Master class: cleaning a floor-standing gas boiler

Recommendation points

• Preparation for work
• Moving on to cleaning the column
• The result of the work done

Cleaning the gas boiler allows you to use it as efficiently as possible throughout its entire service life. The article describes step by step the cleaning process before the start of the heating season using the example of a floor chimney boiler “Zhitomir-3” with Eurosit-630 automation.

Cleaning the domestic gas boiler before the start of the heating season must be carried out without fail. For boilers operating all year round, this procedure is carried out at least once a year. Gas combustion in equipment with partially clogged flue gas ducts occurs in the wrong mode, which only aggravates the situation, further clogging the boiler with soot. The result is carbon monoxide poisoning of residents. By the way, draft automation is capable of working only if the chimney is clogged, but not in case of clogging of the boiler channels. Therefore, you should not rely solely on automation and neglect cleaning..

It is important to know that gas hazardous work should be performed exclusively by representatives of specialized organizations that have the appropriate permits. This work is provided for informational purposes only, however, it will allow the owner of the gas boiler to control the quality of the work performed by the gas service.

Preparation for work

To carry out work on cleaning the gas boiler, you will need the following set of tools:

• open-end wrenches No. 8, 9, 10, 13 and 17;
• flat head screwdriver;
• brush;
• metal brush;
• brush.

Moving on to cleaning the column

We turn off the gas supply valve to the boiler. Using the key No. 10, unscrew the fastening screw under the boiler door and remove the door.

Disconnect the wire connecting the piezoelectric element and the ignition electrode.

Unscrew the thermocouple clamp with the key # 10. Using the key number 9, unscrew the thermocouple from the valve.

Note:it is necessary to ensure that the thermocouple does not rotate during unscrewing.

We mark the depth of entry of the nozzle into the main burner so as not to disrupt the boiler setting.

Using a No. 17 wrench, unscrew the nut that secures the copper tube from the burner to the valve. Using the key # 10, unscrew the ignition electrode from the pilot burner and the copper tube from the pilot burner and valve. Using a flat-head screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the pilot burner.

The gasket installed under the pilot burner has deteriorated. It will need to be replaced.

Removing the nozzle from the pilot burner.

Tip: if the nozzle is stuck, you can lightly tap the burner with a wrench.

Unscrew the four screws securing the main burner to the boiler body and the screw that secures the body in order to be able to remove the main burner.

Lowering the main burner down, remove the copper tube from the valve.

Removing the main burner.

We take out the thermometer sleeve from the boiler body.

Using the key No. 10, unscrew the four screws securing the upper boiler cover and remove it and the insulation sheet under it.

Unscrew the two nuts securing the gas duct to the boiler body.

Removing the terminals from the draft sensor.

We remove the gas duct.

We remove the swirlers from the boiler heat exchanger. We clean them with a brush. If necessary, use a metal brush.

We clean the outer part of the heat exchanger with a metal brush. We clean the channels of the heat exchanger with a brush to the full depth. We clean the bottom of the heat exchanger with a brush. We also clean the gap between the boiler body and the floor. We clean the exfoliated debris with a vacuum cleaner.

Release the screw fixing the depth of entry of the nozzle into the main burner with a wrench No. 13 and remove it.

We clean the burner with a brush and a brush, clean its holes with a vacuum cleaner. We clean the flue from dust outside and inside.

We clean the outer surface of the nozzle with a brush, then clean the nozzle holes with a needle or wire.

Note: the needle must be of a smaller diameter than the diameter of the nozzle orifice. Even a slight increase in the diameter of the nozzle orifice can affect the combustion mode.

Installing the main burner in place.

We install a copper pipe with a nozzle and attach its nut to the gas valve.

Only after that we fix the nozzle on the burner at the mark with the key No. 13.

Note:this sequence is necessary in order not to strip the threads in the valve body.

Finally, we clamp the nut of the copper tube with a wrench No. 17.

Cleaning the pilot burner with a metal brush.

This is how the thermocouple should be installed in the pilot burner (tip of the thermocouple against the flame).

Installing the pilot burner on a new gasket.

Before installing the nozzle into the pilot burner, it should be rubbed a little against the tip of the copper tube for a better seal. The nozzle should also be cleaned or blown out.

Connect the copper tube to the pilot burner and to the valve with a wrench # 10.

The rest of the boiler parts are assembled in reverse order. When connecting, the ignition electrode should not be clamped with a key; it is enough to do it by hand, since it is made of ceramic and can easily crack.

We carry out control soaping of all compounds. It is possible to check the tightness of the connection of copper pipes to the main and pilot burners only when the boiler is turned on..

The result of the work done

This boiler is cleaned regularly every year before the heating season. No critical contamination was found during cleaning, but it can be seen that dirt accumulates throughout the year. The need for such a procedure is obvious. After cleaning, the boiler ignites easily, it picks up temperature well.

P.S. The photographs of the boiler show traces of burnt paint in the area of ​​the viewing window. This is a clear sign of insufficient draft or contamination of the boiler channels. In this case, the problem has long been eliminated, but traces, unfortunately, remain.