Suspended toilet with installation: selection and installation

Recommendation points

• Why a wall-hung toilet is preferable
• What to consider when buying a toilet
• Site preparation, sewerage and water supply
• Fastening the installation to different types of walls

Installation of wall-hung toilet bowls is considered good practice in modern bathroom design. They are very easy to install and will easily fit into even the most sophisticated interior. This article will help you easily cope with the selection and installation of a wall-hung toilet.

Why a wall-hung toilet is preferable

The method of fixing the toilet to the wall is simple and effective. This saves quite a lot of space previously occupied by the cistern. The floor under the toilet is free, it is much easier to clean it. In terms of reliability, suspended plumbing does not differ much from floor equipment: most models are designed for weight up to 300 kg.

Hanging toilets are characterized by high user comfort. First, because of the possibility of their height adjustment. Floor plumbing has a height of up to 40 cm, which is not very convenient for tall people. Secondly, hanging toilets are a relatively new trend in the plumbing market. In view of this, manufacturers take into account many shortcomings that affect the ease of use, but, in their opinion, are too insignificant to recycle old floor-type samples. For the same reasons, all kinds of technical innovations and original design solutions are the first to be applied in wall-hung toilet bowls..

Of the shortcomings, it can be noted that the cost is higher than that of the floor ones. And also the inability to install the toilet to the wall at an angle other than straight, for example, in the corner of a room.

What to consider when buying a toilet

Suspended toilets are primarily concerned with the same qualities as floor-standing ones: the location of the drain hole, the flushing efficiency, the height of the siphon bend, the quality of the ceramics. With regard to flushing, it is recommended to give preference to the “whirlpool” type, the presence of holes in the front of the rim is very desirable.

Next, let’s talk about innovations that greatly facilitate the comfort of use. Optionally, a wall-hung toilet can have:

• microlift, softening the closing of the lid when thrown;
• special bowl coating with minimal friction;
• odor removal system;
• function of “deep” flush and protection against splashes of water.

Other subtleties relate to the features of the installation system, which is selected separately. In particular, pay attention to the supporting frame. It must be made of a galvanized steel profile, which has a height-adjustable top bar with longitudinal slots, otherwise it may be difficult to bypass communications when fastening. If you plan to install in a niche, choose a narrow installation option with a high tank. In some installations, the support legs can be turned for more convenient installation inside the 50 or 75 mm profile. It is imperative to have a soundproof gasket, studs and seals for the toilet. The fan connection must have a turn, adjustable length and extension of 90-110 mm for easy connection to the toilet.

With regard to the tank and fittings for it: give preference to a separate (economical) flush device, also choose the right side of the water supply, or purchase a universal option. The jib valve from the kit must be of good quality and have a nut for tightening without tools. Each installation is completed with an original button, you cannot choose another. In most cases, the delivery set is complete, but it will not be superfluous to check the presence of all elements.

Site preparation, sewerage and water supply

The width of the installation is from 35 to 55 cm, the depth usually does not exceed 20 cm. This makes it convenient to install next to a sewer riser with subsequent sewing of the plasterboard wall. However, if you do not plan to move the wall that much, you will need to cut a niche..

The shallow depth of the niche allows you to cut it even in the load-bearing wall, while it is not at all necessary to cut the niche into a full profile. It is only necessary to free up space for the tank, the drain pipe, the fan pipe and the sewer outlet. This way you can cut the dirty work of making a niche by almost half. You will still need to sew up the wall with plasterboard, but with the manufacture of a niche, you will save 100–150 mm of space. It is better to fasten the bearing posts close to the wall without studs, slightly adjusting the vertical level.

It is better to bring the sewage system to the funnel outlet vertically from below, laying a pipe of 110 mm from the riser with the minimum allowable slope, this will give more freedom when choosing the lowest installation height of the toilet bowl. Most typical connection configurations can be made using the standard taps supplied with the installation. Otherwise, it is better not to use a corrugated transition, but to choose more reliable rigid corner joints, since a wide range of parts allows you to do this. It may be a little troublesome, but with a guarantee.

It is also not recommended to use flexible hoses for connection to the water supply. Instead, it is better to bring the pipe directly to the corner valve, which is installed inside the revision niche. If there is no confidence in the standard valve, replace it with a quality ball valve. But be prepared for possible difficulties when it is forced to replace it: it is not very convenient to work with a wrench in a niche.

Fastening the installation to different types of walls

When installing the installation, draw a vertical line along the wall to mark the central axis of the installation. It should be transferred to the floor at right angles to the wall. Next, you need to draw a line parallel to the wall indented to the installation depth. The installation can be mounted both before and after filling the starting profile, determine this in advance.

The first step is to loosen the screws of the adjustable legs, and set the desired height, as well as the horizontal level of installation. After that, the legs are clamped and transferred half the distance between the lower mounting holes on the left and right of the center line on the floor. By drilling two holes, you can fix the installation to the floor. If the set includes screws with plastic plugs, it is better to replace them with metal anchors.

Adjust the top bar so that the attachment line is above or below the braces attached to the wall. Insert the studs with the screwed brackets into the frame holes and lock them with nuts so that they stand perpendicularly. Align the installation at a vertical level, pressing it against the wall and tightening the nuts on the studs. Then you can drill holes and install brackets by tightening the studs. In the end, it is recommended to finally level the installation strictly according to the level, because when installing the fasteners, it will inevitably move a little.

Fastening with expansion anchors is only allowed to a brick or concrete base. If the wall material is less dense, such as aerated concrete or shell rock, you must resort to alternative options. In a private house, it is better to drill through the wall and fix the installation on two through studs with a wide washer on the back, this is the most reliable option.

If this is not possible, use special fasteners. Dowels with a spiral or screw plug are well held in aerated concrete. Chemical anchors almost always cope with fastening critical structures to shell rock. Installation to the self-supporting insulated wire panel is best done through an intermediate bus made of steel strip, which is fixed in the places where the bars pass. Fastening to a tree should not be done with black self-tapping screws, they burst under load. It is better to use socket head screws, such as are often found in installations.