Finishing a bathroom is a technically complex process that requires attention to every detail, ingenuity and accuracy. The interior and functionality are thought out from the first step to the very end, right down to the grouting. Due to the compressed space, absolutely everything is interconnected here – in particular, the chosen method of finishing the bathroom can influence the choice of the bath itself. We will provide step-by-step instructions for finishing the side of the bathtub with tiles used for flooring.
Note.The selection of the bath takes place before the start of all work – after dismantling and cleaning. With the tiles laid on the walls, the size of the seat for the bathtub should be at least equal to the length of the bathtub plus 2 cm (1 cm of the mounting gap on each side). With a longer niche length, the remaining space is finished with a side. Screen finishing is done last.
If it is obvious that there will be free space, reinforce the base for the side in advance by carefully measuring and marking the surface.
After installing the bathtub and adjusting the legs according to the level, we strengthen the vertical “stands” from the UD-profile – the basis of our screen. We mount the lower UD profile. The frame will be assembled in the usual way – as it is done for drywall.
Question.How to determine the installation depth of the UD profile, and the entire screen afterwards?
Answer.Practice has shown that it is better to take the optimal installation depth of the screen according to the formula: set aside from the edge of the bath side: 1 cm + tile thickness + adhesive layer (4 mm) + drywall thickness.
We install a siphon-drain on the bath and connect it to the sewer. We fasten the horizontal ribs of the frame made of the CD profile onto the vertical “racks” (with self-tapping screws, “fleas” or rivets).
Attention! At this stage, you should determine the location of the inspection hatch and lay an opening in the frame.
The space between the frame and the bathroom must be filled with foam in places. This will strengthen the structure and prevent backlash and “jitter” of the structure. Then we sheathe the frame with moisture-resistant plasterboard.
Now you can tile the rim above the bathtub and on the sides. Trimming of tiles should be carried out as carefully as possible using special nippers. The seam of the cropped side of the vertical row should be overlapped by the factory edge of the tile of the horizontal row of the screen.
Attention! Do not rely on uneven edges to be invisible after grouting. Over time, the grout will surely change its shade and “the secret will become apparent.” Always try to overlap the trimmed edge with the factory.
After facing the edges, carefully measure and mark the moisture-resistant drywall for mounting the top row. This can be done using a UD profile temporarily fixed to the plane of the base of the screen..
Question.Why lay the top row first? It’s easier to start from the bottom.
Answer.The floor can rarely be tiled perfectly in level – including due to defects in the tiles themselves (even the most expensive types of ceramics have minimal size differences). Unevenness of the base will appear at well-visible central joints, or even lead to an unpleasant skew of the strip. We’ll have to dismantle the row and do it again, or put up with distortions. Laying from the center allows you to keep the visible seam even, and “hide” possible displacements under the upper side of the bath or at the junction of the floor with the screen.
We lay the bottom row of the screen and install the inspection hatch.
We trim the side.
Estimate. Since this is a rough estimate, prices are averaged. We accept dimensions: length 2 m, height (width) 0.7 m, S = 1.4 sq. m:
|Name||Unit rev.||Qty||Unit price.||St-th||Note|
|UD profile||run. m||3.5||20||70||Side and bottom|
|CD profile||run. m||6||thirty||180||Transverse edges of the frame|
|GKL moisture resistant 12.5 mm, Knauf||sheet||1||200||200||Sheet 1.2×2 m|
|Ceramic tiles||sq. m||1.4||300||420||Consider cutting!|
|Ceresit CE 33 grout||Kg||1||75||75||Colored seam|
|Self-tapping screws, tile adhesive, dowels||–||–||300||300||And also other consumables|
|Total material||1200||Depends on the price of the tile|
|Job||1500||Depends on the terms of the contract|
|Total material and work||2700|
Attention! When calculating the number of tiles, consider the cutting. Consumption and trimming depend on the location of the horizontal joints.
The screen design described in this master class is an ideal solution for a major overhaul of a bathroom, when the equipment and all interior elements are new and it is possible to calculate everything in advance and foresee every little thing.