Processing of edges and surfaces of chipboard

The adhesive tape prevents the surface layer of the board from splitting when sawing. The hand saw must be attached with the maximum tilt.

The jagged edge is a sad sight. It is especially striking on the slabs painted in white..

Chips and synthetic resin create a strong bond when pressed, but with certain processing of the board, the chips can split. For example, along the edge of the cut, in the place of drilling, when planing and rasping. Natural wood fibers are longer and more tightly bound to each other. This is why chipboard needs to be handled more carefully..

How to cut particle boards

Almost any saw will work for these purposes. It is only necessary to guide it at a very acute angle to the surface of the plate, that is, putting the saw almost flat to the surface. Guide the circular and bow saws at a low feed rate with only light pressure. This will also reduce the risk of a brittle cut line. It is advisable, of course, to use the saw with the finest teeth. Adhesive tape, which is pulled along the cut line, can also provide additional protection. This is generally recommended for coated particle boards.

Another tip: saw slowly. Excessive haste can lead to such a result that the uneven, chipped edge of one part forms an ugly joint with another. By the way, the coating can be protected from splitting if you cut it with a sharp knife – the deeper the better..

Drilling, rasping and planing

Blunt or limited speed drills tend to split the edges of the hole being drilled. Only by choosing a good drill and guiding the tool correctly can damage be avoided.

With an even, clean cut, additional processing is not required. But a circular saw can leave irregularities that need to be removed with a rasp or plane..

The rasp (or plane) is guided along the edge carefully, as when working with wood, and from the outside to the inside, so that chips do not break out, and the edge after stripping does not seem even more sloppy.

For slabs covered with foil, a plane is more suitable. Anyone who finds it too difficult to work with a plane can use a file.

Surface treatment

There are two ways to decorate the surface of wood products and chipboards – varnishing or cladding. Varnish is usually applied to wooden surfaces, chipboards for aesthetic reasons – it is extremely rare, only when it is necessary to “refine” the not very impressive appearance of the board or the finished product.

Before varnishing, the surface should be putty.

Even a factory sanded chipboard surface needs to be putty and sanded before being varnished. Tiny, barely noticeable damage can clearly appear under the varnish film, and this will only worsen the appearance of the product.

The putty is applied evenly with a spatula, and after drying, the surface is treated with sandpaper. The result of this preparatory work should be an absolutely flat surface, and then one layer of varnish is enough to form a flawless film..

If, after applying the varnish, any errors were found, then before recoating the surface should be lightly sanded with sandpaper..

Glue the cover.

The choice of coatings for particle boards is very large. If you have special requests regarding color, it is better to use film..

The films are available in a wide range of colors and with a variety of decor, moreover, they are usually treated with an adhesive composition, which simplifies the work on finishing the plates. Since the film coating is very thin, the bearing surface must be carefully sanded before stretching the film..

Laminate sheet, thicker and more wear resistant. It is glued with a special glue, which is applied to the supporting surface of the plate and to the coating.

The laminated coating makes the chipboard attractive and at the same time protects it from various influences.

Surface protection

If you bought or made furniture from particle boards, the composition of which you do not know, then it is better to take additional measures to protect your health..

Protection with varnish.

Formaldehyde fumes can be stopped by re-coating the furniture. This layer should be thick enough. So, the lacquer coating, at least in two layers, prevents further evaporation of formaldehyde.

Films and laminates also protect the surface. Here you need to pay attention to the joints: they should be as tight as possible.

Plywood can also become a protective material, but not any. Some types of plywood are made using an adhesive that contains the same formaldehyde. Therefore, it is advisable to process the plywood – to varnish.

Matter and wallpaper.

Cloth and wallpaper are absolutely unsuitable materials for protecting against formaldehyde emissions. They are porous and therefore cannot serve as reliable protection..

Carpets, as well as the glue used to install them, can also release formaldehyde. If the relevant services during the inspection detected an increased concentration of vapors hazardous to health, it is necessary to find out which material is the source, before blaming the chipboard for everything and starting a new treatment of their surface.

Edges

A narrow strip of plastic is applied to the edge. Iron promotes bonding.

The cut from chipboard does not look very nice, and more importantly, it exposes the loose, most vulnerable inner layer. Also, impact and strong pressure can damage the cut edges. Therefore, the edge must be protected.

The simplest, but in most cases, quite reliable protection is to glue a plastic tape with an adhesive coating or a veneer plate using a not very heated iron.

Wooden planks.

The most stressed edges of the board need better protection. Thin wood strips will help to provide it. In color, they should be in harmony with the coating of the slab. After gluing the planks separately or together with the plate, it is necessary to cover with varnish or some other protective compound.

Even the 5mm strip is an effective edge protection. A wider plank will also prevent the slab from bending.

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