The content of the article
- What is required for work
- How to use doublerin
- What foot is needed for hidden zippers?
- How to sew a hidden zipper in a skirt
- Features of knitwear
- How to sew a zipper in a skirt with a belt
Beginning needlewomen engaged in sewing, I am sure that it is problematic to sew a hidden fastener. In the finished product, it should not be visible, and this is important when a beautiful fabric and an original style are combined in things. Having looked at the accessory live, women are wondering how to sew the secret zipper as accurately as possible..
What is required for work
The secret fastener differs from the usual in its construction. On the front side in the finished product, only the slider is visible, and the cloves are on the wrong side. Everything looks beautiful and neat, because the edges of the material are tightly brought together. How to sew secret zippers and what is necessary for such work?
If this is your first time doing this, you will need attention and patience. After the first lesson, next time, you will do everything quickly. First you need to buy a castle of a suitable color. The required length is 20 centimeters. Please note – the teeth on the back side must be folded, forming a groove for grinding. For work you will need:
- threads in the color of the material;
- pins to pin the fastener before the basting;
- sewing machine;
- special foot;
- gasket for edge reinforcement – doublerin or non-woven.
How to use doublerin
Stores offer a huge selection of materials for sewing. There are heavy dense fabrics, there is a knitted fabric and weightless silk. Each type requires special techniques, its own approach to sewing. There will be no problems if you decide to embed a hidden lock in a piece of thick fabric. Another thing is stretching, loose materials. How to sew a hidden zipper in a skirt in this case? You will be helped by a special fabric – doublerin.
This is a strip of very thin lining material with a layer of glue applied on it, which looks like small grains on one side. Before sewing on the castle, along the line along which it will be attached, take a doubler. The lining is glued to the fabric and secured with a hot iron. Edges reinforced in this way will not stretch. If the fabric is glued well, everything will sew neatly.
What foot is needed for hidden zippers?
Worried how to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt? Just get a special foot. A set of modern machines includes a device that is suitable for ordinary locks, if you try, you can sew in and hidden. It is more convenient to do this with a special foot. It has a groove at the base, which includes cloves, opening a place for grinding. The needle sticks close to them – so that after sewing, the stitching is not visible. You can buy a metal or plastic foot, but the first will last longer.
How to sew a hidden zipper in a skirt
There are many ways to sew a hidden lock. Craftswomen with experience do this without sweeping, right away. Someone uses only chipping with pins, gradually removing them when stitching, so as not to break the needle of the sewing machine. For beginner needlewomen it is better to perform operations sequentially, chipping and sweeping the lock. Over time, you yourself will choose the right technology to sew in the hidden clasp, you will do it easily and simply.
Where the lock will be sewn in is up to you. It can be a side or middle seam at the back – it does not matter for the execution technique. How to sew a hidden zipper in a skirt? According to technology, it is better to do this:
- fold the fabric in half where the fastener is sewn;
- make an allowance of 1.5 cm from the edge and draw a seam line;
- sweep the product according to this markup;
- overcast each edge separately;
- iron the seam according to the estimate;
- straighten it and iron it;
- on the wrong side of the product, attach the lock with the teeth down so that they are aligned with the middle of the seam;
- the slider should align with the hemline of the upper cut of the skirt.
Stages of sewing on a hidden lock:
- stretch the slider to the front side;
- pin the lock with pins across, under the cloves;
- to bend to one layer of the hem, making a seam in the middle;
- remove the pins;
- fully open the clasp;
- to grind one side with the help of a special foot, which will bend the edge with teeth;
- repeat the operation on the other hand, if the fabric is sliding, – satin or silk – it is necessary to flash each time from above;
- make a seam from the wrong side about 1 cm below the lock;
- stitch the back seam to the end;
- trim the top of the skirt;
- make a hem and hem.
Features of knitwear
There are nuances of how to sew a hidden zipper into a knitted skirt quickly and without problems. The technology itself remains unchanged, but it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:
- buy a special needle for knitwear – it has a rounded end;
- select a step length on a separate piece of fabric;
- check the line;
- glue the place to grind the lock with a non-woven or dublin gasket;
- for proper pulling of fabric during sewing, place a strip of paper under it.
How to sew a zipper in a skirt with a belt
If you plan to sew a skirt with a belt, then to make it look neat, the hidden fastener should fasten to the very top. The following operations must be performed:
- the blank for the belt is folded in half along the length, and ironed;
- stitched with one side to the upper section of the product;
- a seam where the hidden fastener will be sewn until it is sewn;
- the upper edge is fixed at the fold of the belt with pins, sweep;
- sew in a fastener;
- stitch the seam in the back;
- the belt is bent over the ironed place and finally sewn;
- the side seam closing the fastener is sewn by hand.