How to work with clapboard

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Facing with wooden clapboard refers to those construction operations that can be performed by a master of almost any level. You do not need to have a complex tool and special skills to do this. Meanwhile, in this case, there are several nuances that are best known when starting work..

How to work with clapboard

Finishing is always less time-consuming than preparation, and also psychologically much more pleasant than rough work, because the efforts made are finally visible. Even hiring people for repairs, I want to do something with my own hands. Facing surfaces with wooden clapboard refers to those construction operations that can be performed by a master with almost any level of professionalism. To do this, you do not need to have a complex electric tool and have special skills, as, for example, the work of a putty putter requires. Meanwhile, in this case, there are several nuances that are best known when starting work..

Some general questions

Wooden lining is used without problems for cladding any building structures, but most often these are walls, ceiling, slopes, including in wet rooms. In most cases, the installation of the lining is carried out along the frames, but theoretically it can be attached to solid, well-aligned planes. For example, on a plastered wall, combined installation is allowed: glue (like “liquid nails”) and mechanical open fixation using dowels (the cork should not be “fungus”, but with “sweat” – then closed with a wooden dowel). Also, clapboard can sheath frame enclosing structures, for example, partitions, outer walls of Canadian houses, wooden floors, staircases, roof rafters.

How to work with clapboard

It is best to clad relatively large planes with a link of three people: one cuts to size and feeds the lamellas, and two are engaged in their installation – setting and fixing each element. An experienced finisher can cope independently, even on the ceiling, but this is not entirely convenient.

It is logical to start the cladding of the room from the ceiling, in order to then close the places where the lining adjoins the enclosing structures with wall cladding. Otherwise, you will have to carry out complex measurements and adjustments at the top, only complicate an already difficult task for yourself. It is better to sheathe the walls separately, one after the other, so that at the end you get only one “trim” corner. As for the frames of these walls, it is better to assemble them for the whole room at once (only the corners will then have to be organized), so that material emissions during drilling work do not dust and stain the wood.

How to work with clapboard

You can choose any direction for the lining, which is used indoors, including diagonal or “herringbone”. But, it is believed that in rooms with a changeable humidity regime, the vertical option will be more preferable, so that possible condensation can flow down the furrows on the back of the lining without accumulating. When facing structures on the street, use only a horizontal arrangement, “groove down”, first of all, so that the moisture of precipitation under the influence of gravity does not get into the seams.

Features of creating a subsystem

It is customary to use lumber as load-bearing elements of the frame. As a rule, this is a pine bar with cross-sectional sides from 30 to 50 mm. The bearing elements must be dry, even, free of knots and biological damage. Note that a metal subsystem, which is used in plasterboard works (UD, CD), can also act as a frame for mounting the lining. Galvanized profiles, in comparison with a wooden lath, have a more precise geometry, stability against moisture changes, they are more durable, and are not affected by pests. Therefore, metal will be an ideal solution for the street and some “wet” premises.

How to work with clapboard

In any case, it is better to attach both a wooden and a metal frame to the base using straight hangers (U-shaped perforated brackets). “Pawn” allows you to fix to the surface of any material. On a direct suspension, you can ideally set the plane, including at a considerable distance from the supporting structures, for example, if you need to insulate the walls or level them. This method of fixing and aligning is faster, more accurate and more reliable than fastening the slats through the body using spacers..

How to work with clapboard

The optimum distance between the brackets is between 600–1000 mm, depending on the section of the guide rails. The distance between the supporting elements of the frame (beams or profiles) depends on the thickness of the lining. For thick lamellas, even a distance of about 800 mm may be suitable, and for “standard” facings, a little more than a centimeter thick, it is better to limit yourself to 500-600 millimeters along the axes.

It is necessary to set the planes for mounting the lining very carefully. The fact is that the lining is a piece and suture material, therefore, with differences in the horizontal level or verticality of the subsystems in the corners, ugly wedges can be seen. Any plane must be assembled, starting from the extreme guides, and then, using beacon threads, set intermediate bars / profiles. The build quality of finished frames must be checked in all directions using a long rule (2-2.5 meters).

It is recommended to treat wooden elements of frames with waterproofing compounds (exterior) and biological protection agents before cladding.

If the cavities of the frames contain insulation / sound insulators, then the corresponding materials must be securely attached to the base, and a gap of at least 10 mm must remain between the back of the lining and the filler, which ensures ventilation of the structure. If the lining is used as a cladding in the ventilation facade system, then this gap is an order of magnitude larger, and for its organization, a counter lattice with a thickness of 30-40 mm is used.

Preparing the lining for cladding

A few days before the start of the facing work, the lining must be delivered to the object in order for the wood to adapt to the temperature and humidity conditions. All packages should be opened.

How to work with clapboard

It is imperative to sort out the lining in order to postpone lamellas with critical defects. So you will protect yourself from the fact that ugly or defective boards, unexpectedly revealed in the last packs, will fall into prominent places. Lining with problematic geometry (for example, in the form of an arc) can be cut and run over doorways, under a window, on slopes. We do the same with lamellas that have local flaws, or sew them in inconspicuous or specific places. And yet, if there is a board with a damaged spike, you can start trimming the plane from it, if the groove is broken, we finish the plane with this lamella.

It is better to cross-cut the lining with an electric miter saw, but, if necessary, hand saws with a fine tooth will do. The jigsaw will handle trimming, but it is especially good if you need to rip a lamella, for example, to assemble a corner. Note that you should use blades for a “clean cut” (the teeth are small, slightly set, directed downward), it is better if the sole of the jigsaw has a polymer lining, since the metal can leave black marks on light soft wood.

How to work with clapboard

The length of each lamella can be adjusted almost completely (with gaps of a couple of millimeters), since even in the heat of the sauna, the linear thermal expansion of the wood is very insignificant and will not have a negative effect.

For each individual plane, the first installed lining board (especially with a pronounced seam – euro, soft-line profiles) is prepared in a special way. To prevent the formation of a depression in the corner, which further interferes with the design of the joint, a groove is cut from the lamella, often right before the beginning of the main plane of the lamella.

Sheathing of frames

The vertical cladding starts at the corner of the already cladded plane. The horizontal cladding should start from the ceiling and move to the floor, while the lining should be placed with the groove down. So in the most visible place (wall / ceiling interface), everything will definitely be beautiful, and any problems below can be closed with a plinth.

The modern euro lining has a rather deep engagement of the groove with a spike, so it is not necessary to push the lamellas into each other all the way, all the more to finish them off through the extension. Such a course allows you to maintain the level of each cladding element and compensate for minor irregularities of individual lamellas, gradually “eat” the differences in the horizon or verticality. With horizontal sheathing, it will be easy to align the seams of adjacent planes. On the other hand, there is a danger of “filling up” seams or creating a repetitive arc. Therefore, every 2-3 planks, you need to apply a long level to the ends of the facing, check the evenness of the seam line, as well as its horizontal or vertical.

How to work with clapboard

Fastening the lining to the frame in most cases is carried out using metal clamps. Their standard size is chosen depending on the thickness of the groove flange. Our site recommends, just in case, to have on hand one size larger than necessary, since sometimes there are random thickenings on the grooves (due to imperfect milling), on which ordinary fasteners simply cannot be put on. The kleimer is hooked into the groove of the lamella with a staple and is nailed to the lathing with the help of small nails (15–20 mm). In saunas and outdoors, it is better to use copper or anodized nails that do not rust. Many craftsmen prefer to use self-tapping screws for fastening cleats (even for wooden subsystems). Screws with a small head under the countersunk are suitable (the heads are pressed into the bar through the thin metal of the cleaimer, they cannot be combined with rigid cleamers). 11-millimeter analogs of the famous “flea beetles” work normally here, only for wood and without a drill at the end. If a metal subsystem is used, then there are no alternatives to self-tapping screws LN 9 mm long.

How to work with clapboard

In the old fashioned way, in a hidden way, the lining can be fastened with nails, they are driven in at an angle, right through the eyelet of the groove. In this case, a doboynik is made from a thick ninety-hundredth nail or from a broken off 6-mm perforating drill. With a certain skill, this mounting option is quite practical and, perhaps, even faster than the “kleimerny” one, but the resulting facing will then be impossible to disassemble without destroying the grooves.

How to work with clapboard

Fixing the lining through the body is practically not used, since pins and nails with bitten off caps significantly worsen the appearance and consumer properties of the cladding, and after all, hidden installation is an important “feature” of the lining as a material. Meanwhile, such specialized lining options as “blockhouse” or “American” are often fastened just through the body, only screws / nails are not hidden by a dowel, but are covered with a groove of each next lamella. Also, the first and last lining of a single plane is fixed through the body, the corresponding fasteners are then closed with all kinds of extras.

To make the inner corner more rigid (especially with an increased distance between the supporting beams / profiles), segments from the guide beams are screwed onto the already sheathed plane, which complement the frame perimeter. Outside corners, niches and slopes are assembled according to the type of plasterboard systems – a timber or galvanized profile, which is not fixed to the base, “connecting” two planes, is installed under the cladding. By the way, as for the slopes and all kinds of niches, it is advisable to make them short, perpendicular to the main plane. Sheathe them at the end, when pieces of lining that are already non-business for other sections may remain.

Finishing gaps and abutments

As we have already noted, wood has a very low coefficient of thermal expansion, in addition, it is a malleable, easily processed material. Therefore, if desired, the lamellas in the places of mutual abutment or docking with other structures can be fitted closely. Not everyone is ready for such a responsible and painstaking work, therefore, often to overlap joints and gaps, all kinds of wood additions are used: outer corners, inner corners, flat onlays-connectors, decorative braids, etc. All of them are attached directly to the lining, as a rule , carnations with a flattened or removed cap.

How to work with clapboard

Also, all the inner corners of a room lined with wooden clapboard can be trimmed with a jute rope, which is also fixed with studs. This option is simply irreplaceable if the inner corners do not have a straight line, for example, if the lining has a relief front surface, and also if flat lamellas are joined with a log house, or, say, a wild stone.

How to work with clapboard

Modern lining of medium and high grades has well-finished surfaces and does not need additional sanding or puttying. The lining of low grades according to GOST may contain areas that have been putty by the manufacturer; you can also, by choosing the color of the putty, repair short cracks, shells, zones of moving knots in places yourself. It is up to you to cover or not cover the lining with paints and varnishes and which ones to use, but for very hot rooms (bath, sauna) it is better to use specialized protective oils.

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