- We prepare the opening in advance
- What materials should be used
- Measurements, alignment and turning angles
- Installation of panels on slopes
- Sealing of junctions
- Outside corner protection at a glance
Damp and wet corners of window frames, mold and cracks that appear over time are a sure sign of improper installation of slopes. We will tell you about the materials used and the DIY installation technique, which guarantee a long service life and exemplary appearance..
We prepare the opening in advance
For guaranteed high-quality finishing of slopes, you must be firmly convinced that the windows themselves are installed technologically and in accordance with construction standards. Often, problems with slopes arise from a broken foam seam, therefore:
- Windows should be exposed on blocks of incompressible material, the service life of which is comparable to window plastic. Pads are placed under each impost.
- Fastening in the opening – only direct mounting with anchor bolts.
- The window sill is cut with a gap of 10 mm from the walls so that the plastic does not swell due to thermal expansion.
- The sill is installed on the same blocks as the window. Its back should be tightly wedged, and the front should be tilted at an angle of 1-2 ° (1: 100). For greater reliability, the window sill can be supported with self-tapping screws screwed into the support profile.
- The rigidity of the installation is checked by placing a person on the windowsill, while there should be no gap under the lower frame.
- The installation gaps of the window and sill are tightly filled with polyurethane foam.
- Foam is cut along the perimeter of the window, forming a groove of 7-10 mm.
In detail about how to install PVC plastic windows, we told you in the article “How to install a plastic PVC window with your own hands”.
What materials should be used
When finishing slopes, the developer most often makes mistakes in the choice of material. The rule here is simple: the angle between the slope and the frame must be filled with plastic and elastic material, only in this way it is guaranteed that gaps will not appear when the building settles. The problem is that no sealants have yet been invented that would have the same high adhesion to plaster or drywall as to plastic. Therefore, the most suitable material for arranging good slopes is plastic honeycomb and sandwich panels for interior decoration..
In addition, you will need one or two cylinders of good quality polyurethane foam for normal temperatures. You will also need a distance rail along the perimeter of the opening. In special kits for mounting slopes, it can be supplied in the form of a plastic profile with grooves. If you pick up materials at random, you can use a wooden plank of about 15×40 mm.
Slopes can be additionally insulated, for this, mineral wool with a density of 40 kg / m is stuffed into the gap between the panel and the opening3. Consumables – plastic plugs, self-tapping screws and decorative sealant containing silicone.
Measurements, alignment and turning angles
Visually, the slope panels are a continuation of the window frame, so close attention must be paid to their careful alignment. There are, however, techniques that greatly simplify the process..
Along the outer perimeter of the opening, a distance rail is stuffed flush with the wall. If the wall has potholes and sagging, the rail is packed along the most protruding points. For fastening, plastic plugs and hardened self-tapping screws are used, which, after fastening, are adjusted with a screwdriver.
The slats are set strictly parallel to the lines of the window frame, for which a square is applied to it and the indentation is measured with a tape measure to the bar. This distance determines the turning angle of the slopes. Its optimal value is 1–1.5 cm for every 10 cm of width, while it is necessary to take into account both the thickness of the plastic panel and the fact that the slope does not cover the window frame, but starts under it.
After adjusting, make sure that the plane of the rails is not bent, then wedge them by placing wood chips or plastic wedges in the slot. The firmly fixed batten can be used as a beacon when plastering wall sections adjacent to the slope. Usually, when decorating windows, this is exactly what they do, do not forget to cut off strips of wallpaper 30-40 cm along the edges of the window with a knife. It is desirable to level the areas with starting gypsum plaster and a 350 mm spatula.
Installation of panels on slopes
If you are using wooden spacers, remember to attach the mounting profile to them to secure the corner strips. After that, the trimmed panel must be inserted into the groove under the window frame and tilted slightly. So that after installation the panel is tightly pressed against the frame, a small amount of quick-drying plastic material must be applied under it, forming a sill 30–40 mm from the frame. With an actual gap of 3-4 mm, you can use sanitary silicone, larger pockets are filled with foam.
Actually, foamed polyurethane can be used for continuous gluing of plastic, the insulation made of it is much better than mineral wool. However, in order to save money, you can use any soft roll materials. It is enough to wait for the crust to set on the foam, after which the space under the slope is filled with insulation, and the panel returns to its normal position: it is pressed against the spacer rail and fixed with brackets or screws. When turning, the slope panel will work like a lever and press firmly against the window, it remains only to lightly press down small irregularities in the place of foaming, if any remain.
The order of installation matters: first, the top panel is installed, then the side panels are cut under it. In this position, the fillet welds at the corners are directed horizontally and are not striking, and after processing they cannot be distinguished at all.
Sealing of junctions
The joints between the plastic elements only seem tight, they need to be sealed with special compounds to match the color of the slopes. However, with proper skill, you can easily separate materials of different colors with a thin decorative seam..
Attention! sealing of joints is carried out only after the completion of the repair and thorough cleaning of windows and slopes from dust and dirt. At the corners of the surface, degrease with gasoline “Galosha”, dry, and then sprinkle with water.
For a correct and perfectly even seam, the nozzle of the syringe tube should be cut at an angle of 45 ° to form a hole the thickness of a pen from a pen. The spout is pressed by the sharp part to the corner, a small amount of the composition is squeezed out and, most importantly, the movement of the syringe is carried out in the direction of extrusion, conditionally “towards itself.” Thus, the protrusion of the cut spout forms a semicircular hole on the seam and, rubbing tightly against the plastic, separates the excess. After application, you need to wait about 15 minutes and wipe the seam with a damp and new foam sponge, removing unnecessary sealant.
Outside corner protection at a glance
It is not recommended to bring the outer corners of plastic slopes flush with the plaster walls for the reasons described above – cracks will simply go. Instead, a two-piece corner trim kit is used. The fixing profile is simply nailed to the rail.
The overlay is inserted under the locating groove and pressed down until the rib with a snap fits into it. These profiles are connected at the corners with oblique trimming, which can be done both in the miter box and in place.
It is optimal if the edges of the wall are already leveled at the time of installation of the corner overlays and have had time to dry out. In this case, you only need to glue back the strips of wallpaper, and after installing the overlays, walk with the sealant along the oblique joints.