Diy circular saw table

Recommendation points

• Table materials and bases
• Attaching the hand saw
• Start button and electrician
• Cross cut guide
• Adjustable rip fence

Many home craftsmen dream of self-cutting sawn timber. This is a simple matter, but without suitable equipment it is practically impossible. So why not adapt a hand-held circular saw for this and assemble a table with your own hands with the possibility of longitudinal and transverse cutting?

A hand-held circular saw can be used for this quite ordinary. The power and diameter of the disc directly depends on what and in what volume you are going to process. Remember also that the table attachment steals up to 20 mm from the maximum cutting depth, so single-handed saws with a 120 mm blade are of little use for such purposes. The presence of the circular functions for adjusting the depth and angle of the cut will give you more options for fine processing of parts and cutting box grooves.

Table materials and bases

It is recommended to use 9 or 11 mm laminated plywood for the countertop. The material really deserves to go looking for it: durable, does not bend, the surface is smooth and slippery. It is ideal if at the point of purchase you order a cut according to the desired table dimensions, so that the edges and cuts are strictly rectangular. In our case, the dimensions of the table top will be 800×800 mm.

Almost any sheet material is suitable for the table body, for example, laminated chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm. You will need four strips without pasting the ends with dimensions of 400×784 mm. From them you need to assemble the walls of a rectangular box, fastening the strips with black self-tapping screws with preliminary reaming of the outer part by 5 mm. For strength and stability, bars of 40×40 mm are installed in the inner corners of the assembled box, it is better to fasten to them in the same way. The ends of the bars will be used to secure the table surface.

Such a fixture for permanent installation of the saw can be placed on top of any workbench of sufficient size. If you are planning a stand-alone installation, attach long pieces of wood in the corners of the box to act as legs. Do not forget that at the bottom they need to be fastened with crossbars and provide for the installation of additional oppression for greater stability..

Attaching the hand saw

Mark the longitudinal and transverse center axis on the wrong side of the plywood. Measure the width and length of your saw foot and transfer them to the table top markings. Determine the diameter and thickness of the lower guard and the distance it is from the edges of the support shoe. Mark a rectangle according to the obtained dimensions on plywood and cut a hole with an electric jigsaw.

Make one 10 mm hole in the four corners of the shoe. Drilling locations are arbitrary. Place the saw blade into the groove on the table top and align the shoe with the markings. Mark the centers of the holes made on the plywood and transfer them to the back side with a thin drill.

If there is not enough room in the support shoe to drill such large holes, use two steel plates with 6mm studs welded on, attached to the base of the saw with wing nuts lined with star washers. In this case, it will be a matter of five minutes to remove the saw for manual work and return it to its place without additional adjustment. The plates, in turn, have one large hole each, for secure mounting and initial adjustment of the saw position.

To attach the saw to the tabletop, use M8 countersunk taper head plowshares. A hole of 8 mm is drilled under them from the front side and a countersink is made under the head, which, when not tightened, should protrude no more than 1 mm above the surface. On the reverse side, the bolts pass into the holes of the support shoe (or steel plates) and are tightened under a wide and spring washer, or with a nut with a plastic spring.

If the fitting was successful, the tabletop must be fixed to the box. In the four corners of the plywood board, you need to drill one of the same holes as for fixing the saw. The distance from the edges is half the side of the used bar plus the wall thickness of the box, in our case it is 30 mm. A 10 mm hole is drilled in the center of each bar, a steel case M8x18 mm is screwed inside.

With the table top secured, turn the table on its side so you have access to the blade and saw attachments at the same time. After removing the protective cover for a while, align the saw blade along the longitudinal axis of the table using a rail and a square. After adjusting the disc, tighten the retaining nuts well. Using a ruler or level attached to the disc, mark the edges of the table and draw a line of the cutting plane along them. Draw along the line several times with an awl, leaving a shallow furrow, such markings will definitely not be erased after long use.

Start button and electrician

The standard power button must be shunted, and if this is not possible, clamp it with a clothespin or a tourniquet. Instead of a button on the handle, a small power grid will be used, laid inside the box.

On the outer front side of the box, install a double “Start / Stop” button with latching. Its normally open contact is connected to the break in the power cable. The ends of the wire are connected to a socket outlet screwed from the inside.

After the saw is connected and checked in operation, it is necessary to pull the nylon stocking folded three times over the air intake grill.

Cross cut guide

It is convenient to trim parts if there is a thrust beam that moves along the guides along the cut line. This can be made from ordinary 9 mm plywood..

You only need a few tablets:

• 150×250 mm 2 pieces.
• 100×820 mm 2 pieces.
• 150×820 mm 1 piece.
• 142х300 mm 1 piece.

As before, it is preferable to cut plywood with precision equipment. Three long boards must be assembled in the form of a channel 150 mm wide and shelves 100 mm. Since the caps of the self-tapping screws will be facing the tabletop, under them you must first drill out the plywood and sink the fasteners, and then process the traces with emery cloth. It is safer to use confirmations instead of self-tapping screws.

Boards 150×250 mm are screwed on like channel bar plugs, the free ends are directed downward. The remaining bar is screwed between the shelves exactly in the center. If this beam is placed on a table, the side boards will lower on the sides of the box with a gap of about 10 mm on each side..

Use ball bearing full extension furniture rails. First, attach them to the beam, and then try on and screw to the body. The holes for the fasteners are oblong, use them to adjust the beam: it should slide over the table top with very little clearance and at right angles to the cutting plane. Slide the beam once with the saw on to make a cut at the bottom. For quick removal and installation of the beam, it is recommended to snap off the plastic clips on the rails in advance.

Adjustable rip fence

It is much easier to dissolve the wood with a longitudinal stop. It can be made from a conventional aluminum curtain rod or other light profile with a perfectly flat edge and stiffening ribs. You will need a section along the length of the table, that is, 800 mm.

At 150 cm from the edges, make two holes of 8 mm and insert them along the M8 bolt, orienting the thread down. Screw on the nut without washer and tighten firmly. Draw two lines at the same distance from the edges of the table. At the intersection with the centerline of the tabletop, drill 12 mm holes. Another hole is drilled on the same lines with an indent of 30 cm.Using a router or jigsaw, make two thin slots, it is advisable to make an undercut as evenly as possible.

The stop profile is bolted into these slots; after adjustment, it can be tightened with thumbs with a wide washer on the inside. If the cutting width needs to be changed frequently, fit the table body with door hinges for easy opening. To quickly adjust the stop, attach tape from a tape measure to the ends of the trimming table.