Do-it-yourself wood-burning stove

Recommendation points

• Basic recommendations for the construction of the foundation
• Consumption of materials and furnace appliances
• Features of masonry ovens
• Ordering
• Basic requirements of the pipe device
• Drying the oven

The stove has long been a symbol of the hearth, which gathers our loved ones around it. Make a wood-burning stove for your home with your own hands, which will have all the necessary qualities: good warmth, structural strength and ease of use.

Basic recommendations for the construction of the foundation

It is better to make your own foundation under the furnace, this is a rather massive structure and its operation takes place under special conditions. If the strength of the floor allows, then you can install it on it, but at the same time all additional loads are necessarily taken into account in the calculation of the floors.

The foundation for the oven can be:

• from monolithic concrete;
• reinforced concrete slab;
• from short concrete blocks;
• ordinary clay brick masonry;
• rubble concrete masonry.

It all depends on the availability of the material.

Important! Do not use sand-lime brick or foundation block. In a humid environment, this material loses its strength.

The depth of laying is taken from the conditions of the natural properties of the soil, its bearing capacity. If during the cold period of time the building has breaks in heating, then it is better to lay the foundation below the freezing depth of the soil. For example, for loams it is 1.6 m, for sands – 1.8 m for central Russia. In heated buildings, during the entire cold season, the depth of the basement base is taken to be at least 500 mm below the ground level at the outer wall of the house.

The foundation for the oven. 1. Ground. 2. Sand pillow. 3. Gravel preparation .4. The foundation of the house. 5. Furnace foundation. 6. Sand between foundations as a thermal decoupling. 7. Waterproofing. 8. Furnace base

If the stove is installed against a wall, then the stove foundation is erected at a distance of more than 5 cm from the wall foundation. The gap is filled with compacted sand. The dimensions of the foundation for the furnace are taken more than the dimensions of the furnace itself by 100 mm around the perimeter. A sand and gravel compacted cushion 15 cm is made under the base of the foundation.The thickness of the cushion is included in the depth of the foundation.

Important! When excavating the earth, do not dig in the soil at the base of the wall, which is located nearby. This can weaken its carrying capacity..

The laying of the kiln solid begins at a mark 15 cm below the clean floor.Before this, the foundation is covered with 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing material).

Consumption of materials and furnace appliances

To set up an oven array you will need:

1. Ordinary corpulent clay bricks GOST 390-96 – 300 pieces.
2. Medium fat clay (sand content 15%) – 5 buckets.
3. Cement М300-400 – 100 kg.
4. Mortar sand – 8 buckets.
5. Grate grate 180×250 mm – 1 piece.
6. Furnace door 205×205 mm – 1 piece.
7. Blowing door – 1 piece.
8. Cast iron two-burner stove – 1 piece.
9. Oven 240x300x350 mm – 1 piece.
10. Smoke damper 130×240 mm – 3 pieces.
11. Steel sheet 120x400x5 mm – 1 piece.
12. Steel sheet 150-300×2 mm – 1 piece.
13. Steel corner 50x50x5 mm – 3.5 m.
14. Steel tube O 30×3 mm – 0.5 m.
15. Dural corner 20x20x1 mm – 3.5 m.

Fireclay brick is a heat-resistant material specially designed for laying a furnace

1. Oven. 2. Blowing door. 3. Fireplace door. 4. Damper

Furnace tools

1. Hammer. 2. Furnace hammer. 3. Rubber hammer. 4. Chisel. 5. Pliers. 6. Trapezoidal trowel. 7. Trowel. 8. Building corner. 9. Bubble level. 10. Bucket for mortar. 11. Brush. 12. Roulette

Features of masonry ovens

It is important when bricklaying furnaces to observe the vertical and horizontal seams, channels and surfaces of the furnace. Obligatory banding of rows will ensure the joint operation of the entire furnace structure.

The width of horizontal joints should not exceed 5 mm, and vertical joints – 3 mm. It is very important to fill the joints completely with mortar. All internal surfaces of the oven are mopped with a wet cloth.

Each row of the furnace is selected according to the materials in advance without mortar. Fastening of oven appliances (frames, doors) is carried out using steel wire or steel strip legs.

All metal parts of the furnace, due to the different thermal conductivity with the brick, are laid with a gap, which is filled with an asbestos cord. For fire safety purposes, the grate is installed 7–14 cm below the furnace opening with a 5 mm gap filled with ash or sand. The area of ​​the grate openings should be larger? firebox area. All stove appliances are installed during the laying of the stove.

Furnace masonry work involves the use of clay-sand mortar, or mortar from a ready-made refractory mixture. The clay-sand mortar is prepared in advance, about a day in advance. The proportions of clay / sand are 1: 1.5. The sand is used fine, sifted through a sieve (mesh 1–1.5 mm). It should not contain foreign matter..

Clay is selected mainly red and also free of impurities. It is pre-soaked for 1-2 days. Kiln bricks must be well burnt and sound clear when tapped..

Important! Unburned, cracked, void or silicate bricks cannot be used.

The floor made of combustible materials in front of the firebox is protected by a pre-furnace steel sheet, which is laid on an asbestos-cement sheet and attached to the floor.

Such a furnace includes:

• single-burner stove;
• oven;
• hood.

1. Furnace foundation. 2. Waterproofing. 3. Steel sheet and asbestos gasket to protect the floor. 4. Blower door. 5. Fireplace door. 6. Damper. 7. The hob. 8. Chimney damper. 9. Oven. 10. Chimney. 11. Gender

Front and side view of the baby stove

It is distinguished by low consumption of firewood with high heat transfer (approximately 1700 kcal / hour), simplicity of design, two modes of use: for heating the room (winter) and for cooking (summer). The ignition stroke, which serves to melt the stove after a break in the furnace, can also be used in the summer when using a hob. In this case, the room is not heated, the heat goes directly into the pipe.

Furnace dimensions:

• width – 750 mm;
• depth – 630 mm;
• height – 1950 mm.

The overlap above the stove is made of a two-burner stove cut in half. The hole in the ceiling serves for an exhaust hood, which is closed by a valve.

Ordering

1st row. It is the basis for the oven. At this stage, you can make two rows. A blower door with a gap and an asbestos-cement cord is also installed here..

2-3 rows. The walls of the ash chamber and one cleaning are laid out, which is closed with half a brick dry.

4th row. Partially overlaps the ash chamber and begins to form smoke channels.

5th row. It involves the installation of a grate. The holes are located along the fuel chamber. The laying of the canal walls continues.

6-8 row. The furnace is formed. Here, at the same time, the firebox door is installed with a gap (3-5 mm), into which the asbestos cord is laid.

9 row. Forms the walls of the furnace and channels according to the orders.

10 row. Continues the construction of the walls of the furnace and channels in accordance with the orders.

11th row. A single-burner stove is installed, the niche frame is laid, and the laying of the furnace wall and channels continues.

12-18 row. The cooking niche and channels are laid out. On the thirteenth row, a latch for kindling is installed.

12th row

13th row

14-16th rows

17-18th row

19th row. The second half of the stove with a latch is installed on the metal frame of the cooking niche and on the bricks, and the nineteenth row is laid out.

20th row. It involves the installation of an oven and further laying of channels according to the orders.

21-22 row. Continue laying around the oven and channeling.

23rd row. Supports are installed to cover the oven chamber.

24-26 row. Canals are laid according to the orders.

27-28 row. The channels are overlapped, leaving one channel of the pipe 140×140 mm according to the orders.

Next, the pipe is laid. On the thirtieth row, the valve is laid.

Basic requirements of the pipe device

The pipe within the house is laid on clay-sand, outside the roof – on cement-sand mortar. Before reaching the ceiling, not reaching three rows, they begin to make fluff.

1. Chimney. 2. Fluff. 3. Ascent to the roof. 4. Otter. 5. Head

In places where structures of a coating made of combustible materials pass, the pipe wall thickness should be 380 mm for fire safety reasons. An otter is made over the roof surface to prevent moisture from entering under the roof. The pipe channel must be protected from above with a metal cap.

1. Laying of the main part of the chimney. 2. The order of the fluff. 3. Ordering the otter.

The height of the pipe above the roof to improve traction is taken in accordance with the distance to the ridge.

Drying the oven

Drying the oven is done carefully and slowly over three to eight days. This produces a daily firebox with a small amount of fuel. Throughout the entire drying of the furnace, the furnace door, blower door and valves must be open. When the wet stripes on the seams disappear from the surface of the stove and the stove turns light brown, you can stop the moderate heating. In this case, condensation should disappear on the valve..