- Surface requirements
- Preparatory activities
- Working with different types of wallpaper
- First canvas sticker
- Sticking subsequent paintings
- Completion, trimming and moldings
If you are experiencing difficulties with wallpapering the ceiling or just want to know the correct procedure, our today’s instruction will be very useful. We will describe the process in detail to obtain an even coating with the most invisible joints, and most importantly – completely without hassle.
A wide range of finishing materials can serve as the basis for wallpapering, ranging from plaster to untreated OSB or gypsum board. Nevertheless, for the highest quality result, the surface must have a number of properties, such as strength, cleanliness, integrity, moderate hygroscopicity and uniformity of color..
The permissible roughness of the base is determined by the thickness of the wallpaper: the larger it is, the more rough irregularities can be hidden by the paper. For thin vinyl or paper wallpapers, leveling with a putty followed by sanding with a mesh of 80–120 grit is necessary. Heavier non-woven wallpaper can be adhered to cement plaster or cladding boards without prior leveling.
Priming the surface under the wallpaper is strictly required. First, it will make it easier to remove the wallpaper the next time you redecorate. On the other hand, a well-primed surface will not absorb the glue so quickly and there will be much more time left for manipulating the canvas. The optimal composition for priming under wallpaper is a mixture of wallpaper glue, primer for plaster and water in a ratio of 1: 1: 2. After the primer has dried, be sure to walk on the ceiling with an abrasive mesh, removing small dried specks.
Thin wallpaper can show not only texture defects of the base, but also its uneven color. It is desirable that the ceiling under the wallpaper has a uniform light gray or white color – then the joints will be the least noticeable and under different lighting angles it is guaranteed that dark areas will not appear. Acrylic water-dispersion paint diluted with water to 1 / 3–1 / 4 of the initial concentration will help in this matter. Of course, such a ceiling no longer requires additional priming..
When gluing the ceiling, the convenience of work is at the forefront. The room needs to be freed from furniture as much as possible, the remaining one should be protected with a covering film and arranged in such a way that nothing interferes with free movement and there are no dead zones on the ceiling, which cannot be reached..
A platform and at least one stepladder are required, the height of which allows you to climb close to the ceiling. It is not recommended to glue the wallpaper alone if the length of the web is more than 3.5–4 meters, so provide a couple of free hands in the grip. The assistant does not have to work under the ceiling, his task is to hold the non-glued part of the canvas. You can use a mop wrapped in clean cotton rags..
The room in which the ceiling is being pasted must be carefully sealed: the windows are closed, a twisted rag is placed under the doors. It is optimal if, when the wallpaper dries, the humidity decreases as slowly as possible – then the paper will stretch evenly, bubbles will go away and squeezed base defects will disappear.
It is recommended to stock up on a large amount of drink, as well as keep a couple of buckets of clean water on hand to wash hands and the floor from glue residues. Have a few clean cotton rags ready to immediately remove any glue that is squeezed out around the edges of the canvas.
Working with different types of wallpaper
Before you start gluing the ceiling, make sure that you have a good understanding of the specifics of working with different types of wallpaper. First of all, this concerns the glue – it must exactly match the selected type.
The key difference in operation is the order in which the adhesive is applied. It is impossible to spread non-woven wallpaper with glue, they only cover the wall with it and wait for preliminary absorption into the surface until a dried, viscous crust forms. Vinyl and combined wallpapers, on the other hand, are covered with glue from the wrong side, folded and left to soak for 3 to 5 minutes.
Vinyl wallpaper is also more tolerant of glue on the face, while non-woven wallpaper is almost guaranteed to get wet and streaky. Also pay attention to the nature of the surface, the presence of embossing, pellets and powder. If the surface does not have a bonding glossy layer, it is absolutely not allowed to level such wallpaper with a rag. In the presence of powder, it would not be a good idea to use a silicone wing, it is better to give preference to rollers – polyurethane, but not foam.
First canvas sticker
The initial stage of work is the most important, because the edge of the first canvas sets a common line for aligning all subsequent ones. It is recommended to glue the wallpaper along the direction of natural light, that is, from the window. For non-woven wallpaper for painting, this requirement is not so strict, otherwise the joints between the canvases will be much more noticeable.
From the wall, parallel to which the first sheet is glued, you need to set aside a distance by two risks, 20-30 mm less than the width of the roll. Risks are placed in the corners, after which you need to pull a chopping line or a simple thread and put a few more marks with an interval of 50-70 cm. The wall may have irregularities, so check whether the canvas will lie down with a slight approach to the vertical plane.
Even when working with vinyl wallpaper, it is not recommended to keep the first canvas wet for a long time, so that the stiffness of the paper does not allow the edge to bend. It is necessary to apply the canvas not exactly according to the marks, but with a small indent from them, maintaining a parallel position.
The canvas should be well tensioned and pressed against the ceiling in the central part. If the wallpaper has gone to the side by more than 2–3 mm, tear it off completely and stick it again. The first strip should not be “carried” in the applied state, so as not to deform the edge. When the base edge is aligned – smooth the blade, squeeze out bubbles and roll the corners.
Sticking subsequent paintings
The second and the rest of the canvases are aligned with the edges of the previous ones. Apply the wallpaper sheet end-to-end, maintaining an indent of about 1 mm. When the canvas is pressed against the ceiling by a third of the width, press it firmly with your palms and move it to the previous one until the gap is eliminated. Having passed this way along the entire length and leveling the joint, roll the strip along the center with a roller and finish smoothing with a herringbone.
To prevent the wallpaper from falling off, you can temporarily press it against the damp ceiling, but then you definitely need to tear it off and roll it out as expected. You should always press the wallpaper from the junction with the previous canvas to the center, and then from the center to the free edge.
Please note that the best way to organize the work is to immediately cut each subsequent roll of wallpaper into a whole number of strips, according to the width of the room, with at least 50 mm overlap on the walls. Vinyl wallpaper can be immediately spread with glue and folded in 3-4 strips to get wet.
Completion, trimming and moldings
Craftsmen know how to cut off the surplus adhered to the walls immediately after pasting. To do this, you need to roll the wet wallpaper with an angled roller under the side of the ceiling molding, achieving a protruding edge at a right angle. After the corner is pressed with a spatula, along which the excess is cut with a new sectional blade.
If you are not sure about the firmness of your hands, it is better to wait until it dries. First, you need to make sure that the edge is very carefully glued, it is optimal if a small bead of glue is squeezed out under the molding, which is left until completely dry.
Cutting is carried out in exactly the same way the next day, but only in this case, the wet paper will not reach behind the blade. You do not need to cut to the full depth; just leave a thin cut. In vinyl wallpaper, the top layer will go off and a torn edge of the base will remain, which will then be masked when painting the moldings. Harder non-woven wallpaper along the notch will simply break off with the formation of the same “shaggy” edge.
It is also allowed to glue the moldings after the wallpaper, masking the adhesion of the wall decoration to the ceiling. True, in this case, the corner framing will fly off during the dismantling of the wallpaper, plus there may be difficulties in covering the resulting cracks with glue-sealant.