- Tools and materials
- Preparatory work
- Technique for applying plaster to window slopes
- Slope putty
- The final stage
Plastering window slopes is a simple matter, and if you decide to make window slopes yourself, then to get even corners and a beautiful opening, you need to know some nuances. With patience and carefully following all the rules, you can cope with this task without outside help..
The principle of plastering slopes is the same for the outer and outer sides of the window opening.
Tools and materials
For plastering slopes, the following tools are required:
- a drill with a mixer attachment for mixing plaster and putty;
- stainless steel spatulas: wide – exceeding the width of the slope, medium – (60–80 mm) for throwing plaster mortar, and narrow – up to 50 mm for puttying in hard-to-reach places;
- measuring tool: building level (spirit level), corner 90 °, tape measure;
- for finishing and leveling: sander or float with attachments for sandpaper or abrasive mesh.
From the materials you need to purchase:
- dry plaster mix;
- putty for finishing works;
- plastic window slats;
- galvanized plaster corner profiles and perforated aluminum corners;
- deeply penetrating primer for plaster and putty.
Before starting work on plastering the slopes, it is necessary to close the window frames with transparent film and masking tape. The window sill must also be installed and covered from dust and dirt with a film. The base of the slopes is cleaned of old plaster. On the new brickwork, the protruding parts of the cement mortar are knocked off with a pick or hammer. Remove the foam with a construction knife.
Then the surface of the slopes is treated with a deep penetrating primer for the plaster mixture. In the event that the slopes are plastered with a cement-sand mortar, it is enough to moisten the surface with water. This procedure can be done with a paint brush, roller or spray..
Next, galvanized metal corner plaster profiles are installed. Profiles are set using a level in two planes and fixed with plaster mortar. First, the profile is aligned in relation to the wall, and then in relation to the slope. The correctness of the exposed profiles is double-checked with a construction square. One side of the square is applied to the window frame, and the other edge should touch the corner profile. Installed extreme plaster profiles will serve as beacons for plastering slopes and walls, as well as protect corners from mechanical damage.
A special plastic strip is glued to the window frame. It has an adhesive strip and two perpendicular shelves. One shelf is aligned with the edge of the window frame, and the second serves as a beacon for plastering the slope.
Technique for applying plaster to window slopes
The dry plaster mixture is diluted with water and mixed in a bucket with a mixer. It should not be overly thin or thick. The consistency of the plaster mix resembles liquid curd. The plaster should not slide off the trowel blade.
The slope is treated with a deeply penetrating primer for better bonding of materials. If the slopes absorb moisture strongly, then they can be slightly moistened before applying the plaster..
The plaster mix is thrown onto the slope with a medium trowel and lifted upwards with a wide trowel. The edge of the wide trowel should protrude beyond the outer beacons. Excess plaster mortar is picked up with an average trowel and pounced on the places not filled with mortar. If you prefer, you can apply the mortar with a medium trowel to a wide trowel and thus apply to the slope..
After filling all the voids, it takes some time, and the slope is leveled with a wide spatula. Depending on further finishing work, the slope can be rubbed with a float or do nothing. When finishing slopes with ceramic tiles or panels, there is no need for grouting. Small irregularities in this case do not matter..
Gypsum plaster is moistened with a sponge and leveled with a spatula.
After plastering and drying the slopes, you can start puttingty. You will need two types of putty – coarse starting and fine finishing. Aluminum perforated angle, spatulas, drill with mixer and grinder.
Plastered slopes are impregnated with a primer solution. The starting dry putty is stirred in water until the state of heavy cream.
The aluminum corner is cut according to the dimensions of the outer corners of the slopes. A thin layer of starting putty is applied to the corners, on which the perforated corners are tightly pressed. The protruding excess putty mass is removed with a spatula and thrown onto the empty space.
After drying and fixing the corners with a medium spatula, apply the putty mass on a wide spatula and apply it to the slope plane. If the plastering work has been carried out quite responsibly, then it is enough to make a thin first layer of putty of 2-3 mm. The diluted putty does not lose its plastic properties within an hour. Therefore, the first layer of putty must be carefully leveled and smoothed..
After the first layer of the starting putty has dried, the surface is treated with a primer again, after which dry it can be applied the finishing putty.
The finishing putty has a more delicate texture. With its help, you can hide and fix the flaws of the first layer. The technology of applying the finishing layer is similar to that of the first. If necessary, several layers of putty are applied for perfect alignment of the slope plane.
The putty surface is processed with a grinder with replaceable abrasive mesh or manually with a float. The mesh gives the best effect when sanding, since the sandpaper used for this purpose quickly clogs and becomes unusable.
The final stage
At the final stage, the surface of the putty slopes is again impregnated with a deeply penetrating primer and, after drying, is ready for painting, whitewashing or wallpapering.
Also for the final finishing of the slopes, ceramic tiles, plastic sandwich panels, laminated lining and other materials are used. In this case, it is not necessary to putty the slopes..