- Technological benefits of installations
- Steel frame fastening
- How to supply water and drain
- Bowl lining and installation
Hanging toilets are an example of good, convenient and practical plumbing. All conversations about the complexity of installation and connection of installations are myths, because even with the simplest household tool, very specific installation problems can be solved. Let’s talk about how to install a do-it-yourself toilet installation.
Technological benefits of installations
The installation of a toilet bowl is called a network of hidden communications, including a container and a flush mechanism, a connecting pipe and a supporting frame. It is believed that installations can only be installed for wall-hung toilets, but this is by no means the case..
The most advantageous installation of the installation is seen from an aesthetic point of view. The toilet loses the cistern, and all the things that are unsightly to the eye – the drainage outlet and the water supply hose – are hidden inside the cavity of the false walls.
1 – module frame; 2 – telescopic legs; 3 – flush tank; 4 – holders for wall mounting; 5 – drain sewer pipe; 6 – toilet seat studs; 7 – water supply pipe
In most cases, all rough plumbing can be installed next to the installation: distribution manifolds for water supply and heating, metering devices and shut-off valves. The false wall, hiding the structural elements, may not continue to the ceiling itself, forming a shelf for all sorts of things and a niche for installing a water heater.
Steel frame fastening
The installation should be started before the wall cladding and the assembly of the profile frame. By design, most of the installations are very similar, although there are also very original twin options for hanging a pair of “toilet bowl + bidet”. Or, for example, extended frames for attachment to side walls, if the front one is not capital.
To install the frame, you need to draw a line on the floor parallel to the plane of the future wall, but with a backward offset by the thickness of the false wall and cladding. The frame for the cladding can be constructed either flush with the front plane of the frame, or on top of it. It depends on the permissible maximum passage thickness according to the product data sheet and the fasteners used.
w – installation width; h is the total height of the installation; d – depth; a – floor level after laying the floor covering; b is the distance to the facing plane; c – position of the installation center
When the frame is in line, you need to align it across by adjusting the telescopic legs. After that, the points of attachment of the support pins in the upper part are outlined according to the coincidence of the mounting holes and the presence of free space on the wall.
We make holes with a puncher according to the marks and put the installation in place. Fastening should be done with 10–12 mm anchoring boots, and if the wall or floor is wooden – with non-hardened steel pins with a length of 70 mm. After fixing the brackets of the support pins and legs of the frame, you should make its final adjustment in three planes, and then tighten all the nuts well.
However, one should not rush to start installation from the frame. Since the front wall almost always has additional technological significance, it makes sense to first organize everything to connect the toilet bowl to the water supply and drain, and then proceed to the mechanical part.
How to supply water and drain
There is an opinion that flexible connections of any kind are absolutely not applicable for installations. This is partly true, but not very true for plumbing. Now on the market you can find products of reputable manufacturers, whose flexible connections are very reliable and have a service life comparable to PP-R pipes. Therefore, if the watershed point of the system is close to the cistern, it is easier to connect it with a flexible method..
Among other things, flexible connection makes it possible to timely prepare communications for almost any installation model. The only thing is that the shut-off valves must be installed as close as possible to the tank in order to have access to it through the service opening, or behind a separate inspection hatch.
After fixing the tank, connect a drain gander to it, pull the rotary part of which with a clamp to the crossbar of the frame.
With a drain outlet, everything is more complicated: common corrugated pipes are not suitable for connection. This area of the installation remains unattended, everything must be packed, as they say, conscientiously. However, standard polypropylene fittings for 110 mm risers allow this to be done relatively easily with an internal cavity width of 350 mm.
If the tee is located on the front wall opposite the installation site, the task is solved by two standard elbows at 87 °. If the receiving socket is displaced to the left or right, or does not correspond to the height, a piece of pipe with a socket, located at an angle, is added between the taps. If the cavity inside the false wall is wider than the minimum value, instead of adding a socket, bends at 45 °, 30 ° or 15 ° are used in different combinations.
If the socket of the pipe comes out at one of the side walls, it must first be brought to the corner and turned upwards with taps at 87 °. One more bend is inserted into the outermost of them at 45 °, and a piece of pipe, which follows an inclination to a certain level.
Which one? This is, in fact, the main issue in preparing for installation installation. Here you need to know the difference in height between the toilet seat and its drain. When the inclined drain channel reaches the level of the drain pipe, add another 87 ° turn by turning the bell towards you. Thanks to three swivel joints, the entire structure remains adjustable over a fairly wide range. All that remains is to install the transition cuffs that come with the toilet bowl into the socket and then fix it on a special plastic stand when the frame is already mounted. For any configuration, the total pipe slope must be at least the recommended 2 cm / m.
Bowl lining and installation
The frame is made of a thin-walled profile pipe, therefore, the profile can be attached to it with ordinary lm self-tapping screws, or more powerful screws with a boring head. An example of a well thought-out installation system is when the adjusting nuts are located on the inner or rear surfaces of the frame. On the sides and front, they will interfere with the installation of the frame or sheathing, so make sure that nothing interferes with the tight fit of the profiles.
The rest of the false wall frame is mounted from PS and PN profiles (50 mm), as well as for an uninsulated partition. For a number of installations, it is allowed not to arrange additional inspection holes, if full access to the flush system can be obtained by removing the decorative panel of the button. Otherwise, especially if other serviced fittings are hidden inside, it is necessary to provide cells for hatches in the frame.
In order to most simply and quickly overlay the front wall with tiles, while leaving a number of neat passages, you need to start the cladding only with one sheet of gypsum board, through which the studs are threaded in protective covers. You only need to lay out 4–6 tiles, covering a space 200–250 mm from the center of the drain hole to a height of 40–50 cm from the floor. Naturally, the drain gander and the transition cuff must be removed for a while..
After the glue dries, the centers of the two through holes are transferred to the front side by the location of the pins. Now they can be painlessly drilled with a ballerina, even if the hole is two or four tiles according to the layout. This method will be especially useful for thin designer items with a narrow neck that does not completely cover the groove on the wall..
This technique does not apply to drain buttons: most cover panels have wide masking margins. To overlay the lead-through flange, the tiles can be cut with a conventional grinder with a tolerance of up to 5 mm.
Installing the bowl is very simple: you just need to put it on the studs, remove the protective covers, and then tighten the nuts, placing shock-absorbing washers under them. Both holes have rubber seals that press well on their own, the main thing is not to overdo it with tightening force.