The car puffs up, cracks, but the water level does not go down. You start frantically looking for workshop phones, call and explain to the master the symptoms of a breakdown, in response they tell you “everything is clear, the pump is covered, you need to change and it will cost at least three to four thousand plus for going home.” “Where can I get that?” and the warranty has already ended!
I want to share with you my experience in solving this annoying problem in the shortest possible time, and the cost of the entire repair will cost you the maximum in the purchase of good glue or a soldering iron, this is the maximum!
I present to you a detailed, illustrated instructions for repairing a water pump (pump) of a washing machine!
So, first: if you have never cleaned the filter collection, I advise you to pick up the instructions for the typewriter and find this section in it. With it, you will find out where your machine has a filter and a pump, respectively.
Open the decorative panel, behind which is the filter cover, but do not open the cover.
Because the machine is still full of water, how to drain it? – you ask. To do this, you need to move the machine away from the wall, because we need to get to the drain hose. Got what? “All ingenious is simple” and the engineers who designed your machine knew that, here is the principle of a water seal and nothing else, not any valves. To drain the water, we need a Phillips screwdriver in order to unscrew one self-tapping screw with which the hose is held at a height of 60 cm from the floor. Now, when the hose is released, we easily drain the water into the sewer drain by simply lowering it to the floor (unless, of course, the drain is higher than 10-15 cm from the floor, if a basin is needed higher), periodically the hose must be lifted for better water flow. When the water stopped gurgling in the hose, it means that we have drained it. There is some water left in the pump, so prepare a rag.
Now we open the filter cover, putting a rag, look inside and see the pump impeller, here it is the culprit of the breakdown.
By the way, we will determine whether it is broken or not, but it is rarely possible to do this only by visual inspection, so we take a screwdriver and try to turn the impeller in any direction, but without pushing it away from ourselves. Why not press? Because there is a stop inside the impeller, against which the eccentric located on the motor shaft abuts, and as a rule cuts off half of this stop, and when you press the impeller, it moves towards the engine and enters into engagement with the eccentric. And we need to make sure that the emphasis is cut off. When the stop is cut off, the impeller rotates freely in any direction for all 360 degrees, and in general, only 320 degrees.
So, we have identified a breakdown. We begin the operation of removing the pump from the machine, for which we need to tilt it 45 degrees towards the back wall. At the bottom, unscrew two self-tapping screws and remove the protective panel.
Here the pump seemed to us in all its glory.
On the front wall, where the filter cover, we unscrew the two self-tapping screws securing the pump and release it from the pipes and wires, having previously memorized their location.
Removing the pump.
We begin to disassemble the pump, for which we turn out three self-tapping screws securing the pump body from the engine side. Disconnect carefully so as not to damage the gasket. If the impeller has not yet fallen off by itself, we will need to remove it. But you need to remove it carefully, because it is held on the shaft by the back cover, which is located behind the eccentric, and it is important not to break it.
Remember the cover is slightly wider than the eccentric, and it is snapped into the impeller housing.
Having removed the impeller housing, we look inside and see that the emphasis has been cut off. What we need to restore it: a drill with a diameter of 3 mm. 3.5 mm screw. A hacksaw for metal and a flat screwdriver. In the area of the middle of the stop, we drill a hole, or we burn it with a hot awl. We make a screw 4 mm long. Why do we cut off the hat from the prepared screw and make a slot for the screwdriver.
We screw the screw to such a depth that will provide us with free movement of the eccentric in the impeller housing, but only by 320 degrees.
Next, we have to assemble the impeller housing, for which we need to restore a strong connection between the housing and the cover. There are two ways to do this..
The first. glue, and for this we need a good glue that glues polyethylene and polystyrene, and is not afraid of water and temperature. We apply glue to the inner surface of the connection between the case and the lid, but so as not to glue the eccentric and connect it, pressing it tightly until it snaps into place. We are waiting for the glue to harden and assemble.
Second: restore the surface of the latch with the same material, using a soldering iron. Why melt the edge of the latch inward, but carefully so as not to spoil it. It is necessary to try on to achieve the desired result.
The body should slam shut when pressed firmly, but not when struck. On impact, the body may split.
After we have restored the impeller, we assemble the machine in reverse order. I assure you that your machine will serve you for at least two years, or even longer. And your budget will not be affected. I wish you a successful repair and flawless operation of your machine!
This repair was carried out on a Samsung typewriter, but I do not think that the pumps on other companies’ typewriters are very different.