Recommendation points
In this article, we will continue our master class on self-production of solid wood kitchen furniture with detailed photos. You will be able to make cabinet doors and finish the assembly.
In the previous article, we made a furniture board and assembled a cabinet frame from it. Now we will make paneled doors from solid wood and finally assemble the cabinet for finishing painting.
Manufacturing of paneled facades
We begin to carry out the facades with the vertical strapping elements. We cut them to size according to the drawing.
For the panel, we glue the shield from a piece of board without knots. In our case, we used a piece of well-dried board 50 mm thick. We run through a thickness gauge.
On the jointer, one longitudinal edge is made perpendicular.
We cut slats (plots) for gluing the shield. Cutting width 20 mm.
The pencil mark helps in the future to orient the plots in pairs so that the fibers on the cross section go in opposite directions – such a shield will be more stable with changes in humidity.
Before gluing the lamellas, fit tightly to each other with a planing thickness of no more than 0.1-0.2 mm.
Remove excess glue with a damp cloth, align the shield on both sides with a thickness gauge. We bring the final thickness to 15-16 mm.
To assemble the facade, we use cutters “frame strapping” and “figural” (paneled).
We set the emphasis on the bearing.
We mill the inner longitudinal edges of future doors.
We put them on the cabinet, providing a future gap between the doors of 3-4 mm. We measure the length of the strapping crossbars along the inner edges of the grooves.
Cut the crossbars to size.
Without changing the position of the cutter and the ruler, we mill.
We disassemble the cutter.
We assemble in the order of the counter-profile – the flat part of the cutter, the bearing, the spacer washer, the figured part, the nut.
Again we set the emphasis on the bearing.
We mill the ends of the strapping crossbars. We serve by cutting wood.
We clean the blanks with a sharp knife.
We assemble facades without glue for fitting.
The presence of leaks in the joints indicates insufficient fine tuning of the cutter. To avoid this, it is necessary to more accurately select the thickness of the distance washer individually for each copy of the cutter.
We measure the size of the future panel along the inner edges of the trim grooves.
Subtract 2 mm from each side. We cut the panels of the panels to the resulting size.
Installing the figurine cutter.
We remove material in stages, in 6-8 passes.
Curved areas are easier to sand before assembly.
A gap of 2 mm around the perimeter of the panel is needed to compensate for changes in its dimensions with changes in humidity. To prevent the panel from dangling, we put pieces of foamed polyethylene into the grooves.
We carry out the assembly of the facades with glue, coating both the spike and the groove.
We do not apply glue to the panel.
We tighten the facade with clamps, controlling the corners with a square.
After the glue dries, we grind the ends.
With a medium-sized milling cutter, we chamfer from the front of the facade. To avoid burn marks, reduce the speed of the router.
Making pens
We draw a pen in an arbitrary way on thick paper. Cut out the template, apply it to the hardwood board trim. Outline with a pencil.
Use a jigsaw or a band saw to cut out the handle. We mark the center on one side of each handle and drill a hole with a 3 mm drill. We clean with P80 sandpaper.
We mill around the perimeter (excluding the support heels) with a small milling cutter.
Sand with P120 sandpaper, then P180.
Installation of facades and handles
We apply the facades one by one to the body. We mark the axes of the loops.
We mark on the facades the centers of the hinges at a distance of 22 mm from the edge.
On the body – 37 mm.
Using a Forstner drill, select the recess for the loop.
We mark with an awl the centers of the holes in the hinges.
We carry out finishing sanding with P180 grit sandpaper.
At the same height in the center of the verticals of the facades, we drill holes with a 3 mm drill.
We fasten the handles in the area of their upper support heels with self-tapping screws with a 4.2×50 mm press washer. Rotating the handles, we set them parallel to each other. We make a pre-drill in the area of the lower heels and tighten the second pair of self-tapping screws.
Finishing
We remove the facade from the hinges. Removing the hinges from the case.
The most simple and affordable finishing option is impregnation with natural linseed oil. We apply it with a brush. After 15–20 minutes, wipe off the excess with a cloth. After a day, apply the next layer. All you need is 3-4 layers.
After complete drying, we carry out the final assembly.
I’m really interested in making my own kitchen cabinet, but I need more guidance. Could you provide me with detailed instructions or tips on how to proceed with Part 2 of the DIY furniture project?
To proceed with Part 2 of your DIY kitchen cabinet project, here are some detailed tips and instructions. Firstly, ensure you have all the necessary tools and materials, including plywood, screws, hinges, and handles. Begin by measuring and cutting the plywood according to your desired cabinet dimensions. Next, assemble the cabinet frame using screws, ensuring it is square and level. Attach the back panel securely. For the cabinet doors, cut plywood pieces to size and attach hinges as needed. Install the doors, ensuring they open and close smoothly. Add shelves and dividers inside the cabinet as per your requirements. Finish the cabinet with sanding and painting or staining as desired. Finally, mount the cabinet securely to the wall and install handles. Remember to take proper safety precautions and consult detailed resources for specific techniques or design variations.
Great tutorial on building a kitchen cabinet! However, I’m curious about the level of expertise required for this project. Are there any specific tools or skills needed that beginners might struggle with? I’m excited to give it a try, but want to make sure I’m not in over my head. Thanks!