Constantly gurgling water in the cistern and, as a result, money that is paid for water supply, flowing down the drain – a typical picture of a broken toilet. To solve this problem, you need to change the fittings for the cistern. How to do this and how to choose the one you need will be described in this article..
Everyone knows the sound of water pouring in the toilet. This sound indicates that it is time to repair the toilet. At first glance, the problem is very serious and insoluble without the appropriate knowledge and skills. However, this is only at first glance. In fact, repairing a toilet is most often the repair or replacement of broken cistern fittings. This procedure is simple and will not take you much time..
How does the flush cistern work? In fact, it has two independent devices installed in it – a filler valve (through which water enters the tank) and a drain column (it ensures the flow of water from the tank into the toilet bowl and, accordingly, flush). The combination of these two devices forms the valve for the toilet cistern. Various manufacturers offer their models with some unique designs, different shapes and colors. Despite such a variety, it is important to understand that almost all of them are universal (the probability that a universal fittings purchased in a store will suit you is about 95%). That is, knowing your type, you can easily buy the fittings you need in any plumbing store. In the framework of this article, fittings for built-in tanks are absolutely not considered. The fact is that they just do not fall into the above 95% of universal options.
And so, it remains only to find out what types of fittings are and how you can independently determine which one is needed in your case.
Types of valves for the cistern
Since the armature, as mentioned above, consists of two independent devices, the classification can be carried out according to:
- Filling valve type:
- with lateral inlet – the valve is mounted on the side wall of the tank. Accordingly, the filler line (flexible hose from the water pipe to the tank) fits from the side;
- with bottom inlet – the valve is mounted on the bottom wall of the tank. In this case, the eyeliner is connected from below..
- Column type:
- with a button – for flushing, you must press the button on the tank lid;
- with a stem – for flushing the stem with a decorative element at the end is pulled up.
It should be noted that push-button columns, in turn, are also divided into two types:
- Single flush – one button. When pressed, all the water contained in the tank is drained.
- Dual flush – for such a column, the button is divided into two parts. Pressing one flushes using only half of the water contained in the tank, the other causes a complete flush.
A valve for a double flush cistern is considered more economical – you can independently choose the desired mode. Columns with single and double flush are interchangeable, that is, nothing prevents you from buying and installing the one that suits you more, but it should be noted that the tanks have different displacement. If the volume is small, half flush may not be enough.
A hole with a larger diameter was made under the button fittings in the tank lid than under the rod. Therefore, in most cases, replacing a column of one type with a column of another will not work..
So, taking into account all of the above, we get six types of valves: with a stem with a side supply, with a stem with a bottom supply, with a single button with a side supply, with a single button with a bottom supply, with a double button with a side supply and with a double button with a bottom supply.
We should also dwell on the old-style fittings. Now there are still a lot of cisterns installed on a toilet with such fittings, or cisterns mounted on the wall and connected to the toilet with a pipe, in which old-style fittings are also mounted. It consists of a column with a stem (vertical or lateral) and a side fill valve. Due to the design features and softer requirements for efficiency, the drain column from such fittings cannot be replaced with a modern one. It remains either to repair and adjust the fittings for the tank so that water does not pass through, and this is very difficult to achieve, or just buy a toilet with a modern tank, which is more preferable, especially if you have a water meter installed.
To summarize, we will illustrate all types of fittings:
Filling valves. From left to right: bottom feed, side feed, old style
Drain columns. From left to right: push-button, with a stem, old model
How to choose fittings for the tank
Now let’s move from theory to practice. When the question arises of buying a new valve for the flush cistern, there is a completely natural desire to save some money. It often leads to some typical errors:
- Despite the fact that fittings are universal, their designs can vary greatly from different manufacturers. Therefore, it is wrong to try to find only one broken part. Most likely, you will not succeed, and you will only waste your time. The conclusion is to buy only the whole. As a last resort, bring the entire fitting (column or valve) with you to the store. There is a small chance that such a spare part will be found, for example, from defective fittings.
- It is wrong to look for fittings for your specific tank, that is, exactly what it was. It is here that it is important to remember that they are universal, which means that knowing your type, with a high probability, any universal type of your choice will suit you..
This raises the question of how to determine the type of your reinforcement?
To determine the type of filler valve, just look at your tank, namely, where the flexible water supply hose is connected to it. If it is on the side, then you have a valve with a side supply. If there is no hose on the side, then the valve is with bottom feed. Look under the tank and see for yourself.
To determine the type of flush column, pay attention to what action is performed when flushing. If you press the button, then the button, if you pull the stem, then the column with the stem.
Determine the type of your fittings and choose your appropriate name (one of the above) – you will need to inform the seller about it when buying.
Most likely, the store will offer you a choice of several options from different manufacturers and, accordingly, with different prices. What to choose?
The price range is wide enough – from 150 rubles. up to several thousand. In order to choose a quality one and not overpay, you should pay attention to several nuances:
- All connections of parts with each other must be strong. Detachable, as a rule, snap-on, should fit tightly into each other with a characteristic click. Non-detachable should not have backlash.
- The gaskets must be of good quality. Feel them. Soft, plastic and at the same time elastic, speak of the quality of both the gaskets themselves and, accordingly, the reinforcement in general.
- Completion – the fittings of acceptable quality come with all the parts necessary for installation, including the bolts that fasten the tank to the toilet. In some cases, fittings are completed with spare parts (usually gaskets). Pay attention to the quality of the small things. Unscrupulous manufacturers do not pay due attention to it. As a result, the quality of the components is low. This should alert you.
Generally speaking, you need to know that the price for rod valves of acceptable quality starts from 10 cu. e., for push-button – from 15 usd. e. At a price of 30 USD That is, you can buy very good fittings with an increased resource (as a rule, this is reflected in an increased warranty period).
So, the fittings are purchased, it remains to mount it.
Replacement of fittings
Replacement of fittings begins with dismantling the old one. In some cases, there is no need to completely change the fittings. It is enough, for example, to change only the drain column or the filling valve. If you change the column, you will have to completely remove the tank. Replacing the filler valve does not require this. In any case, you must first dismantle the old elements. Let’s consider this process in full step by step using a specific example. Take the following toilet as a test sample:
It can be seen that his armature is one-button with a bottom feed. Any replacement procedure, including a rod one, for example, with a side feed, will not differ much from that described. Differences in operations will be indicated.
All work begins with shutting off the water at the inlet to the tank or the entire water supply line. After that, it is necessary to flush the water in the tank into the toilet..
1. Dismantle the button. In our case, it turns counterclockwise. It happens that the button is attached to the tank lid. In this case, the cover will be removed without dismantling it. Then just go to the second step. For rod valves – we turn off the decorative knob on the rod and unscrew the cover that covers the hole in the tank through which the rod passes (of course, if it was screwed on).
2. Remove the cover and see the following picture. In the center there is a drain column. On the side is the filler valve. If the length of the supply hose is sufficient to remove the tank and put it on top of the toilet bowl, then proceed to the next step. Otherwise, turn off the eyeliner.
3. Dismountable drain column – consists of two parts. To make it easier to carry out the work, we dismantle the upper part. To do this, turn it 90 ° (it will detach from the bottom with a snap-off):
and take out:
The bottom of the column will remain inside. On the sides of it, you can see the caps of the bolts that attach the cistern to the toilet..
4. Unscrew the fastening nuts under the tank. As a rule, this can be done simply by hand..
A small amount of water will remain after draining. When you unscrew the nuts, this water will flow out. So put a rag on.
5. Nothing prevents now to raise the tank up and put it on the toilet for the convenience of subsequent work.
A sealing gasket remained at the landing site:
6. Dismantling of the tank in our case could be done without first disconnecting the liner. If it is necessary to change the filler valve, then we perform this operation now.
The flexible hoses can be rolled and turned by hand. The key is used only if absolutely necessary.
7. Unscrew the column mounting nut:
and valve nut:
8. We take out everything from the tank. Here, in fact, this is the dismantled fittings:
Now you can start installing the new fittings. All operations are performed in the reverse order, the only caveat is that for convenience, it makes sense to put the gasket between the cistern and the toilet on the fastening nut before installation.
The entire operation takes five to ten minutes. Threaded connections, as mentioned, are tightened by hand and only tightened with a wrench if necessary.
You can endlessly try to repair the old leaking fittings, every month being surprised at the huge bills for the consumed water, or you can spend 10 minutes and solve the problem for a long time, simply replacing the fittings completely. How to do it, you now know.