Installing a kitchen sink: how to embed a sink into a countertop

Recommendation points

• How the sink is installed
• Marking
• How to quickly and accurately cut a hole for a sink
• Installation of a sink and its connection
• Professional editing tricks

Kitchen renovations cannot be completed until a sink is embedded in the countertop. In this article, we will present you a step-by-step process for installing a sink in the kitchen: how to make the correct markings, how to cut a hole in the countertop and how to achieve a truly competent installation of the sink.

How the sink is installed

You should start installing the sink yourself only if this service is not included in the tabletop manufacturer’s price list. It is quite possible to do such work at home, but attention should be paid to some non-obvious points that are known only to professional furniture assemblers..

So, the sink is installed in the countertop using the insert method. First, a hole is cut according to the exact dimensions in the center of the pattern, its edges are properly processed. Then the sink is inserted, its body is fixed to the back side with special fasteners, and the gap between the metal and the countertop is carefully sealed. At the end of the installation, the installation of finishing plumbing, a sewer siphon or a waste grinder is carried out.

There are three main requirements for the installation of a sink: fastening strength, tightness and thorough sealing against moisture. Chipboard with a thickness of 40–60 mm is most often used as the basis for countertops. This material is very sensitive to high humidity, which is very typical for the washing area. Due to poor-quality installation, the edges of the holes dry out, which may require replacing the entire tabletop or even the entire headset.

Marking

The sink should be centered in the middle of the depth of the countertop, offset to the left and right for the most convenient position. The distance from the edge of the sink to the edge of the countertop should not be less than 50–70 mm, otherwise the sink should be moved a little deeper. It is not recommended to indent less than 30–40 mm from the corner plinth, otherwise it will be difficult to wipe the surface in this place. When installing the sink in the corner section, it is useful to leave a distance of 100-140 mm from both walls in order to get a small space for conveniently placing household chemicals and washing utensils.

Some manufacturers supply their products with installation templates, some do not. If there is a template, it must be glued to the front side of the countertop, slightly moistening the surface with water. This will help to avoid accidental shifting and to complete the layout without assistance. The template usually indicates the width of the sink rim, otherwise it must be measured and marked for visual control of the porch.

If the template is missing, the sink must be turned over and installed on the countertop, carefully observing the indents. The sink should be circled with a water-soluble marker and removed, and then the contour line should be shifted inward by the width of the rim. If the bowl does not follow the outer contours, which is found in sinks with a drying tray, the marking lines must be shifted a certain distance on each side. If two sinks or a waste compartment are combined in one block, a common hole is cut for them.

How to quickly and accurately cut a hole for a sink

Immediately, we note that with a household tool, you can cut a hole only in a chipboard or solid wood worktop, regardless of the type of coating. Stronger materials such as silicon agglomerate require specialized cutting tools and attachments.

First, you need to drill several holes with a diameter of 10–12 mm in the worktop near the marking line, but without crossing it. Usually 4 holes are drilled at diametrically opposite points of the contour or at the corners of a rectangle. It is imperative to start drilling from the front side so as not to pull out a large section when the drill comes out.

To cut a hole for a sink, you will need an electric jigsaw with a file at least 8 mm wide and a tooth length of about 1.4–2 mm. It is better to choose the opposite direction of the tooth so that no chips form on the front surface during sawing. And although the sink rim covers a strip 12–20 mm from the edge, some countertop surfaces behave unpredictably and give a rather long crack.

First, a hole is cut on two opposite sides, then a small chipboard or wood strip is laid across the cutting lines. It is attracted by self-tapping screws to the cut-out part of the tabletop and keeps it from falling at the end of the cut. After installing the strip, it is necessary to complete the cutting of the fragment and remove it. An open cut, all chips and unprotected edges are abundantly treated with transparent silicone, leaving a layer of at least 0.5 mm, and allowed to dry.

Installation of a sink and its connection

Almost all sinks are equipped with tape seals, but they are quite hygroscopic and accumulate moisture in themselves, creating conditions for the development of mold. Instead of standard seals, manual sealing with silicone sealant is required.

With an indent of 1–2 mm from the edge of the hole, a silicone flagellum is extruded onto the tabletop in a circle, the thickness of which is 2–3 mm more than the height of the sink rim. Another flagellum is applied at a distance of 10 mm from the first. The silicone should be left for 30-40 minutes, until its surface no longer sticks to your hands. Then the sink is installed in the hole, its edges are carefully pressed down, giving the silicone the desired shape. The sink must adhere tightly to the worktop along the entire perimeter, otherwise it may twist a little when tightening the fasteners. After 5-10 minutes, the sink must be removed and make sure that the silicone has not burst or spread. Thus, a double continuous rim is formed on the tabletop, excluding the ingress of water inside, while the sink can be easily dismantled.

Before the final installation and fixing of the countertop, it is necessary to mount the fittings on it, access to which will be difficult with the bowl, that is, the mixer and the overflow hose, if any. But the siphon or shredder is much more convenient to attach to the installed sink, so that it can be held during installation by the open drain hole.

To secure the sink, it has steel hinges located along the contour of the bowl in an amount of 4 to 10 pieces. They are threaded with screw clamps in the form of paws, the edges of which should be oriented outward. After that, the sink is lowered into the hole and finally leveled, then the screws are tightened, tightly pressing the sides to the tabletop.

Professional editing tricks

The main difficulties in installation arise when making a hole: if the gap between the edge of the tabletop and the bowl is too large, the legs of the fasteners may bend. If the hand is not firm, it is better not to touch the marking line when cutting, and, if necessary, adjust the size with a rasp.

When the sink is pressed down, the silicone should not burst. It is better to squeeze out a small drop from the tube in advance and observe how long it takes to form a sufficiently strong film on the surface.

Do not overtighten the fastening screws, especially if the clearance is too large. This leads to the fact that the sides of the sink are not pressed, but bend upwards. A small gap between the upstand and the worktop can also be sealed with silicone.