- Direct mount or wireframe
- What to make a frame from
- Phased installation of gypsum board on wooden walls
- Stage 1
- Stage number 2. Marking and surface preparation
- Stage number 3. Installation of the frame
- Stage No. 4. Installation of a heat insulator
- Stage No. 5. Facing of the GKL frame
- Stage number 6. Puttying
Drywall in cladding and wall alignment in a wooden house is the most commonly used material. But are there any peculiarities in the installation of gypsum boards on wooden walls, and can a non-professional finisher handle this? We offer detailed instructions for decorating wooden walls with plasterboard.
Wooden walls are rarely perfect. Aligning them with drywall is one of the most popular and budget options..
Direct mount or wireframe
Direct cladding of gypsum board walls is possible only with full confidence in the minimum shrinkage of the bearing surface. But this moment can in no way be attributed to wooden, log or plank buildings, since they are subject to significant deformation changes throughout life..
Deadly screwed or glued drywall will “walk” with the frame and its compressive strength is not enough to avoid cracks and material destruction. The only exceptions are buildings based on sawdust, chips, for example, frame buildings from OSB. Therefore, the wall cladding of the gypsum board in this case should occur exclusively on the frame.
But this also gives certain advantages:
- The surface is leveled without plastering.
- You can put any kind of insulation.
What to make a frame from
The frame can be assembled from wooden bars or from a metal profile.
You can make it from slats – it’s also cheap. But it is still better to use metal elements for this, although it will come out more expensive, but it is much less difficult in preparing the material for installation and its calibration, and also much more durable.
If you decide to carry out subframe insulation, but at the same time you do not have an external one, this idea should be left, or you should first very carefully calculate the dew point.
Simply put, the dew point is a place on the surface where warm air collides with cold air and precipitates as a condensate. Contrary to popular belief, even if the air in the room itself is absolutely dry, condensation will still occur, since the outside air has moisture.
In the middle of the wall, condensation is dangerous by its spread over the entire surface, the appearance of fungus and mold, as well as swelling of the gypsum board.
Therefore, if you insulate the walls from the outside and from the inside, then calculate the dew point in such a way that it falls on the external insulation.
Phased installation of gypsum board on wooden walls
Installation begins with drawing up a project plan.
- Preparation of materials and tools.
- Surface marking and preparation.
- Installing the frame.
- Heat insulator installation.
- Facing with GKL sheets.
- GKL or GKLV sheets (in rooms with high humidity).
- Guides PN (UW).
- Rack-mount PS (CW), if later you plan to hang heavy objects on the structure, it is better to take reinforced profiles, or put them in rack-mounted underlay wooden blocks.
- U-shaped hangers, perforated.
- Hardware – self-tapping screws for metal, self-tapping screws gypsum / wood.
- Start and finish putty.
- Screwdriver or drill with carrying.
- Marking thread, pencil.
- Construction knife or jigsaw.
- Metal scissors.
- Abrasive mesh.
- Roller for priming (“coat”).
Stage number 2. Marking and surface preparation
The first step is to prepare the base surface. This stage includes the removal of protruding and crumbling elements, sealing cracks, holes.
Often the wiring is laid inside the frame, but it is better to do this on top of the gypsum board in the case of wooden walls.
Using a level, define and outline with a pencil (or mark with a chopping thread) the lines of the guide profiles on the floor, walls and ceiling.
Mark the lines of the vertical posts – every 40-60 cm.
Make outlines of the location of the suspensions to which the rack profiles will be attached – every 50-60 cm.
Stage number 3. Installation of the frame
Using the markings made, install the guides with a screw pitch of 50 cm. Since the planes of their location are wooden, they need to be fixed with self-tapping screws, and not with dowels. Launchers are installed with shelves to the base. Next, screw the suspensions along the marks.
Insert the post profiles into the bores of the lower and upper guides, every 40–60 cm and fix them using piercing screws with a 13 mm press washer. Pull the horizontal control threads (with a distance of 100–120 cm between them) to control the level, and focusing on them, screw the profiles to the suspensions (bent in the shape of the letter “P”) with self-tapping screws for metal “bugs”. Bend the excess edges of the hangers back so that they do not protrude beyond the outer surface of the profiles.
Stage No. 4. Installation of a heat insulator
At this stage, it is also possible to place insulation in the interframe space by providing the profiles with transverse jumpers, according to the principle of cells.
Stage No. 5. Facing of the GKL frame
Before screwing the gypsum board, you need to prepare.
- Calculate the drywall panels so that each edge is in the middle of the rack profile shelf. If you need to trim, draw with a pencil a marking on their surface, and make an incision along it for the top layer of the sheets.
- Then break the panel at the place of the notch at an angle (so that the gypsum core bursts) and cut the back cardboard side.
Fasten the gypsum board to the frame with self-tapping screws with a screw pitch of 25-30 cm, with an indent from the edges of 2 cm. After installing the sheets, you need to remove the edge at an angle of 45 degrees if the edges of the drywall do not have a factory bevel.
Stage number 6. Puttying
Before applying the putty, the wall should be cleaned of assembly dust and primed. After the primer has dried, you can continue working.
Start by gluing the serpyanka to the seams, as well as covering it and the screw caps with a putty mixture.
Then apply a starter coat of putty using a 20–25 cm rectangular trowel. After it dries, prime the surface thoroughly.
Layers of finishing filler are applied on a scratch or overlap with a minimum thin layer on the surface. Usually one or two coats are required, with the second applied transversely relative to the first layer.
After drying, sand the walls with an abrasive mesh to a smooth state, then re-apply the primer.
So, the surface is ready for decorative cladding. It can be painted, pasted over with wallpaper, decorative panels can be fixed on it..
As you can see, the installation of gypsum board on wooden walls is not so difficult, and even a novice master can carry it out.