- Where to install the washing machine
- We carefully read the instructions
- Preparing for installation
- Water connection
- Sewer connection
- Electrical connection
- How to keep the warranty
This article will answer all your questions about installing your washing machine yourself. After reading it, you will learn: how to choose and prepare a place for installation, how to connect it to the water supply, sewerage and power supply network, how to maintain the warranty, as well as a lot of useful tips from professionals.
The desire to save money on installing a washing machine is quite natural, because its purchase is not cheap anyway. And the prices for this service, which are called by sellers in stores – about 1000 rubles – do not quite correspond to reality. As a rule, the price does not include the cost of materials, electrical work and the laying of additional pipes. If all communications near the installation site are already available, then the specified amount may be enough, but if not, it’s good if you manage to keep within 5-6 thousand.
Installing a washing machine with your own hands is not so difficult. The necessary tool for this is usually found in every home or can be borrowed from neighbors. However, you need to have certain skills in working with electrical networks and plumbing. If there are none or you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to turn to specialists: the consequences of an unskilled installation are often dire, not to mention the danger of electric shock. For those who know how to handle keys and a screwdriver, it is recommended to read this article to the end: there are nuances in connecting a washing machine that it is important to know about in advance.
Where to install the washing machine
The most logical place to install a washing machine is in the bathroom. But the problem is that in most of our bathrooms there is an acute shortage of free space. In this case, you can install the machine under a special sink. These washbasins have a flat bottom surface, a rectangular shape and are equipped with special drains. There are washing machines specifically designed for this setup, but a regular model will do. The main thing is that its dimensions do not exceed 70 cm in height and 45 cm in depth. It is also necessary to observe two basic rules: firstly, the sink must protrude several centimeters beyond the dimensions of the machine; secondly, the drain pipe must not pass over the machine. Observe these rules to avoid water ingress on the case and subsequent short circuit.
When the described option does not fit, you can refuse the bathtub by changing it to a shower stall. The free space, as a rule, is quite enough if the cab width does not exceed 80 cm.
Washing machines are often installed in the kitchen. For this, built-in models with two doors are more suitable – a transparent inner and an opaque outer. However, you can install such a machine separately, or you can integrate it into the kitchen furniture, ordinary, suitable in size. The main thing is not to confuse the order of work: first install the washer, and then assemble furniture around it. At the same time, a gap of 1.5–2 cm should remain between the walls and the body. It is also advisable to provide a removable tabletop – this will make it easy to remove the machine for repair.
We carefully read the instructions
Even if you already have experience with installing washing machines, you should read the technical manual before starting work. The fact is that some points may differ for different models. First of all, this concerns the height of the upper drain point, the maximum size of the hose extension and which water supply system – hot or cold – this machine is connected to. The number and location of the shipping bolts also vary, and this must not be forgotten..
Preparing for installation
The washing machine can be installed on any floor, as long as it is level and strong enough. Installation on a wobbly wooden floor is not allowed, as this will increase the already significant vibrations that occur during washing. Therefore, if necessary, the floors must be strengthened and leveled..
To protect the drum of the washing machine from damage during transportation, it is fixed with special bolts at the factory. Before starting the installation, they must be removed, and the holes must be closed with plugs (they are supplied in the kit). Under no circumstances lose or throw away the bolts: you cannot transport the car without them, and then it will no longer be possible to return it to the store, deliver it to the service center or sell it.
The next thing to do at this stage is to screw on the inlet hose, since it will be difficult to do this later. This completes the preparation for installation..
In order for all the mechanisms of the washing machine to function without problems, it must be level. Deviation is allowed no more than 2 ° in any direction. If this value is exceeded, incorrect operation of the automation is possible and increased vibration is guaranteed, which can lead to breakdown. In addition, the body of the machine must not come into contact with walls and surrounding objects..
The machine is leveled by adjusting the legs, and the accuracy is checked using a level. This instrument can be made independently from a pharmacy vial by filling it with water and making two transverse marks with a marker at a distance of 5 mm from the center. The accuracy of a home-made level, as well as a purchased one, is determined simply: we put it on a flat surface, remember the position of the air bubble, and then turn it 180 °. If the readings are the same in both cases, the level can be used.
The adjusted feet must be locked to eliminate wobbling. It is undesirable to put anything under them, since these objects can move and slip out from vibration. However, if the floor still turned out to be too crooked, and the screws were not long enough, you can use plates made of durable material, attaching them to the floor with self-tapping screws or glue. In this case, the edges of the plates should protrude beyond the base of the legs by at least a centimeter.
A flexible hose is included for this purpose. You cannot connect the washing machine directly to the pipes, whatever they may be. Before starting work, do not forget to turn off the tap at the desired wiring site.
The easiest way to connect is by installing a straight-through valve between the pipe and the hose of the mixer or toilet bowl. This method is used when the machine is installed in the kitchen or in the combined bathroom. If this option is not suitable, you will have to crash into the pipe. The complexity of this task depends on the plumbing material. With metal-plastic, everything is simple: you can cut it with a hacksaw blade, and to put a tee, you need a pair of suitable keys. The procedure is as follows: a nut is put on the pipe, then a collet, after which the fitting of the fitting is inserted inside until it stops. This must be done carefully, so as not to break or move the rubber rings. We do the same manipulations at the end of the other pipe and tighten the nuts. There is no need to put great effort, trying to tighten as tight as possible: these nuts break easily. So when they go hard and in jerks, do another half-turn and enough.
For tapping into steel pipe, a saddle with a threaded outlet is usually used. The place of its installation must be carefully cleaned, and then a hole with a diameter of 8-10 mm must be drilled. Aligning the hole in the pipe with the saddle outlet, bolt both parts. It remains to pack the thread with a winding and screw on the tap or fitting. The described method is great for plastic pipes..
Among other things, you will need to install a strainer to prevent large pieces of rust and other debris from entering the washing machine. It is best to fasten it at the entrance to the apartment, but it is possible in another place, as long as water enters the car through it. And since the filter will have to be cleaned from time to time, access to it should be relatively free..
If the length of the complete hose is not enough, you should not build it up, it is better to make the liner with metal-plastic. In addition, the washing machine must be powered through a separate tap, which must be closed during standstill. Neglect of this rule is fraught with an unexpected flood: no matter how reliable the water intake valve is, it has every right to break.
The easiest option is to insert an oblique tee into the drain under the sink, and then connect a siphon and a washing machine drain to it. To do this, you will also need a sealing cuff, into which the hose is inserted to a depth of 5 cm, no more.
Another way is to install a special siphon with a drain under the sink. This option is more expensive, but guarantees the absence of an unpleasant odor from the sewage system: the water seal will not let it through. The disadvantage of this scheme is that the siphon tends to get clogged, and then water from the sink will flow into the washing machine. So pay attention that there is a check valve in its design. It is a mechanism that allows water to flow in only one direction. The valve must be cleaned periodically or it may jam..
A short hose can be extended by connecting to an extension with a rubber cap and a reversible fitting. For greater reliability, it is advisable to lubricate the joints with silicone or grab with clamps. If the throughput capacity of the sewage system leaves much to be desired, and the discharge of a large volume of water is accompanied by the breakdown of the hydraulic locks, this can lead to the suction of water from the washing machine and its self-draining. For example, when you drain the bath. In this case, instead of the union, it is better to use an anti-siphon valve..
The footage of the additional hose should not exceed the size specified in the instructions. Increasing its length will increase the load on the pump, which can disable it. You must either install the machine closer to the sewer, or bring a pipe to it. Another important point is the upper drain point. Any of the sections of the hose must be fixed at the manufacturer’s recommended height. As a rule, this is 60–100 cm. Exceeding this limit will complicate the operation of the pump, and a decrease will lead to self-draining.
If the sewage system is regularly clogged, then it is better not to connect the washing machine to it. In this case, the drain is made into the toilet, bath or sink – whichever is closer. In this case, the hose is fixed in the desired position using the guide, which is included in the kit.
The washing machine is powered from a separate electrical wiring line through an automatic 16 A. Core cross-section 1.5 mm2 quite enough, but 2.5 is better. It is advisable to use copper wires: they are not as brittle as aluminum ones, oxidize less and withstand a greater load with the same diameter.
If the apartment is under renovation, it is better to make the wiring hidden. Ideally, you will need a grinder and a punch for this, but you can get by with one punch. Make a groove in the wall about 3 cm deep and 10–15 cm from the ceiling. Then put the wire in it, securing it with dowel clamps so that it does not fall out. After that, the strobe must be covered. In a renovated apartment, this option will not work. To prevent the wires from spoiling the interior, you can lay them under the very ceiling and close them with a plinth, and bring them to the outlet in a cable channel.
The most responsible and risky stage is the installation of the machine and connection to the switchboard at the entrance. The golden rule of safety during electrical work is to stay out of the way, if you don’t know, it’s better not to break it, because your life can become the price of one awkward movement. In the absence of technical training, it is better not to risk it, lay the wire to the shield, and entrust its connection to specialists. Such work can be performed only when there is certain knowledge and experience..
The first step is to unplug the bag that powers your apartment. Screw the din rail into the free space and place the machine on it. Then carefully insert the wire into the shield, strip the ends and connect, observing the traditional procedure: the yellow core with a green stripe – to ground, the blue one – to zero. The third vein, intended for the phase, comes in different colors, most often brown. It must be connected to the lower terminal of the machine, and the phase from the bagger must be connected to the upper terminal using a jumper. To prevent the wire from dangling, gently grab it with a tie to the nearest bundle.
Unfortunately, the shields do not always have grounding. In this case, it makes sense to connect the machine to an RCD. In this case, the polarity must be strictly observed: the phase wire is connected to the linear terminal, and the zero wire to the neutral one. If there is grounding, the RCD also does not hurt, since it works best on the third wire. So in the event of a breakdown on the case, the protection will work even before someone touches the faulty machine.
How to keep the warranty
Read the warranty conditions carefully before you get started on your own. It happens that the manufacturer insists on installing the machine only by an authorized service. In this case, you will have to go there and contact, otherwise the guarantee will be lost. If only the wrong installation is stipulated, feel free to get to work. Of course, everything must be done in strict accordance with the instructions, since even minor deviations will result in loss of warranty. For example, exceeding the maximum permissible length of the drain hose, poor alignment or connection to a machine with a larger rating.
In the event of a breakdown, the specialist of the service center draws up an act on the condition of the machine, which also indicates all installation and connection errors. In this case, the owner has the right to express disagreement with some or even all of the points. It is necessary to reasonably state all the comments in the act and sign them. If you are sure that you did everything right, defend your rights.