- We make legs
- Seat and backrest details
- Preparation of parts
- Seat boards
- Backrest frame
- Assembling the bench
If you need a garden bench, then, as a jack of all trades, it will not be difficult for you to make it yourself. We propose to consider the basic design, study the assembly scheme and manufacture of parts. As a result, you will get a stylish and comfortable bench made from scrap materials..
We make legs
Garden bench legs are a frame structure that supports and defines the shape of the seat. They can be made of wood or metal, the latter is recommended for installation on open ground or for stationary installation. The advantage of the wooden base is the lower weight and relative mobility of the bench.
It is very important that the legs have the same shape, therefore it is recommended to abandon the manufacture of complex products with bent elements in the absence of the necessary equipment and bending skills. Instead, we will shape the bench seat from three planes:
- Directly seat (detail A). The most convenient part width is 40–45 cm.
- Ukos (detail B). It forms the slanted part for the lower back. The angle relative to the vertical backrest is about 30–35 °, the length from the seat to the backrest is 300 mm.
- Backrest (detail B). It also acts as a rear support leg. The length of the part depends on the height of the bench, the back should rise 60 cm above the seat, taking into account the inclined part.
The design is complemented by a horizontal bar and a front leg-stance. The latter is recommended to be connected to the seat through an insert with a length of 150 mm with undercut ends at 30 and 60 °. This will fold down the front edge of the seat, which will give the bench a more complete look. The same technique can be used to slightly bend the upper edge of the back..
It is supposed to make legs from a 25×25 mm profile pipe, it is better to connect the parts by welding, but it is also possible with overhead plates for bolts. If the bench is to be completely wooden, use a 40×40 mm beam and connect the perpendicular nodes with a groove-tenon connection with reinforcement with plastic dowels or for a bolt. Attachment plates made of steel are recommended for bonding at arbitrary angles.
1 – thorn-lug connection; 2 – metal plate; 3 – bolts
If you are welding a metal structure, carefully weld and grind the welding seams with a grinding wheel, ensuring their tightness. The ends of the pipes must be muffled: if moisture gets inside, the thin-walled legs will not live long. For installation on the ground, the lower ends of the legs are scalded with a wide heel.
The described device of the legs is conditionally schematic, you can freely change the shape and position of the attachment points. If desired, the openings in the legs can be filled with piece forged products. In this case, it is recommended to weld the frame from a 20×20 mm square bar.
Seat and backrest details
The flat part of the seat consists of four planks 25×80-100mm, installed at intervals of 20-30mm for free drainage of water. Two more of the same boards are installed on the inclined part of the back and one more, but 40-60 mm wide, will be required to decorate the bent edges. Total – eight boards.
It is proposed to close the vertical part of the back with a light shield. It is necessary to assemble a frame with a height of 40 cm from bars of 25×25 mm. Inside the frame, oblique spacers are installed from the same bar at an angle of 45-60 °, their approximate length is 55-70 cm. Here it is preferable to connect with a spike in an eyelet, but the parts can also be fastened anodized screws.
For the manufacture of a bench, it is recommended to use glued calibrated lumber, they are less susceptible to shrinkage and warping. All elements of the bench are of the same length, which you are free to change as you see fit. Planks 25 mm thick are suitable for assembling benches up to 2–2.2 meters long. For benches up to 3 meters long, choose 40 mm thick boards, and for longer ones – 50 mm. For the finished product to have the correct proportions, also increase the width of the boards and the distance between them, making the flat part of the seat about 50-55 cm wide.
Preparation of parts
All parts are pre-processed before final assembly.
Each of the wooden parts is sanded by hand, opened once with linseed oil and again processed with fine sandpaper until the wood loses its gloss. This is followed by the application of up to two layers of yacht varnish, including on the surface of the undercut joints. The legs can be assembled the next day, after which they need to be varnished again.
If the legs are metal, they are processed after the final welding and grinding of the seams “to zero”. With a rag soaked in petroleum solvent, you need to remove the remaining rolling grease and wipe the product dry. If rust is present, remove it with a wire brush or cord-brush, after which the metal is immediately covered with a layer of alkyd primer. If the surface is brushed to a steel sheen, phosphating compounds should be preferred. After the primer has dried, apply 2-3 coats of decorative paint for metal surfaces.
It is best to use a hand router or a planer for chamfering the face edges and ends of the boards. The optimum width of the chamfer is 4–5 mm, it will not allow chips to form and keep clothes intact.
Faceted boards need to be brightened with a hand sander, then finely sanded to reveal the texture of the wood. The rear surfaces of the boards do not have to be thoroughly processed; it is enough to remove defects and remove roughness. The front surface should be smooth and even, it is recommended to even clean and putty large defects, otherwise everything will be perfectly visible under the varnish. Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are made 5-7 cm from the edges of the boards in the center, drilling must be performed according to the exact marking.
After processing, the parts are opened with a layer of acrylic primer. If using pine boards, take protective chemicals with a moxibustion effect. Each board is opened with three layers of polyurethane varnish with the desired tone and left to dry for a day..
It is not necessary to chamfer the ribs, but the bars and spacers should be carefully sanded, primed and varnished, just like the seat boards. The holes are made only in longitudinal bars, which serve as a supporting base for the frame, at the same distance from the ends as for the boards. Dried varnished parts can be collected and placed on the bench.
Assembling the bench
Before assembling the legs, you need to prepare: apply markings on them according to the step of installing the boards. 10 mm through holes are drilled according to the marks for the extreme front and extreme upper strips. They are attached to the legs with long bolts with a round head and a square serif at the base..
The installation of the following parts starts from the front edge of the flat seat, the frame is attached to the backrest last. At this stage, it is possible to very simply install the armrests from a steel strip bent to a template. Its long flat end is wound under the boards of the flat part of the seat and together with it is attached to the leg. The second edge is fastened with a fold under the slats of the inclined part of the back. Handles can be decorated with wood trims on the flat top.
The frame is installed last and is attached in the same way as the rest of the parts. During the assembly, it is not necessary to tighten the bolts too much, this is done after the final leveling of the bench, along the way, the depth of the recessed bolt heads is controlled. To give strength, you need to fasten the legs of the bench with a crossbar, its length is determined exclusively in place. Two plates with holes must be welded perpendicularly to a long one-piece rail and bolted assembly even if the legs are welded.
The most difficult is probably to attach the upper plank of the inclined part. For easy fastening, this bolt must be passed through the two legs of the legs at an oblique angle. For a tree, the task is relatively easy, the hole is easy enough to make, it remains to make an oblique cut under the washer with a feather drill. In a hollow pipe, difficulties arise already in the manufacture of holes: with a deviation of 30–35 ° from the perpendicular, this is done at low feed and high speeds, with preliminary punching and reaming by 4 and 6 mm. The third wall can be pushed through immediately with a large drill at a low feed, the two holes available will help maintain centering. The outlet hole needs to be rolled up a little at the bottom for correct installation of the washer.
After final assembly, you need to varnish or paint the nuts, washers and ends of the bots. The tree is once again opened with varnish, and the polished bolt heads are poured with it. The shop is ready for use, next time it will need to be varnished after 6 months, and then the coating should be renewed about once every 2-3 years.