House for a well with your own hands

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When the well is ready, care should be taken to exclude the possibility of dust, dirt, animals and other things getting into it that could spoil the water if it enters the well, making it unsuitable for drinking and cooking.

How to protect the well from foreign objects entering it? I solved this question as follows.

Since water intake from the well is carried out with the help of the CAB hydraulic station installed in the house, I decided to make a small house above the well with a door through which it would be possible to go inside this house for seasonal cleaning and disinfection of the well..

For the construction of such a house, it did not take a lot of building materials and time to build it..

What materials did I need to build a house above the well and their quantity:

– edged board 100×25 (25 and 40 mm thick)
– bar section 100×80
– roofing felt
– piano loop
– nails and screws
– slate (can be flat)

The tool that was required to set up the house:

– woodworking Machine
– electric jigsaw
– hacksaw for wood
– building level
– a hammer
– nail puller
– bayonet shovel
– Phillips screwdriver
– tape measure 3 m long, pencil

Note:if you do not have a woodworking machine, then you can replace it with the following tool – an electric plane, a hand-held circular saw.

Now let’s look at the process of building a house step by step.

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Step one. Preparation of building material

First of all, I prepared the material from which I made the house:
– he trimmed the boards on the machine, with which he later sheathed the pediment and from which he made the door to the entrance
– cut the necessary building material to the desired size
– leveled the surface of the earth around the upper ring of the well and poured a layer of crushed stone 50 mm thick, after which he carefully tamped the crushed stone.

Such a crushed stone platform is necessary to install the frame of the house on it.

Step two. Frame device

For the device of the frame of the house, I needed a beam with a section of 100×80 in length and an edged board with a thickness of 40 mm:
– racks 80 mm – 4 pcs..
– edged board for upper and lower strapping – 4 pcs. by 120mm

I made the frame strapping like this:
– put two frame racks on a flat surface, and nailed to them the boards of the upper and lower strapping, which were cut in advance to the desired length.

Note:I nailed boards to the racks with four nails in each rack (nails 100 mm long)
– also connected two other frame racks
– when the front and back walls were ready, put them near the ring and connected them together with boards of the upper and lower trim of the side walls

Step three. Roof device, frame cladding

For the construction of trusses, boards 30 mm thick and 180 cm long were required, as well as a 25 mm thick board for installing jibs and crossbars:
– rafter legs – 6 pcs. 180 cm
– jibs – 8 pcs. by 40 cm
– overlay (crossbar) – 3 pcs. by 30 cm

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I connected the rafters in the upper part into a joint, having previously cut them into a bevel, then put the rafters on the ground, connected their upper part and fastened them with self-tapping screws, and in order to prevent the rafters from diverging, fastened them together with a board (crossbar – Fig. 3), departing from the top point 30 cm.

To connect the rafter trusses with the upper trim of the frame, in the places where the rafters fit to the board of the upper trim, I made a cutout (as shown in Fig. 3) and attached the rafter trusses to the trim with 120 mm nails.

After installing the rafter trusses, I reinforced them with jibs, as shown in Figure 2.

From above, I connected the trusses with the help of boards, which act as a ridge of the roof and, moving from them, made a crate with a step of 12-150 cm between the boards (Fig. 3a) and a ledge from the front and rear walls of the house by 10 cm. Top covered the roof with roofing material.

The frame was sheathed with slate sheets. Since the height of the frame is 50 cm, the slate sheets are split into two parts and attached to the frame with slate nails. I closed the corner joints of the cladding by stuffing wind boards on them.

Step four. Door installation and wall cladding

In order to make the door to the house 85×55 cm (Fig. 4), edged boards and three bars of 25×30 mm were required.
– cut the boards to the desired size in height – 85 cm
– I laid the boards in the form of a shield on a flat surface, on top of the bottom and on the top I put the bars with which I connected the boards to each other. I used self-tapping screws as a fastening material – four self-tapping screws on one board above and below the door shield.
– between the connecting bars of the door diagonally attached a bar of stiffness so that when opening and closing the doors there is no distortion.

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Note: at the beginning, you need to attach the bars to the boards, which are located on the sides, so that the boards between them have a tight end connection.

The front and back walls of the house (pediment) were sheathed with edged boards, as can be seen in Figure 4.

I used piano hinges as awnings for the doors, with their help I hung the door. I attached the hinges on one side to the door, and on the other to the gable trim.

Boards can be painted or Pinotex coated.

It turned out to be quite a nice and durable house – reliable protection of the well shaft from pollution. And most importantly, practically without any cash investments – the leftovers of building materials were used, which are practically in every house from thrifty owners.

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