- Opening measurements and ordering a window
- Preparation for work
- Preparation of a plastic window
- Preparation of a window opening
- Installation of a window block
- Fastening through the frame
- Fastening with plates
- Assembling a plastic window
- Installing a window sill
To properly install a plastic window with your own hands, you need to select the necessary tools and materials, know the correct sequence of actions and not be afraid to do this work yourself. Then you can safely count on the maximum service life without regard to the quality of installation..
Opening measurements and ordering a window
You need to get two basic dimensions: height and width of the opening.
Measure the width of the opening along the top edge in the middle and directly at the sill. The minimum value is taken. If there is a quarter – a protruding part from the outside of the opening – take measurements only along the inside of the opening. Measure a quarter additionally to make sure that it will not go over the glass unit.
Measure the height of the opening from the top to the window sill: on the right, left and in the middle, choosing a lower value. Add to it the thickness of the window sill and the distance from it to the lower border of the opening.
Need gaps between the window block and the opening. The optimal clearance is 20 mm at the top and sides, 35–50 mm at the bottom. These values are subtracted from the measurements taken..
The window will be of the correct shape and should be installed strictly in level. Often the borders of window openings are beveled, so use a level to find a horizontal plane and mark it with a thread stretched inside the opening along the uppermost border. Use plumb lines to determine the vertical planes around the edges. Check that even taking into account the possible skewing of the opening, the selected dimensions fit with the presence of gaps. After that you can order ready-made windows.
Preparation for work
It is allowed to install plastic windows at any time of the year. Cloudy but not rainy weather in summer, late spring or early autumn is ideal..
Instruments should be prepared:
- bubble level, plumb lines or laser level (laser level);
- saw, jigsaw;
- crowbar, nail puller, chisel;
- a hammer;
- a hammer drill with a 10 or 16 mm drill and a shovel attachment;
- drill or screwdriver;
- drill 10 or 16 mm, drill 4 mm;
- wide paint brush;
- vacuum cleaner;
- gun for polyurethane foam;
- construction knife;
- wooden or plastic wedges.
- anchors 150 / 200×10;
- mounting plates;
- galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer and a drill bit 25 / 35×6;
- impact screws 60×6 and plastic dowels;
- professional demi-season foam (winter);
- vapor-permeable self-adhesive tape;
- PSUL (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape);
- deep penetration primer on concrete or masonry.
There are several fasteners on each side. The permissible maximum distance between them is 70 cm, the optimum is 40 cm. The distance from the edge is 10-15 cm, two fasteners on the sides of the impost (central profile post) from above and below and additional fasteners between them.
Empty the room and cover the rest of the furniture with plastic wrap. Place a layer of polyethylene or cardboard under the opening, but so that it does not slide entirely on the floor. For reliability, it is better to grab it with tape, you have to walk on it with weights and fragile double-glazed windows in your hands.
Preparation of a plastic window
If it is supposed to be installed on an anchor through a profile, then dismantle all swing doors and double-glazed windows in blind doors..
On the hinges, remove the decorative caps and unscrew the fixing bolts, then, carefully and evenly pulling the sash towards you, remove it and set it aside, leaning against the wall at a slight angle.
To remove a double-glazed window, it is necessary to carefully pry off the plastic glazing beads with a spatula. First, longitudinal, and then transverse. The package is gently squeezed out from the back side until the assistant can grab it by the ends.
Determine the positions where the anchors will be located and using a drill and a 10 or 16 drill, drill holes in the end of the profile.
In the case of mounting with mounting plates, nothing needs to be removed. It is enough to fasten them in the attachment points with two self-tapping screws to the end of the window profile so that they are strictly perpendicular to the plane of the window.
It is imperative to correlate the position of the fastening on the window with the reciprocal position at the end of the window opening. As a result, anchors and dowels should not fall into the seam, only into the body of a brick, cinder block or slab.
Combined fastening on the sides with anchors, and above and below with fastening plates is allowed.
Put the support profile on the bottom end.
Preparation of a window opening
After dismantling the old window and slopes, there should be bare walls around the perimeter of the window opening without remnants of a sealant or fasteners from old windows. Any irregularities, mortar protrusions or bricks extending beyond the plane of the end face should be carefully chopped off or cut off. The entire surface should be cleaned of dirt and dust and thoroughly primed.
Installation of a window block
A plastic window is inserted into the opening. To comply with the required dimensions of the gaps around the perimeter and setting the level, wooden or special plastic wedges are used. The window should be 15–20 mm from a quarter.
Insert wedges in the corners and directly under the impost so as not to deform the profile by bending it inward.
Align the structure along three axes: vertically and horizontally in the plane of the window and vertical in the plane perpendicular to the window opening.
Fastening through the frame
Mark and drill through anchor holes, openings, or mounting plate attachment points.
Remove the window and drill anchor holes in the wall with a punch.
Reinstall the window, re-level it using wedges. Install the wedges additionally, but without much pressure near each fastener.
Insert the anchors and gradually tighten them, first along the upper border, then along the sides and bottom. Do not tighten the anchors forcibly. It is enough to bring it close to the profile and even unscrew it back a third of a turn.
Fastening with plates
The plates are bent for the first time along the line equal to the edge of the profile and the second time in contact with the wall so that the transition section is at most one third larger than the gap size, but not equal to it.
Directly through the lugs on the plate, drill holes for the dowel in the wall and fix it with an impact screw or anchor.
Assembling a plastic window
If the window was attached to the anchors through the profile, then after fixing, assemble everything in the reverse order. Insert insulating glass and sashes.
Check the operation of all mechanisms. Close the flaps tightly. The next time the window can be opened only after the polyurethane foam has completely dried, after 1–2 days.
The sequence of sealing the gap outside and inside:
- polyurethane foam;
- vapor barrier film.
On the outside of the plastic window, between the profile and the quarter, or along the edge of the end and the window opening, PSUL tape is glued. Gently pry up and wrap 2cm of protective film on the adhesive side. Insert and secure the tape at one of the bottom corners of the window. Lay the strip around the perimeter and, gradually removing the film, press the PSUL to the window. Then remove the protective film so that the strip begins to expand. Bottom PSUL is attached from the end.
On the inner side of the window along the edge, fix the vapor-permeable film, removing the protection from the adhesive side only partially.
Fill the gap with polyurethane foam from the bottom up. Fill in gradually by 20-30 cm and then break until the foam gains volume. The filled gaps are sealed with a vapor-permeable film.
Installing a window sill
The plastic sill snaps onto the support profile and the end of the window profile. After that, the farthest part of the cavity under the windowsill is foamed until it dries completely. The foam will press down on the windowsill. Next, spacers are installed from mounting plates or plastic, wooden stops and the remaining space is foamed.
After 1-2 days, you can move on to plastering or finishing the slopes.