Column-shaped apple trees – varieties and description of a plant with a photo, cultivation, care and formation of a crown

The content of the article

• What are columnar apple trees
• Varieties
• Planting Colony Apple Trees
• Colon-shaped apple tree care
• Watering
• Top dressing
• Wintering
• Diseases and Pests
• How to form a columnar apple tree
• Spring pruning
• Propagation of Column-shaped Apple Trees

The most popular fruit crop in the garden is the apple tree. Nevertheless, it is inconvenient to grow it in small areas, since a tree of traditional varieties takes up a lot of space, not allowing you to plant something nearby. This is due to the popularity that colonized types of culture among summer residents get. A compact tree grows vertically upward, while giving abundant harvests of tasty, large fruits.

What are columnar apple trees

Representatives of the variety appeared in the 20th century in Canada through a natural mutation. The first vertically growing branch was found on the Macintosh apple tree, after which a new variety Vozhak was bred from it, which later became the ancestor of hybrids of a large number of fruit tree species in America, Britain, and Russia. In our country, a columnar apple tree appeared in 1972 thanks to Professor Kichin. In the future, the best varieties of this species were selected, and the study of the plant continued almost throughout the USSR.

The fruit crop mutation was caused by a lack of growth hormone that determined the appearance of the plant. This violation caused an increase in the laying of flower buds (the desire to leave offspring), and, as a result, an early yield of the crop (for 1-3 years). Biological features of the culture are:

• complete absence of lateral branches;
• fruit formation on a tree trunk;
• dwarfism, compactness;
• early maturity.

With compact size, the plant bears fruit constantly, giving abundant crops. However, the colon-shaped varieties also have weaknesses – the root system. The latter is poorly developed, is not able to reliably hold the aerial part of the tree and can break under gusts of wind. The surface root system does not have the ability to provide the plant with enough water and nutrients, so the colonized varieties need additional nutrition and additional watering (it is extremely important not to overfeed them and not fill them with liquid – this ruins the apple trees).

Since the central shoot is involved in fruiting, most of the fruit formations die off (the process starts from the bottom and moves up). Having reached the top of the stem branch, the fruiting freezes and the tree ceases to produce crops, although it continues its life activity up to the age of 40-50 years. All columnar varieties of apple trees are early-growing, some of them begin to bloom in the year of planting (Iksha, Barguzin, Malyukha, etc.), but it is not advisable to leave the first crop. If a tree gives all its strength for the formation of fruits in the first year, it may not bring a crop for the next season..

The period of active fruiting in colonized plants does not exceed 6-8 years, while most of them relate to medium-fruit crops, giving a plentiful harvest by 3-4 years after planting. Late-fruit trees bear fruit for 6 years of growth. When purchasing seedlings, you must ask the seller for an accompanying characteristic of the variety, where the main biological characteristics of the plant should be indicated, otherwise you can buy an unpredictable type of apple tree. The advantages of columnar types of fruit crops are:

• the ability to grow in a small area due to the small size of the root system and the aerial parts of the plant;
• easy care;
• high decorativeness;
• fast, intense fruiting;
• excellent taste of apples;
• convenient, simplified harvesting.

This fruit crop has many more advantages than disadvantages, but even these few disadvantages serve as a reason for someone to refuse to plant a columnar variety. The negative features of this type of culture are:

• short-lived (most varieties lose their yield within 15 years);
• the high cost of seedlings compared to the cost of sprawling congeners of columnar apple trees.

Varieties

Colon-shaped apple trees, depending on their height, are divided into semi-dwarf, dwarf and vigorous. For a long time, these types of fruit trees were grown exclusively in specialized gardens, but now more and more summer residents prefer them to traditional apple trees. Colon-shaped types of culture are divided into varieties, the latter are summer, winter, autumn. Let’s consider them in more detail:

1. Summer varieties. They bring the crop early (by mid-summer), fully ripening by the end of August. The most popular among them are Medoc, President, Dialogue, Ray.
2. Autumn views. Fruits throughout the fall. Their representatives are Gin, Vasyugan, Titania, Ostankino, Iksha, Chervonets.
3. Winter columnar varieties. The fruits ripen in late autumn and are perfectly stored during the winter. The most popular varieties among summer residents are Moscow necklace, Currency, Amber necklace, Arbat, Bolero, Malyuha, Legend.

Different varieties of columnar apple trees differ not only in fruiting time, but also in the appearance of the crown, leaves, height, etc. In addition, individual taste characteristics of apples are characteristic of each type. Description of the most popular columnar types:

1. Medoc. Apples of white-yellow color with a thick skin, ripen by the end of August. The average yield per tree is 5-8 kg. The fruits have a pronounced honey flavor. The plant perfectly withstands cold and severe frosts.
2. The president. A compact plant that is suitable for growing even in small gardens. The variety produces sweet, very juicy white-yellow fruits in late August – early September..
3. Vasyugan. Fruits in large, dense, sour-sweet apples of red-green striped colors. The variety perfectly withstands frosts and gives 6-7 kg of yield from each tree.
4. Gin. Small fruits of beautiful bright red color have a sweet and sour taste. Gin easily survives frosts, giving annually 5-7 kg of apples from each tree. Fruits can be stored from fall to January..
5. Arbat. It differs in small fruits with a pronounced sweet and sour taste. Arbat belongs to the high-yielding crops that tolerate cold. Despite the fact that the plant belongs to the winter species, it is better to eat apples fresh, because they are poorly stored.
6. Moscow necklace. Fruits in large, juicy, sweet apples. The weight of one fruit is about 250 grams.
7. Currency. It ripens late, gives apples with excellent palatability. At the same time, the fruits perfectly tolerate long storage or transportation. This variety is characterized by maximum rich yield..

Planting Colony Apple Trees

It is better to plant a plant in early spring, before buds open in the trees, but planting apple-shaped apple trees in autumn (late September or early October) is allowed. Seedlings are better to buy annuals, because they take root much easier than older ones, in addition, young trees begin to grow faster and produce crops. During the acquisition, make sure that the roots are not rotten or too dry. It is better to give preference to the material in the container – you can plant it in the soil even in summer.

The place for planting colon-like varieties is chosen open, with free access to heat and sunlight, while it should be protected from strong gusts of wind. The optimal soil for the tree is moisture-permeable, fertile, with a groundwater table of no more than 2 meters. When deciding to plant an apple orchard, seedlings should be placed at a distance of half a meter from each other, leaving a row spacing of 1 meter. Pits for seedlings should be at least 90x90x90 cm, it is better to prepare them a couple of weeks before planting, otherwise the root neck of the plant may be underground, and this is unacceptable.

Digging holes, discard fertile soil in one direction, and lower ground in the other, so that they do not mix. When planting a columnar apple tree in heavy soil, be sure to make a drainage layer of crushed stone and sand at the bottom of the recess. After that, 3-4 buckets of humus, litter or compost, 100 g of superphosphate and 50-100 g of potassium fertilizer should be added to the fertile soil. If the land on the plot is acidic, you need to add, in addition to the above, 100-200 g of dolomite flour and place the soil mixture in the pit, leaving it for 2 weeks, so that the soil is compacted and settled.

After half a month, you should pour the rest of the soil mixture into the pit with a slide, install a tree on it so that the root neck remains just above the surface of the site. Spread the roots of the plant, fill the hole with infertile soil from the bottom layer, take in the soil and form a round hole around the seedling with a roller at least 10 cm high at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Pour here 1-2 liters of water immediately after planting. When the liquid is absorbed, mulch the trunk circle with peat, mowed grass, sawdust.

To prevent a gust of wind from breaking the tree, tie it to a peg driven in nearby. If you plan to plant a column-shaped apple tree in spring, it is better to prepare a hole for it in the fall – during the winter the soil will settle in it and fertilizers will be evenly distributed, so that all root processes will be located in fertile nutrient soil and the tree will grow quickly. Otherwise, the spring planting procedure for this species of apple trees does not differ from the autumn.

Colon-shaped apple tree care

In the spring, before the formation of buds, pruning and prophylactic treatment of plants from diseases and pests is carried out. In addition, colony-shaped crops are fed with nitrogen fertilizers. During the formation of buds in newly planted trees, they are carefully removed, while 10 flowers can be left on plants of the second year of growth. On older trees, the load is increased gradually, leaving 2 more flowers twice each year than apples should ripen. On the fruit links, 2 inflorescences are left, delaying the repeated thinning for the summer period.

In addition to top dressing, pruning and thinning, colony-shaped apple trees need loosening of soil in the near-stem circle and watering. If you grow a crop on clonal stocks, then cultivating is prohibited, as there is a risk of damaging the roots. In this case, it is better to tin the near-stem circle (to plant siderata within a radius of 25 cm from the trunks and periodically mow them).

In the first half of June, complex fertilizing of columnar trees with mineral fertilizers is carried out. When the ovaries appear, re-thinning of the crop is carried out (only half of the ovaries are left on the branches). When the fruits reach the size of a cherry, only 2 ovaries are left in each inflorescence, and when the apples reach the size of a walnut, every second ovary is removed: so, 1 fruit remains on each fruiting link.

In summer, it is necessary to especially carefully care for the colonized plant, preventing the propagation of pests in the garden. It is important to track any changes in the appearance of apple trees in order to timely notice the onset of a disease. When diagnosing a problem, urgent measures must be taken, otherwise the crop will be in jeopardy. Colon-shaped trees should be treated for diseases and parasites no later than one month before harvesting..

They stop feeding nitrogen and organic fertilizers in August – at this stage, the trees need more potassium, which helps the young shoots to ripen faster. To prevent freezing of the tops of branches in winter, 4 top leaves are shortened on each shoot (2/3 are cut). After harvesting, in the fall, columnar-shaped apple trees are fed, trimmed branches are cut off, the crown and the soil around are treated against pests and fungi hidden in the winter.

Before the sap flow begins, in the early spring, and in the fall, after the leaf fall is over, preventive treatment of trees against diseases and parasites is carried out. For this, as a rule, a solution of Bordeaux liquid or Nitrafen is used. Some gardeners for spring spraying use a 7% urea solution, which serves not only as a fungicide and insecticide, but also as a timely nitrogen top dressing of colonized plants.

Watering

Due to the fact that the colony-shaped varieties are devoid of a core root that goes deep into the earth, and their roots are superficial, young plants will have to be watered in normal summer weather every 3 days. With increased aridity and heat, the soil will have to be moistened every second day or every day. Mature columnar apple trees can be watered a couple of times a week. Since mid-July, trees are watered less often, and in August, the introduction of water into the ground is stopped altogether so that the plant can form flower buds, complete growth and prepare for the winter period.

To preserve moisture in the soil and form a crust on its surface, the trunk circle is mulched with straw / grass or seeded with green manure. The best way to water colonized plants is to drip with a dosed flow of fluid to the roots, but once a month you need to carry out a plentiful application of water in the soil. Every 2 weeks after sunset you should generously water the crowns from the hose.

Top dressing

For abundant fruiting, columnar apple trees take all the useful substances from the soil, so they feed the culture throughout the entire growing season. In spring, organic fertilizers are introduced into the trunk circles – manure, chicken droppings diluted with water. Foliar nitrogen top dressing is a seven percent urea solution, which is used in early spring, before kidney swelling.

After this, by the middle of summer, it is recommended to carry out two more foliar fertilizers with urea (0.1% concentration is needed). At the peak of the growing season (early June), the culture needs complex mineral fertilizing. Since August, organic matter has been excluded from the composition of fertilizers, since colonized plants begin to need exclusively potassium, accelerating the maturation of the tops of tree shoots.

Wintering

After the onset of autumn, a stable shelter must be created for the boles of young colonized trees, for which wood shavings or spruce branches are used (the material should be dry and prickly to prevent attacks of rodents). Straw is not suitable for this, and if you mulched a trunk around it in spring and summer, a layer of dry grass should be removed in autumn, since it attracts rats and mice. After the snow falls, spud them with the base of the stem of the columnar apple tree..

Diseases and Pests

Some varieties of columnar apple trees are more; others are less susceptible to pest attacks. Nevertheless, experts advise that preventive measures be taken for all types of fruit trees. Among the common parasites that are dangerous for colonized plants, the following are distinguished:

• apple, green, bloody, red-gall, plantain aphid;
• glass;
• sawfly;
• a tinker;
• red tick;
• codling moth;
• leaflet;
• mole;
• currant, fruit, subcrustal leaflet;
• scale shield;
• scoop;
• fruit, mountain ash, fruit moth;
• goose weevil;
• unpaired, oak-leaved, ringed silkworm;
• bark beetle;
• sapwood;
• pipework;
• tinder fungus.

It is recommended to deal with parasites by means of hunting belts made of corrugated paper, which impede the lifting of insects along the trunk to the crown, as well as with the help of insecticides. Colon-type apple trees are subject to the same diseases as ordinary varieties of fruit trees. More often they get sick:

• ordinary, black cancer;
• proliferation (witch’s broom);
• scab;
• bitter fruit rot;
• subcutaneous viral spotting;
• rust;
• cytosporosis;
• flattened branches;
• glassy;
• powdery mildew;
• milky shine;
• fly fly neighbor;
• mosaic ring, mosaic.

How to form a columnar apple tree

Before the sap flow begins, a columnar apple tree is formed. For this purpose, cut some branches. From a biological point of view, this type of culture should not have a branch at all. Only lateral processes are pruned, the procedure is carried out in June or after leaf fall, during the preparation of the plant for wintering. The main principle for the formation of a columnar tree is that the more branches are cut, the more actively the shortened parts grow.

For example, a branch cut into 2/3 with 3-4 eyes will grow 3-4 strong shoots. When removing only 1/3 of the branch from the remaining buds, not very strong 7-8 branches will appear. If you correctly prune the colony tree, it will give 10-15 cm of growth and 2-3 lateral buds each year. During the formation of the culture, it is important in no case to cut off the central conductor, otherwise, when the growth point is cut off, the tree will begin to branch.

Spring pruning

The formation of a columnar tree occurs before the start of active sap flow in the spring. In the first year, you need to cut off all the side branches so that 2 buds remain on their remaining bases. At the same time, sanitary pruning is carried out, in which the culture is released from patients who cross and suffer from severe frost shoots. Colon-shaped trees of the second year of growth of 2 shoots grown on a cut last year’s branch are trimmed more vertical (only 2 buds are left on it).

A horizontally directed branch will begin to bear fruit already in the upcoming season, and 2 more powerful shoots will grow from the trimmed one. In the third year, the offspring branches are removed. With the rest you need to perform the same pruning procedure as in the second year. The fruit link can function no more than 3-4 years, after this time it is cut into a ring. When the apical growth point dies, the conductor is trimmed, leaving only 2 kidneys. When the side branches grow on them, one of them is left, located vertically – it will become a replacement for the conductor.

Propagation of Column-shaped Apple Trees

This type of fruit crops can be propagated by grafting a graft of cuttings on a suitable stock, but only an experienced gardener can cope with this task. The seed method of reproduction is laborious and long, in addition, the plant may lose some of the characteristics. It is better to choose the method of air layering. To do this, in the early spring, choose a thin branch and make on its base an annular incision of the cortex 0.5 cm wide, after which the place is wrapped with cotton soaked in heteroauxin.

After a day, the incision must be wrapped with wet peat and placed in a black plastic bag, ensuring air tightness. It is important to ensure that the peat does not dry. By autumn, roots will grow under the film and the shoot can be separated from the alignment to be planted separately. The probability of success is about 50%. Growing seedlings on their own is problematic and difficult, it is more reliable to purchase them in a specialized nursery.