How to install an opening skylight

A finished attic window is the simplest way to ventilate and illuminate the space under the roof. It can also serve as an additional way out in extreme situations. Modern sets of loft windows, which can be rotated 180 degrees, are glazed with two or three layers of glass for easy cleaning and come with adapters adapted to different roof types.

So, kits for roofs with a slope of less than 20 degrees are equipped with wedge-shaped frames that increase the bevel of the window. Delivery of cords, rods and electric motors for opening windows arranged in hard-to-reach places is provided. It is more convenient to make an opening and install windows from the inside. To complete the finishing of the opening, you will have to put the under-beams from above and below, nail them to the side surfaces of the rafters and to the cut off intermediate rafters. If only one rafter beam is cut, then a beam of the same section can be used for the under-beam. If two or more beams are cut out, then the thickness of the timber must be increased by 25 mm. If the window frame is too narrow to cover the distance between the rafter beams, insert an additional beam. When the opening is ready, you can install and seal the window following the manufacturer’s instructions. When finished, you need to replace the tiles around the frame. The side and upper gaps are filled with tiles, the lower ones are covered with a waterproofing apron. Clay shingles are nicked and chipped, but you will have to use a cutter to cut the concrete shingles. To support a short row of shingles above a window, insert a lifting rim – a strip of soft metal that fits on top of the window. Usually such a strip is included in the window kit.

1. How to install the armrests. Cut a hole in the roof as described on the previous pages. Measure the width of the opening between the two side rafters at the top and bottom. Cut two bolsters from a beam of the same section as the rafter beams. If more than one joist is cut, the under-joists should be 25 mm thicker than the rafter joists. Secure the under-beam in position by nailing it to the remaining ends of each beam at the top of the opening. Knock off the ends of the bolster with the side rafters. The lower bed support is installed in the same way. For standard 100 x 50 mm beams, use 100 mm round nails.

2. How to insert an additional rafter beam. Measure the outer width of the window unit and, starting at the side railing, measure this distance on each under-beam. Cut off the extra beam so that it fits between the under-beams. Put it back in place and nail it to the under-supports through the ends. Nail the plank to the additional beam and trim it flush if necessary.

3. How to strengthen the window block. At the bottom of the opening, nail a wooden beam across the rafters to provide temporary support. The beam in width should be equal to the distance between the box and the roof. Place the window box on the frame of the window opening, resting on the bottom temporary support bar. The window frame is fixed diagonally in opposite corners with two screws. Make sure the frame is rectangular by measuring the inside diagonal dimensions of the frame – they should be equal. Then screw the window frame to the rafters on all four brackets and remove the temporary support.

4. Finishing window finishing. Finish surfaces according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then replace the shingles so that they overlap the exposed areas at the sides and top of the frame. Start at the bottom rows. From the bottom edge of the frame, place each shingle on a plank under the adjacent piece on top so that it fits snugly into place. The tiles can be cut to fit, using a cutter if necessary. As you go up, nail the shingles to the slats. Place a locking baguette at the top edge of the frame. Make sure that the short row of the top tiles rests flat against the baguette. Finally, insert the window into the frame following the instructions.