Stair tread replacement

As a result of long-term use, scratches, chips and spots appear on the treads, as well as traces of uneven wear and cracks. In all types of stairs, it is easy to replace individual treads, except for the rounded tread of the first step, which requires disassembling the railing and removing the lower support post of the railing. If your staircase is not carpeted, try to match the replacement material to the original. To replace the tread on which the coating will be laid, take a part of the window sill board, which comes with a ready-made rounded one edge.

You can also make a tread from any softwood board by sawing it off to size, rounding the outside edge with a jointer and sanding it. It is easiest to remove the tread from the top as described on this page, however if you do not have access from below, be careful not to dislodge the wedge in the bowstring slot. If the wedge is lost, support the new tread on a 50 x 25 mm block, screwed to the bowstring so that its upper edge is in the same plane with the lower face of the tread.

Removing the old tread

1. Sawing the old tread into three parts. After removing the intermediate balusters, the side band and the overhead side roller, drill the holes to start sawing and make cuts across the tread in two places, without touching the upper and lower risers.

2. Removing parts of the tread. Drive a chisel into the middle of the tread above the riser so that the bead is removed without damaging the ridge of the riser. Move back gradually, chipping off pieces of the tread. Be especially careful when removing the last few centimeters of the tread, as this is where it is screwed to the rear riser. Then, in the same way, use a mallet and chisel to remove the two remaining treads by splitting the wood around the nails and removing the nails and screws. Saw off the new tread to size. If the stairs use joints between treads and risers in a quarter or in tongue, take these features into account when choosing the width of the tread and make a groove or groove and comb in it (you can entrust this work to a qualified carpenter).

Installing a new tread on an open staircase

1. Markup. Use a metal combination square to mark where to attach the side skim roller on the outside of the new tread. First, draw a line for the “mustache” connection from the corner between the outer end and the outer edge of the tread at an angle of 45 degrees, then draw a line parallel to the outer end in accordance with the width of the side overhead roller.

2. Cut. With a fine-toothed hacksaw with a backing, cut along the line at an angle of 45 degrees, then saw off across the fibers with a fine-toothed hacksaw. You can also saw off the tread with an electric jigsaw by attaching a bar as a guide and flipping the tread so that the top plate is at the bottom. After sawing, work the surfaces with a butt planer and chisel..

3. Making grooves for a tenon dovetail joint. Temporarily refit the tread and use a plumb line to mark a point under the center of the hole in the rail. Insert the top end of the handrail post into the hole in the handrail, press the post against the tread so that the center of the post is opposite the plumb line, and mark the angled lines to create the groove. Using a square, continue the lines on the upper and lower faces of the tread and connect them at right angles at a distance from the end of the tread equal to the thickness of the railing post. Do the same for the other rack. If the handrail posts are designed to be connected to a round tenon, drill the holes using the marks as their centers.

4. Sawing grooves. With a tenon saw, make cuts along the lines, then saw off at the back with a scoring saw. Trim the corners with a chisel if necessary. If the railing posts have round spikes, drill holes in the tread with a drill with a center drill or brace with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the spikes and a depth of 9 mm.

5. Setting a new tread. Spread a sufficient amount of PVA glue on the edge of the riser, stringer and in the socket of the bowstring located against the wall. Replace the tread, then drill three equally spaced holes through the tread into the riser. Install No. 8 screws, 37 mm long, recessed heads, and seal the holes with putty. Do not walk up the steps for about an hour to harden the glue. Replace the handrail posts, side roll and straps as instructed on the previous page.

6. Securing the tread from below. If access to the bottom of the ladder is available, drill pilot holes through the riser into the tread and install 37mm # 8 screws. Install corner bars along the joint between riser and tread.

Installing a new tread on a closed staircase

1. Determination of the length of the new tread. Measure the distance across the ladder from the face of one bowstring to the bottom of the groove in the other bowstring. Subtract two to three millimeters for the gap and cut a new tread to that length. If the front tread has a ridge or a quarter is selected to join the old tread, remove the ridge with a chisel and planer. If there is a ridge on the back riser, carefully remove the ridge with a chisel so that the new tread can be easily pushed into place.

2. Corner sampling. Use a tenon saw and chisel to cut a notch in one of the front corners of the new tread. The distance from the end of the tread to the edge of the notch should be equal to the depth of the socket in the string. Use a chisel to cut a notch at a distance equal to the overhang of the roller plus 10 mm for the gap. Save the carved corner.

3. Installing a new tread. Apply PVA glue to the slots, to the edge of the riser and to the bottom of the tread. While holding the part of the tread that is not notched at an angle, insert the notched end into the bowstring slot. The notch will help push the tread far enough so that it does not snag the roller of the higher tread. Lower the raised edge of the tread over the back riser, then slide it to the side until the notch is visible. Glue the cut-out corner in place and secure it with a nail, drilling an auxiliary hole so that it does not split. Center the tread, drill the auxiliary holes and secure the tread with # 8 screws, 37 mm long.

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