- Types of drywall and mounting profile
- Wall preview
- Choice of tool and material
- Preparing the wall and marking it
- Frame installation
- Installation of drywall and plaster of drywall joints
fastening material for the frame of the plasterboard system
And also about the features of the necessary fasteners for the corresponding working surface, you will learn how to correctly mark and mount the frame and how to check the quality of the work performed.
Types of drywall and mounting profile
There are three types of drywall: standard gypsum plasterboards (GKL), fire-resistant gypsum plasterboards (GKLO) and moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboards (GKLV). In turn, standard gypsum plasterboards (GKL) are divided, depending on the thickness, into wall (12.5 mm), ceiling (9 mm) arched (6 mm).
Mounting profiles are produced in three types: ceiling and wall (CD 60), rack (CW 50, 75, 100) and guides (UD 17, 27; UW 50, 75, 100), standard length 3-4 m.
Before starting work, you need to inspect the object, that is, the wall or ceiling, on which the drywall will be installed. You need to check what the wall itself is made of, whether it is a brick, a shell, aerated concrete or concrete blocks. If this is a ceiling, then it is necessary to check whether it is concrete or wooden. It is also necessary to take into account the humidity of the environment in which the drywall will be located after its installation during the operation of the room.
Based on this, fastening materials and the type of drywall are selected. In rooms with a normal humid environment (apartment, office), standard gypsum plasterboards are used, in a high humid environment (bathroom, basement) they are moisture resistant and in rooms where increased fire resistance is required (bank safes), fire resistant gypsum plasterboards are used. Also, when installing the ceiling, you need to take into account the height to which the plasterboard ceiling will fall. If the height exceeds 13 cm, then hanging knitting needles will be needed, if less, then ES suspension is used. For the installation of suspended fasteners on a brick or concrete wall, a hammer-in dowel with a size of 6×40 is used, a hammer-in dowel with a size of at least 8×80 is used on a shell wall, and in the case of aerated concrete or wooden floors, wood screws with a size of 4.5×55 and more are used.
Choice of tool and material
To install drywall, you need the following tools: percussion hammer, screwdriver, aluminum level of different sizes (1m, 2.5m), rule (2m, 2.5m), hydro level or laser level, metal scissors, tape measure, gypsum board plane, square, tracer, hammer, plasterboard knife, pencil.
Suitable material is used for wall and ceiling installation.
If this is a ceiling installation, then you will need a ceiling plasterboard (6 mm). It should also be taken into account that the installation of the profile on the ceiling is carried out after 40 cm. Therefore, the CD profile will be required more than when installing the wall, since the profile is installed on the wall after 60 cm. You will need the UD guide profile. It is necessary to take into account the height to which the ceiling will fall. When lowering the ceiling to 12 cm, a universal suspension ES 60/125 is used. If the height of the lowering of the ceiling exceeds 12 cm, then you will need a spoke with an eyelet and a swivel suspension with an expanding element. When installing on a concrete floor, a driven dowel is used. When installing on a wooden floor, you will need a wood screw. You will also need longitudinal connectors for the CD profile and single-level crab connectors. Self-drilling screw 9.5 mm “flea”. Self-tapping screw for metal 25 mm.
Wall mounting takes into account the future habitat of the drywall. It can be standard wall drywall or moisture resistant. For various wall surfaces (brick, shell, aerated concrete or concrete blocks), a plug-in dowel of different sizes is used. The higher the surface density, the smaller the size of the dowel. The profile is mounted on the wall after 60 cm. You will need the UD guide profile, longitudinal connectors for the CD profile and single-level crab connectors. Self-drilling screw 9.5 mm “flea”. Self-tapping screw for metal 25 mm.
Preparing the wall and marking it
When installing drywall on the ceiling, first of all, it is necessary to note the horizontal level of the room. For this, a hydro level or a laser level is used. When using a hydro level, it is imperative to have experience with it. As for the laser level, it is much easier to use, but much more expensive than the hydro level. When marking the horizontal level, it is necessary in all corners of the room, both outside and inside, to put marks (small lines) with a pencil. Next, the distance from the ceiling to these marks in each corner is measured. And next to each risk, the corresponding distance is marked.
marking the horizontal level of the room and the distance from it to the ceiling
This is done in order to determine the lowest point on the ceiling, from which we will repel when lowering the ceiling. The ceiling using profiles can be lowered by at least 4 cm from the minimum distance found. Based on this, the height to which the ceiling must be lowered is calculated. The resulting difference is marked with a tape measure in each corner from the obtained points of the horizontal level of the room. Further, all the obtained points are horizontally and sequentially connected to each other with a tracer. Having a marked height, to which the ceiling will fall to the wall along the entire perimeter of the line, the UD 27 profile is mounted (nailed).
Now, along the wall on the ceiling with a distance of 40 cm, marks are made with a pencil. The same marks must be placed on the opposite side of the ceiling. Opposite marked points are connected to each other by a tracer. On the ceiling, parallel lines with a distance of 40 cm will be visible. Further, marks are placed on a line with a distance of 50 cm (the future place of installation of the mounting suspension). On each subsequent line, the marks are placed with an offset of 25 cm.As a result, all points on the ceiling should be staggered.
The wall is marked as follows. A vertical line is drawn in the corner of the wall on the adjacent wall at a distance of 5-6 cm from the corner. In the opposite corner of the wall, a vertical line is made in the same way. Now, with the help of a tracer, these lines must be connected along the floor and along the ceiling. The drawn line is the wall perimeter line. Now from the corner of the wall at a distance of 60 cm, it is necessary to mark vertical lines in the level. Marks are placed on these lines in a checkerboard pattern after 50 cm (place of installation of the ES fixing hanger).
After all the markings, ES fixing hangers or a spoke with an eyelet and a swivel hanger are mounted on the ceiling. Having all the suspensions, the length of each line on the ceiling is measured and, with the help of metal scissors, the CD profile is cut 1 cm less from the length of the measured line. Then it is inserted into the UD guide profile already nailed to the wall. After all the profiles are installed, they must be set horizontally and fixed to the hangers. To do this, an aluminum level of as long as possible (set horizontally) is substituted for each CD profile in a horizontal position. With the help of “flea beetles”, the CD profile is attached to the ES fastener. The protruding part of the ES fastener is bent.
frame of plasterboard ceiling system with ES hangers
When mounting the CD profile on a swivel hanger, the “flea” fasteners are not made, in this case, when the swivel fastener rotates, it is clearly fixed on it.
frame of plasterboard ceiling system on swivel hangers
After setting all the profiles horizontally using the crab connectors and the CD profile, they are transversely connected to each other. Transverse profiles are installed for the rigidity of the overall structure at the joints of gypsum plasterboard sheets. Ceiling frame ready.
The frame is mounted on the wall in the same way. The UD profile is attached to the wall perimeter line using a hammer-in dowel. In the places of the marked points on the vertical lines, an ES fixing hanger is mounted, and a hammer-in dowel is also used. The CD profiles are installed in the UD guide profile along vertical lines, and are connected with the fixing hanger with the help of “flea beetles” in the level.
connection of the fixing hanger and the CD profile with a “flea”
At the joints of gypsum plasterboards, connectors “crab” and profile CD are also installed.
After installing the frame, it is necessary to check the quality of installation of the CD profiles in the plane. To do this, close to the profiles perpendicular to them, a rule of 2-2.5 m is set, the distance between the profile and the rule should not exceed 1.5 mm. If there are large gaps on the nearest ES fixing hangers, it will be necessary to twist the “fleas”.
Installation of drywall and plaster of drywall joints
After the frame is ready, you can proceed with the installation of drywall sheets. Both on the ceiling and on the wall, the sheets are attached in the same way. The sheet is tightly fitted to the finished frame, so that one edge of the sheet is butted to the wall, and the other is in the middle of the CD profile. The sheets are attached to the exposed CD and UD profiles using self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm long.
installation of gypsum plasterboard to the profile with a self-tapping screw
Self-tapping screws should go deeper into the sheet so that their top does not protrude, but also does not go too deep. Since when the top layer of cardboard breaks, the fastener site relaxes. The distance between the self-tapping screws should be 20-25 cm. If a smaller sheet is needed during installation, then using a GKL knife it can be cut from a larger sheet. Then the end of the sheet is cleaned with a plane.
After all the sheets are mounted, it is necessary to putty in the places of self-tapping screws and drywall seams.
serping and plastering plasterboard joints
When seams are putty, a special putty is used for them and serpentine adhesive tape. The tape is glued to the seam with the adhesive side and sealed on top with putty using a spatula and a one-handed trowel. The wall is ready.