DIY plastering of window slopes

Recommendation points

• Why is a plaster slope attractive?
• What tools will you need to work
• The order of work
• Secrets of successful work

Plaster slopes are still in demand and relevant in finishing work. The technology of their manufacture is only at first glance complicated. In this article we will reveal some secrets, and you will understand that the manufacture of door or window slopes can be mastered even by a non-professional..

Why is a plaster slope attractive?

Plaster slopes have recently, if not at the peak of demand, then at least again in the field of vision of builders. The reason is in the advantages of monolithic plaster slopes over hollow ones made of plasterboard, plastic or even natural wood..

The advantages of plaster slopes are obvious:

• add stability to the frame;
• increase the level of noise insulation;
• prevent the penetration of dust through microcracks in the seam connecting the wall to the window frame;
• there are no cavities for the accumulation of moisture, which means that there are no conditions for the development of fungi and mold;
• no deformation due to temperature differences.

There are also visual advantages: the plaster layer can be painted in the same color as the frame, or even painted in different colors. There is an opportunity to dream up with the design of the window opening.

The disadvantages of plaster slopes are also obvious and they were the reason for some cooling of the builders to this technology. First of all, it attracts little dirt in the process of work – we have to deal with a cement-sand mortar. In addition, the process is somewhat extended in time. The final product, the slope, consists of several layers, each of which must be dried before proceeding with the next application..

What tools will you need to work

Having decided to make a plaster slope, prepare the following tools:

• a rule with a limiter – a malku or a special corner;
• the high rule is a lighthouse, the length of which is slightly more than the height of the window opening;
• grater and half grater;
• Master OK;
• swinging round brush or spray gun;
• container for solution and water.

At construction sites, a very simple tool is often used – a wooden block with one completely flat edge and a nail driven into one of the ends. This is malka. It can also be made of a strip of plywood, one end of which is cut out at an angle under the window frame ledge. Today, other devices in the form of corners can be found on sale, allowing you to make an “open” slope, that is, one that forms an obtuse angle with the frame.

Materials for plastering works:

• any of the cement-sand mortars with lime;
• gypsum;
• silicone sealant if the frames are made of plastic;
• polyurethane foam or insulation like construction wool.

The order of work

1. There is always a gap between the frame and the wall, which must be carefully sealed. It is because of the poor-quality thermal insulation of this gap that drafts are most often formed near the windows in the cold season. Seal the gap with special materials, for example, ecowool, cut into strips, or polyurethane foam.

2. A lighthouse is attached to the edge of the wall adjacent to the slope with the help of gypsum diluted in water. This is a board with a straight edge, which is applied flat against the wall facing the slope. Align its position vertically or horizontally – it depends on what part of the slope we do. The rule will rest on this lighthouse board with one end, removing excess mortar.

3. Slopes with the help of a bevel are made when the double-glazed windows have not yet been installed. The other end of it should rest on the surface of the hammered nail on the frame. In cases where the sashes are already mounted on hinges, use corner rules or special corner floats.

4. Before throwing in the mortar, it should be carried out as a rule, identifying at the end of the bumps protruding beyond the imaginary line of the future slope, and remove them with a hammer. Then the surface is moistened and covered with a solution. If the gap between the wall and the frame is wide, and the dawn of the slope is planned to be made more pronounced, then the solution should be thrown in two stages, each time removing the excess solution with the rule.

5. After the slope is leveled, remove the beacon rule by lightly tapping it with a trowel handle. Actions from the first to the fourth paragraph are repeated two more times: on the opposite and upper side of the window opening.

6. Some plastic windows tend to expand and contract depending on the temperature outside the window. In order to avoid cracks, a small notch is made in a fresh solution along the line where the slope meets the frame. It is filled with silicone sealant, removing the excess of the latter.

7. Immediately or after half an hour, when the solution grasps a little, form an angle formed by the slope and the wall adjacent to it. To do this, the existing irregularities are sealed with a solution and rubbed, and the angle is leveled with a grater and a half-grater. So that the sharp edge of the corner does not get lost in the future, it is cut off a little with a float until the solution has frozen.

8. A good solution without large fractions allows you to make the most even slope. If, nevertheless, there are any sinks and irregularities, they are closed up, applying a little solution with a trowel and rubbing it with a float. After the slope has completely solidified, the next day you can start puttingtying, and then painting..

Secrets of successful work

Working with plaster slopes requires knowledge of some nuances:

1. The wall surface should be well moistened, not just moistened with water. That is why they use a brush or a spray gun, from which spray penetrates into all the pores of the wall..
2. The mortar is not just laid, but thrown onto the surface, for better adhesion to the wall surface. This should be done with sharp, precise movements. This rule especially applies to the upper horizontal part of the slope, above the frame. It takes skill here.
3. In order for the solution to better adhere to the wall, plaster is added to it. This is especially appropriate when the upper horizontal part of the slope is being formed..
4. If the surface of the wall under the future slope is not brickwork, which has good adhesion to the mortar, but, for example, smooth concrete, then you should not level it immediately after pouring the mortar. It will be enough to spend once with a small or other rule, removing the excess, and leave the material to set for half an hour.

Strict adherence to the rules promises an excellent result – a strong and beautiful slope.