Needles for sewing machines – classification and marking, how to choose for different types of fabrics and leather

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Among all the parts of the machine, sewing needles receive the greatest load. The tool should be durable, high-quality, properly selected for the type of fabric. It is easy for novice seamstress to get confused among the variety of details, since manufacturers produce a large number of copies with different characteristics. Knowing the labeling and purpose of the tool will help you choose the right product for a specific purpose..

Classification of sewing needles

The tool is divided into two large groups – overlock and for household sewing machines. The main difference between them is the size of the eyelet; in the overlock part it is larger. Other classification signs: sharpening, shape of the eye, diameter, parameters of the groove, the purpose for certain tissues. In order for the user to have a clear idea of ​​the characteristics of the product, the manufacturer has introduced digital and letter marking.

The meaning of the numbers in the marking

Numbers indicate needle parameters for sewing machines. Many copies have a digital mark 130/705. She says that the part can be used in a household sewing machine, it has a flat bulb. Another marking takes the following form: No. 80/12. The number in the first place is the diameter of the needle according to the European metric. The value is indicated in hundredths of a millimeter; in this example, the diameter is 0.8 mm. The lower the score, the finer the tool. The second number is the same value, only in fractions of an inch (American system).

From the table below, you will understand which numbers are suitable for different types of fabric:

Numbers, fractions of a millimeter



Highly elastic knitwear, lycra fabric, other elastic materials


Light fabrics for blouses, shirts


Coarse calico, staple fabrics, synthetic materials, costume fabric, thin fabric: chiffon, cambric, crepe de chine


Jeans, light wool, heavy synthetics


Heavy wool


Burlap, rough cloth, beaver


Leather, tarpaulin, heavy materials – the number is selected individually

Labeling value on packaging

The meaning of the letters

Letter marking indicates the shape, purpose and size of the tool. Manufacturers use the following notation:

Marking, name




H, universal


Slightly rounded

Suitable for almost all materials

H-M, microtex


Extra thin, well-sharpened tip

Silk, Taffeta, Microfiber Fabrics

H-S, stretch fabrics


Rounded tip

Knitwear, stretching synthetics

H-E, embroidery


Ball point, big eye

Embroidery on all materials with natural and synthetic threads

H-Q quilting


Thin point, special bevel

Quilting and stitching

H-j jeans


Very thin, well sharpened tip

Thick fabrics: jeans, canvas, twill, work clothes, canvas

H-O, xiphoid


Wide instrument with wings (blades)

Making stitches, openwork stitches


H-MET, embroidery or sewing with metallic threads


Large polished eye, groove to prevent thread segregation

Fabrics of different density

H-SUK Knitwear


Spherical tip

Thick knitwear, jersey, knitted materials


H-LL leather


45 ° bevel cutting edge

All kinds of natural and artificial leather, suede, film, oilcloth, plastic

H-ZWI, double rod


Two needles in one holder, the distance between the rods in mm: 1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 6.0; three types: H, J, E

Decorative finishes

H-DRI, three rod


Three needles in one holder, the distance between the rods in mm: 2.5, 3.0

Decorative stitches



A large eye and a groove for better patency of the decorative thread

Decorative stitches. Used to create seams with loose, disintegrating threads on light, medium and heavy fabrics..

The meaning of the letters by type of fabric

Types of needles for sewing machines

Residents of Moscow and St. Petersburg can easily select the right tool – the variety allows. If you live in a small village, online stores will be the salvation. In them you can order a part of all sizes and shapes for any sewing machine. You should not worry about mail delivery, because this is such a group of goods that is difficult to damage. The cost of quality products is affordable, and if you are seriously engaged in sewing, you should not save on the tool – a bad needle can severely damage the fabric. Which manufacturers have become favorites of professionals?

For knitwear

The tool should not cut the fabric, so it is advisable to choose samples with a round tip. The part does not pierce the threads, but passes between them. The best options for knitwear: H-S, H-SUK, H-SES. Popular Model:

  • Title: SCHMETZ Stretch 130/705 H-S.
  • Price: 125 rubles.
  • Characteristics: in a set of 5 copies – 2×65, 2×75, 1×90. The material of manufacture is nickel. Flask cut off, diameter 2.04 mm.
  • Pros: excellent product quality, suitable for highly elastic knitted materials, the size of the flask is standard for household sewing machines.
  • Cons: not found.


The German company Schmetz is a leader in the production of goods in this category. Sewing needles for machines from this manufacturer break extremely rarely. Ideal for knitwear:

  • Title: SCHMETZ Jersey 130/705 H-SUK Combi.
  • Price: 89 r.
  • Characteristics: in a set of 5 needles – 1×70, 2×80, 1×90, 1×100. Made of nickel, color steel. Flask cut off, diameter 2.04 mm.
  • Pros: the best choice for knitwear.
  • Cons: not found.

Needle Set Jersey 130/705 H-SUK Combi

For skin

Another titanium in the manufacture of needles for various purposes is the Japanese company ORGAN NEEDLE co. Ltd. Experienced seamstresses know that the Lady and Organ logo is a symbol of reliability. For dense materials, the craftswomen use the following model:

  • Name: Machine Needle Leather Organ Needles Leder Leather Cuir130 / 705 H-LL.
  • Price: 270 r.
  • Product specifications: in a set of 5 samples – 3×90, 2×100. Suitable for working with suede, pork, calf, goat skin.
  • Pluses: long service life, excellent quality of a line.
  • Cons: factory defects with defective ears are found, many fakes are on sale.

For skin

Another German company produces quality products. The Groz-Beckert brand (the name Grotz-Beckert is often found on the Internet) specializes in creating industrial needles. For skin, the company has this set:

  • Title: Groz-Beckert DBx1 LR.
  • Price: 190 r.
  • Characteristics: in a set of 10 copies No. 90/14. The length from the beginning of the eye of the needle to the base is 33.8 mm. The flask thickness is 1.62 mm. The product is intended for upright machines, creates a diagonal seam with a slope to the right.
  • Pros: low breakage, rupture of thread, skipping stitch, high quality cut, long service life.
  • Cons: not suitable for home sewing machines.

Needles Groz-Beckert DBx1 LR

For denim

The very sharp end of an H-J part neatly fits into a dense fabric without damaging the thread. The needlewomen liked this set of tools:

  • Title: Prym Nadeln Jeans 130/705.
  • Price: 271 r.
  • Product specifications: a set of 5 samples No. 90/14. Production material – steel, color – silver. The size of the smoothing corresponds to the size of the needle.
  • Pros: the eyelet is well polished, which prevents damage to the thread, the details of the part ensure perfect loop formation, error-free thread holding.
  • Cons: expensive.

For Prym Nadeln Jeans Denim

On sale there are needles from domestic manufacturers. They are cheap, so needlewomen, for whom sewing is a rare hobby, buy them. Budget proposal:

  • Name: Artie Jeans Needle.
  • Price: 42 r.
  • Characteristics: in a set of 5 samples No. 100. Production material – tool steel.
  • Pros: inexpensive, good at work.
  • Cons: often break, bend.

For jeans artie

For finishing stitching

With the help of a double or triple needle, you can make beautiful finishing seams. The H-ZWI, H-DRI tool is not suitable for all machines, but only for those with a zigzag line (Singer, Brother, Janome, Juki and others), while it works exclusively in direct line mode. The following model is popular:

  • Name: Hemline Double Needles.
  • Price: 189 r.
  • Product specifications: in the set, one instance No. 80, the distance between the rods – 4 mm. Production material – steel. Suitable for creating a decorative stitch on a knitted, elastic fabric with a thick pile. Rounded tip.
  • Pluses: strong, does not damage fibers, is suitable for all modern cars.
  • Cons: does not always make the perfect line, whimsical in work.

Double for knitwear

Particularly beautiful stitches are obtained using a triple needle. To make the decorative seam perfect, you need to choose a quality tool, for example:

  • Title: SCHMETZ Universal Triple Needle H-DRI.
  • Price: 169 r.
  • Product specifications: in the set one universal instance No. 80 with a distance between the rods of 2.5 mm. Production Material – Nickel.
  • Pros: convenient plastic case for storage and carrying, high durability of the product.
  • Cons: not found.

Double Universal Triple Needle H-DRI

Double needle

The tool with two rods is designed to make decorative seams that do not experience heavy load. If you need to simultaneously embroider parallel elements of the pattern, a double needle is indispensable. Popular tool:

  • Title: Hemline Klasse Double Embroidery.
  • Price: 151 r.
  • Product specifications: one copy No. 75 with a distance between the rods of 3 mm. Product length – 3.8 cm. Color: steel, red. Purpose: topstitching after embroidery with polyester threads or area on thin fabrics.
  • Pros: a large hole, into which the thread is easily threaded, it is convenient to store the product in a plastic case.
  • Cons: requires a reduced speed in operation.

Embroidery Hemline Klasse

Sales on this item are rare because its cost is affordable. The price category of the next manufacturer is higher than that of other well-known brands, but the quality corresponds to:

  • Title: Prym Double Needle 130/705.
  • Price: 271 r.
  • Product specifications: one copy No. 100, the width between the rods 6 mm. The tip is rounded, designed for knitwear.
  • Pros: durable, long lasting.
  • Cons: not found.

Prym Double Needle 130/705

With wings

With the help of the xiphoid needle, beautiful openwork stitches, hemstitch are obtained. Hot Sales in Category:

  • Title: SCHMETZ Hemstitch Needle 130/705 H WING.
  • Price: 180 r.
  • Product specifications: in the set one instance No. 100/16 with two longitudinal protrusions (wings) on the rod. Used on non-woven materials.
  • Pros: the needle for sewing machines is of impeccable quality.
  • Cons: not found.

Hemstitch Wings

The tool with wings creates an openwork pattern that looks especially impressive on fabrics with a loose weaving structure: batiste, linen, cotton. Featured Product:

  • Title: Hemline Klasse for Stitching.
  • Price: 215 r.
  • Product specifications: in the set one instance of No. 100/16. Product length – 3.9 cm.
  • Pluses: long serves, strong, does not bend.
  • Cons: expensive.

Hemline Klasse

Self refueling needle

The tool is convenient for those who find it difficult to thread the needle. At the same level as the eyelet is a slot through which the thread is passed, after which it gets into the eyelet itself. The model is optimal for working with medium-density fabrics. Self-refueling needles for sewing machines are extremely rare on sale; there are no such sets in the lines of well-known manufacturers. If a person has difficulties with threading, you can use the following tool:

  • Name: Hemline 136 Sewing Machine Threader.
  • Price: 218 r.
  • Characteristics: there are two tankers in the set – needle (extra long for overlocks and sewing machines), loopback (thin threading machine for overlocks).
  • Pros: facilitates insertion of the thread into the eye.
  • Cons: from the description from the manufacturer it is not clear how to use the device.


How to choose a needle

Discounts on this group of goods are extremely rare (if only there is damage to the packaging), so you should not expect a decrease in cost. Promotions hold online stores, they need to be closely monitored. If you are lucky, you can purchase several products for the price of one. When buying, you need to focus on the following criteria:

  • Type of sewing machine. Be sure to read the instructions for your device, it gives specific recommendations on the selection of needles: numbers, markings are indicated. This point is especially important when replacing the working tool in overlocks – they have differences in the flasks.
  • Characteristics of the fabric. When choosing a needle for sewing machines, refer to the table where the purpose of each working tool is indicated. Different groups of fabrics require a tool of a specific shape and thickness..
  • Manufacturer. The best brands are Schmetz, Organ, Groz-Beckert. Choosing products of well-known companies, you will not worry about their quality. Before starting work, you need to check the curvature of the tool, the absence of external defects (for example, loss of sharpening, incorrect position of the eyelet in relation to the groove, rust).

For household sewing machines

Needles for home appliances have a flat bulb – this facilitates the process of proper tool installation. Do not attempt to use an industrial needle in a household appliance. If you notice a warp in a part, do not try to align it. A high-quality product should not bend, with an intensive attempt to level it, steel or nickel breaks – this is an indicator of good quality.

For industrial sewing machines

A round bulb is the main difference from household models. There is still a difference in length and purpose. Industrial needles for a sewing machine are produced by such companies: Schmetz, Groz-Beckert, Organ. They offer working tools for overlocks, embroidery, upright, folding, buttons, rivets, sewing machines, devices for simulating hand stitches, for blind seams, etc. Each device uses its own marking, which must be paid attention to.

For industrial machines

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