Do-it-yourself warm glazing of the loggia

Recommendation points

• Requirements for the design of the loggia
• Processing and preparation of the opening
• Preparation of frames before installation
• Docking a window block
• Installation of double-glazed windows
• Warm glazing junction

If you plan to insulate the loggia, it is better to start with the main path of heat outflow – the glazing front. We will tell you how to install really warm windows on the loggia, ensuring the tightness of the room, minimal heat loss, and most importantly – the durability of the entire window block.

Requirements for the design of the loggia

The supporting structures that form the loggia must allow the correct installation of the glazing system. We are talking about side walls and floor slabs, the mutual arrangement of which guarantees that the assembled glazing unit will fit in without protrusion outward in any part and with the formation of technological gaps of sufficient size.

Often, the ends of walls and floors are in the same plane, and the deviation from the normals allows the installation of the window block strictly in level due to gaps of variable thickness. As a rule, the main flaw in the structure lies in the uneven or simply incorrect displacement of the parapet relative to the plane of the building wall. The fact is that the frames of the warm glazing are installed flush with the inner surface of the fence to form a foam seam under the tide. In this case, the axial plane of the window block, as a rule, falls on the edge of the slab, which makes it impossible to perform reliable fastening. This, as well as the low bearing capacity of the fence, requires its strengthening or reconstruction..

The materials of the fences must allow for fasteners capable of withstanding a pull-off load of at least 400 N so that the frames do not deform from the weight of the open doors. Sometimes this requires determining the location of the reinforcement in the concrete slab and displacing the glazing plane accordingly..

Processing and preparation of the opening

The upper edge of the parapet must be at least 100–120 mm wide for correct installation of frames from a 70 mm profile. The surface should be flat with a tolerance of no more than 5 mm / m and a difference along the entire length of no more than 20 mm. If the masonry is made with warm bricks, it is better to plaster it from above, which will strengthen the fasteners and eliminate internal convection.

The edges of the loggia opening must be carefully defected: knock with a hammer on the subject of cavities or destroyed masonry elements. If the walls are plastered, they are cleaned to the base, excluding plaster peeling in the future and gaining precious centimeters for insulation. After troubleshooting, at the edges of the walls, you should mark the most favorable places for fixing the frame with a step of no more than 80 cm.

At the time of the installation of the loggia, all preparatory work must be done on it, dried residues of building mixtures must be removed and interfering parts of the fence dismantled. If the air conditioner route is laid along the wall, it must be sealed flush with the main plane.

Preparation of frames before installation

Each glazing module must be freed from double-glazed windows, having previously removed the glazing beads. The opening sash can be simply removed from the hinges without removing the glass unit, and after mechanical fastening can be hung back.

Initially, the entire box is collected profitably into a single front, holes are drilled for screeds and frame anchors of the main fastening, corner connectors for broken glazing are installed. After that, the individual parts of the block must be numbered and disassembled.

On the outer ends of each window, plates should be installed for preliminary fastening, and if it is impossible to perform direct concentrated fastening – reinforced metal plates with perforations. Also, you need to glue a waterproofing tape on the ends in advance so that the protection of neighboring modules lies with an overlap of at least 15 cm.

Before starting the installation, you need to fasten all additional accessories: handles, mosquito net holders, ventilation hole caps. An EPDM rubber seal is glued to the adjoining edges of the individual blocks.

Docking a window block

Parts of the window unit are installed and fixed in series, connecting them together at the installation site. First, temporary fixation of the extreme module is performed, which is aligned along the slope in the glazing plane and along the rubble. At 7–8 cm from the edges and under each impost, you need to install support blocks from a set of mounting wedges. Fastening is performed in the longitudinal hole of the temporary fixation plate, the dowel is not clogged tightly.

All other parts of the block have the same temporary fixing scheme. Clamps are used to connect the modules to each other; before snapping the locks, you need to align the frames along the bottom end by attaching the rail. First, the frame is docked, then the pad lining and temporary fastening, while each window is additionally adjusted in the installation plane.

When the entire block is fixed on temporary plates, by adjusting the height of the shoes, the lower frame profile is brought into a single horizontal line and shifts flush with the inner surface of the support brickwork. After that, the fastening is carried out with frame anchors through the upper row with an entry into the next one at least 20 mm. The attachment points are located no further than 5 cm from the support pads so that the frame does not deform when tightening.

When the bottom of the front is secured, you need to remove the general blockage, and then fasten it to the slab and walls. Usually, for this, all the same frame anchors are used, placing a set of mounting wedges of the corresponding thickness in each place. However, for materials such as PCB or aerated concrete, there is no other way out except for the distributed distributed fasteners by means of pre-installed reinforced plates. When the block is fixed thoroughly, the waterproofing tape is glued and all additional elements are installed. First, the slats are mounted in the places where the frame joins the walls. After that, the upper drainage visor and the overhead strip are installed, then the lower ebb is pasted over from the seamy side with soundproof tape and screwed to the frame at such a height that its edge rests on the outer edge of the fence.

Installation of double-glazed windows

Double-glazed windows help the frame to maintain rigidity and not deform under the influence of foam expansion, so they are installed immediately after the frame is mechanically secured. It is noteworthy that in such long glazing fronts, due to the stresses from the fasteners, the values ​​of the gaps between the package and the frame change. Therefore, it makes no sense to prepare sets of pads in advance – they still will not work..

The insulating glass unit is installed with a lining under the bottom of the distance plates 1.5 mm thick. After that, with the same plates, you need to select a gap from the upper tongue and position the glass unit exactly in the center with the formation of equal slots on the sides. These gaps are also subsequently selected by a set of shims..

After positioning each double-glazed window, it is closed by first installing short horizontal and then vertical glazing beads and snapping them in with a rubber mallet. If, when disassembling windows, there are strong deviations in the size of glazing beads, they must be marked in advance and then installed strictly in their places..

Warm glazing junction

At the end of the installation of windows on the loggia, a foam seam is formed. It is best to start from the top, where a wide, uneven gap usually forms and it may be necessary to spray foam in several stages. Seams should be filled 2/3 of their volume using foam for the appropriate season..

The bottom seam is the last to form. When spraying it, the foam must first be applied with a thin strip under the very edge of the parapet, wait 10-15 minutes and press down strongly on the ebb to stick it to the base. The final filling of the seam is carried out after an hour in small portions in order to exclude swelling of the ebb. The completion of the lower junction unit is carried out after the installation of the window sill and the thermal insulation device. At this stage, it remains only to apply a strip of foam 20-25 mm wide in the corner under the windowsill, thereby closing the thermal circuit.