Baths are: recumbent, sit-down, half-baths and deep shower trays. Enamel baths are still in the greatest demand in Russia. The installation of such a bathroom must begin with the installation of a floor-standing plastic siphon with an overflow and outlet, or from a cast iron siphon with a brass outlet and a cast iron overflow. Sometimes it is necessary to assemble a siphon from a transition tee and others, turned on a lathe and welded parts.
After installing the siphon, you will need to attach the legs to the bathtub and place it so that the outlet of the plastic or homemade siphon goes into the sewer pipe. Screw the steel pipe into the cast iron siphon.
Move the bathtub, if possible, close to the wall and tilt towards the outlet. Stamp the joint between the siphon and the sewer pipe. Screw the equalizer of electrical potentials with one side to the special tide on the bath. Connect the other side of the equalizer to the water pipe or ground after installing the bath. The potential equalizer protects the person touching the bathtub from electrostatic shock caused by the jet hitting the bath surface. Cast iron bathtubs made in Turkey, for example, have metal chrome handles inside. They are beautiful and comfortable. By the way, do not forget to ground the body of such a bath..
Installation of whirlpool baths is more complicated due to the need to ground the electrical equipment of these baths without fail. The metal chrome nozzles usually protrude from the inside of the bath. The bathtub itself is made of faience (Italy), plastic (Slovakia), etc. Each hydromassage bathtub is equipped with an electric motor that drives water through the pipes.
When the bath is placed in the center of the room, there are no issues with sealing the edges of the bath. It is a different matter if the bath is against a wall or walls. In this case, cover small gaps between the side of the bath and the wall with steeply diluted cement, creating a triangular layer in the section, and then paint over the front side with white oil paint. If you are tiling the walls at the same time, then a small, horizontally greased gap is likely to block the edges of the tiles. Place a brick “foundation” under large cracks or place a plastic plate or pipe on the side of the bathtub, on top of which apply a sealing layer. You can mask this layer with ceramic tiles..
We recommend polyurethane polyurethane foam made in Switzerland from imported compounds for sealing gaps around the bathtub and on the walls..
When working with this foam, be sure to follow the safety rules:
The contact surfaces are cleaned before applying the foam. Extraction of foam from a cylinder is carried out in a certain sequence:
The groove or gap is filled with foam for 2/3 of the volume. Excess hardened foam is removed with a knife, not yet hardened – removed with a solvent. During breaks in work, the nozzle is removed and washed with solvent and water. One-component polyurethane foam (containing 4.4 diphenylmethane zocyanite) is a semi-flexible sealant that cures when exposed to moisture in the air. Foam adheres well to concrete, stone, enamels on metals, etc., but is ineffective on polyethylene and silicone. It hardens within 2-24 hours, increasing in volume. In the solid state, the foam is waterproof and a good thermal insulator.
If your bath enamel has lost its smooth surface, it can be consistently restored. To do this, first degrease the surface with acetone or solvent. Wipe the porous surface with white nitro paint using a swab. Repeat the process until you get a flat surface. Spray the final layer with nitro enamel. After degreasing chips on the surface, coat with a mixture of “super cement” and nitro enamel in a ratio of 1: 1. With a single mixer for bath and washbasin – their sides should overlap each other by 50 – 100 mm.
