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Installation of an interior door

Installing an interior door is an important home improvement project, and the right choice of door can make or break the overall decor of a room. Interior doors come in a variety of styles, materials and sizes, and one needs to select the most suitable door considering the room dimensions, style and function. To properly install an interior door, it is important to have the right tools and accessories such as a saw, drill, screws and hinges as well as a mallet or rubber hammer. Following the instructions from the door manufacturer, one needs to correctly position the door. Once the door is placed correctly, mounting and attaching the hinges is the next step. Lastly, the door frame needs to be secured properly, and the doorknob and door latch should be installed. An interior door is an important component of interior design, and a successful installation ensures a long lasting, aesthetically pleasing result.

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Step-by-step instructions on how to install an interior door.

Tool

The tool required to install the door: mounting (nail puller), wood saw with fine teeth, drill (preferably with a hammer), screwdriver, square, miter box, chisel, hammer, pencil, tape measure, drills 3mm, 6mm, and 6mm with a victorious tip and level.

Installation of an interior door

Dismantling

In case you decide to change the door. We proceed to dismantling, remove the old platbands using a pry bar and a hammer. If you have a door block, then I advise in order to make your work easier, cut it on one side so it will be much easier to remove it from the opening with less damage to the walls. After removing the box, clean the opening and you can start assembling a new door block or frame.

Assembling the door block (box)

We proceed to the assembly, first of all we need the size of the canvas (in width), take, for example, a standard door 600 ร— 2000mm. The width of the canvas is 60 cm, we cut off the upper part of our box 60.6 cm if we use a joint with cutting out a quarter, if we use a joint at 45 degrees, then the inner part of the quarter must correspond to this size. In the case of connection with cutting out a quarter, the side parts are made according to the following calculations 200 cm door height plus 0.6 cm plus the thickness of the box together with a quarter on average it is 2.5 cm and the lower part is 60 cm plus 0.6 cm if we have a door block if just a box without a bottom parts, then the left right is made from the following calculations 200cm plus 0.3cm plus 0.8 for the gap between the door and the floor.

So, we cut out all the parts of our box, we need to twist them together, for this we need to cut out the protruding part of the quarter to the width of the box. We join the top and the left to the right with the help of a square and control 90 degrees between them. We drill through at the junction to the left and right with the upper part, so that the drill would also drill the upper part, this will make it easier for you to twist the self-cut and prevent cracks from appearing in the box at the moment of twisting. Two such holes must be made at each joint left right top bottom. Now that we have rolled up our box, we need to attach the awnings.

Door assembly

We take the canvas (the door itself), we determine which door we will have left or right, and mark from the top and bottom of the door at 20,25,30,35 cm to choose from, this will be the mark where your awnings will be attached. We put the door on the priest so that it is more convenient to cut out niches for awnings. We press the canopy in the unfolded state to your mark, one edge of the canopy along the mark, the other is directed towards the middle of the door, set it as even as possible, the moving part of the canopy should move freely. We outline the canopy with a pencil. We take a chisel and a hammer, first we put the chisel vertically, along your line of the outlined canopy and with a hammer we punch the veneer with a chisel, to a depth of about 1-1.5 mm, be very careful so as not to spoil the appearance of the door.

When you pierce the entire contour with a chisel, carefully remove the veneer layers with a chisel, lightly tapping on it with a hammer, and so in the future remove layer by layer until you reach the desired depth, sufficient for laying the canopy so that it is flush with the door leaf. It is better to drill holes for self-cutting, before screwing the canopy to the door, use the canopy as a template, marking the places for drilling with a 3mm drill. When the awnings are attached to the door, we put the door into the box, align the gap between the door and the frame on top of the door, it should be 3mm, and mark on the box with a pencil where the awning will be attached. We take out the door and untwist the box. We take that left right, on which the awnings will be attached and, just like on the door, we outline the outline of the canopy, we do everything the same way, we cut it out, drill it, but do not screw it, screw the canopy to the door.

Installation

For installation, you will need straight long hangers, which are used to attach the metal profile. Fasten them with a 4.2 ร— 13 self-cut with a press washer, from the inside of the box. They will be used to attach the box to the walls of the opening, so as not to spoil the appearance of the door frame with holes for anchors or self-cuts.

Interior door

First of all, you need to fix the side of the door frame on which the awnings are located. We fix it strictly according to the level. We fix the hangers on the wall by drilling holes, inserting plastic snorkels of plugs and self-cuts into them. Immediately placing wooden blocks between the wall and the box in order to better fix the box and level it. Once we have secured the guide, we hang the door. We install and fix the second side of the box on the vestibule, that is, so that the door can be easily closed and opened. Once the box is secured, you need to foam it.

To avoid deformation of the door frame in order that the foam can expand it, install spacers. We make a centimeter wider than the width of the door and with the help of cardboard liners, no matter what damage the veneer on the box, we expand it, setting them at an angle. In order not to stain the box with foam, glue the side with molar tape. Now we are all foaming the door and waiting at least 6 hours, better than 12 hours, then we remove the spacers and cut off the foam, you can attach the platband and cut in the handle.

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Comments: 1
  1. Samuel Palmer

    Is it possible to install an interior door without professional help, and if so, what are the essential steps and tools needed to successfully complete the installation process?

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