surface, the filling is carefully compacted.
The upper part of the pillars must be poured after preliminary expansion of the pit to a square with dimensions of 40×40 cm and the construction of formwork for the aboveground part with a height of about 5 cm. Please note that the gates can be hung only after the concrete has reached maximum strength, that is, after 3-4 weeks.
Frame for gates and wickets
The gate frame must meet two main requirements:
- The frame must have sufficient rigidity so that the sheathing sheets do not lead over time.
- The frame should not be unnecessarily heavy, so as not to create additional stress on the hinges and posts, as well as to use material sparingly.
- The total length of the leaves should be 100 mm less than the distance between the posts: 40 mm for each canopy and 20 mm between the leaves, so that the gate does not jam from heating in the sun.
Of course, to give rigidity, the frame can be slanted and so, we recommend that you adhere to a rational approach. It is important that the additional weight from the braces is concentrated as close as possible to the hinge side of the sashes..
General scheme of swing gates. 1. The foundation of the support. 2. Backfilling of the support. 3. Support stand. 4. Awnings. 5. Braces. 6. Sash frame. 7. Gusset plate to strengthen the corners of the frame
Let’s start with the frame: we cut out four segments from the profile pipe (two exactly along the length of the sash and two in height). We immediately sand the workpieces from rust and remove the remaining rolling grease with a converter. Trim the edges at 45 °, making bevels towards each other.
Lay out the frame on a flat surface. The sign of the correctness of the rectangle is the equality of the diagonals, so match them with a tolerance of 2-3 mm, sharpening the edges if necessary. When the diagonals are aligned, make spot tacks at the inner corners of the frame and then check again. Grab one point at the outer corners and check the diagonals again: the metal leads perceptibly from welding, sometimes the diagonal can pull up to 10 mm. If the equality is observed, weld continuous seams first at the outer corners, then the inner ones, and only then flat on both sides..
Now the frame needs to be slanted correctly. First, add one horizontal bar exactly in the middle of the height – it is needed to secure the sheets. Next, connect the upper corner from the side of the awnings with this crossbar, retreating on it 2/3 of the sash length.
From the lower outer corner, throw the second bevel towards the first, so that the attachment point to the crossbar is 1/3 of the sash length from the hinged side. Finally, make two gussets from sheet steel with a side of 12-15 cm and reinforce the remaining free corners.
If a gate is planned in the sash, add a vertical post one meter from the side of the hinges. Filling the remaining part with braces follows the same principle. The wicket is welded from a pipe of the same thickness as the rest of the frame, and then fixed inside the contour on conventional door hinges. There is no need to add braces inside it, only one horizontal crossbar.
Remember to drill one hole at the bottom of the sash and in the crossbar at each end to drain the water. Do not rely on the tightness of the seams: water will inevitably accumulate inside the frame during rain, until the pipes at one point inflate.
Hinge, fitting, fitting
You can also hang the sashes alone. To do this, you need to knock down a pair of T-shaped supports from the bar, to which the gate is tightly tied with steel wire. It is quite simple to adjust them in height, you just need to knock the stand with a hammer higher or lower, and then slightly tighten the twist.
Install the gate in such a way that the frame has a gap from the level of the finished yard covering from 10 to 15 cm. It is not necessary to align the sashes strictly horizontally, it is more useful to achieve a compromise so that the gaps on all sides are evenly distributed.
The hinge fastening method depends on the opening direction. If the gate opens inward, it is recommended to weld canopies to the end of the frame for greater stability. At the same time, the gate is connected to the post by short inserts made of sheet steel, and the suspension points are correctly closed by the release of the sheathing at the edges.
When the gate is opened outward, this arrangement will lead to the fact that the outer sheathing sheet is jammed. In this case, it is recommended to weld the canopies to the posts, after fixing the steel angle pieces on them in order to shift the hanging point from the center outward and it is convenient to weld the canopy cylinders. In this case, the frame is connected to the hinges by means of short inserts from a thick strip.
How to sheathe the gate with corrugated board
Before proceeding with the sheathing, you need to fix the vertical latch to fix the stationary sash, install locks and other accessories. Then the frames of the sash must be removed from the hinges, the scale and rust residues must be removed, primed and opened twice with paint, preferably in dark colors..
It is recommended to sew on the sheets with the sashes closed, pulling the lacing along the upper edge. First, the paneling of the stationary sash is carried out, starting from the center of the gate. The position of the sheets is vertical, the first one is screwed flush with the frame. From the side of the hinges, the outer sheet must be cut by releasing it to the required distance to mask the hinges. Please note that when the doors are opened outward, the hinges will be visible; rectangular cutouts must be made under them. It is recommended to wrap the cut edges inward, including at the cutouts, and then treat with anticorrosive.
Sewing of the movable sash is carried out in such a way that the sheet is shifted onto the stationary sash with the formation of a vestibule and at the same time lies along the wave. If there is an opening in the sash for the wicket, the sheets must be cut flush so that the clearance is clean. In this case, the lining of the wicket is admitted to the sash from above, below and on the side of the lock, and from the side of the hinges it is tucked onto the end of the frame frame and fastened with small self-tapping screws along the pre-drilled holes.
Below the gate, the same ventilation gap must be maintained as was provided for the entire fence. When sewn on, the sheets are dropped below the frame and oriented with the cut edge up. After installation, the upper edge of the door is covered with a protective corner profile in the color of the rest of the coating, and a light galvanized mesh is invisibly attached from the bottom.