How to make a mobile country house with your own hands. Part 1

Recommendation points

• What tools will be needed first of all
• Building the frame of the house
• Pile foundation
• Overlap and floor
• Walls

To build a country house on your own is quite within the power of everyone who knows how to hold tools in their hands. In this article we will tell you how to make a mobile country house of 3×4 meters of the “ultra-economy” class on the site on our own with a budget of 154,500 rubles.

Building materials, like the services of the builders themselves, are getting more expensive every year. Summer residents and fans of out-of-town recreation can only rely on their strength and modest financial capabilities. However, in this case, there is a way out..

Describing the construction process, we will focus primarily on saving and reducing material costs. Therefore, you will have to make some devices yourself. The well-known “Canadian” technology for the construction of frame houses is optimized and adjusted to the financial capabilities of a family with an average income.

A country house with an area of ​​12 square meters can be built together in about 5-7 days. It should be noted that any finishing materials, including elite ones, can be used on the basis of the frame. This option is suitable for those who decided to go into the resort business and rent out houses to vacationers.

What tools will be needed first of all

For the construction of a frame house, mainly wooden materials are used, so carpentry tools and skills will be needed:

1. Disk hand power saw. Disc diameter – not less than 190 mm.

Council. When choosing such a saw, pay attention to the possibility of using it as a stationary sawmill.

2. Saw for trimming boards. You can use any available trimming method, or make a fixture.
3. Electric jigsaw. Power from 650 W with different files.
4. Powerful screwdrivers (2 pcs.). It is undesirable to use electric drills in this case – it is difficult to control the speed of rotation of the head.
5. Electric drill 1000 W with a set of drills for wood and metal. Drill for wood 5×200 mm.
6. Bulgarian. Disc diameter from 125 mm. Cutting discs for metal 1.5 mm, disc for stone “turbowave”.
7. Manual earth rocket with a screw 160 mm (device for drilling holes and boreholes up to 1 m deep).
8. Hand tools: hammers, chisels, knives, saws, levels, etc..
9. Inventory: buckets, wheelbarrows, etc..

The main fastening material is self-tapping screws. You can get by with three types of them (the number for the entire object):

• 45х3.2 – 10 thousand pcs. (1000 rub.)
• 90×4.2 – 10 thousand pcs. (1000 rub.)
• turboprop 6×200 – 500 pcs. (1000 rub.)

Building the frame of the house

Pile foundation

This type of foundation was chosen for several reasons – cheapness, ease of installation, low labor intensity and high speed of construction. Work on such a foundation can be continued the next day after the concrete is laid. In addition, it does not require formwork.

There must be an air gap between the ground and the floor slab. Therefore, we take the height of the piles above the ground 200 mm. In the case of construction in an area subject to floods, the height of the piles is selected based on the maximum water level.

We divide the sides of the site 3×4 m into equal segments of 1 m.Pull the cords and hammer in the pegs at the intersections.

Foundation plan and floor slab: 1 – piles Ø160 mm; 2 – main beams; 3 – additional beams

Using a manual earthen rotor, we bury the wells 1 m under the future piles. If the ground is dense, uneven or rocky, we pass the maximum depth.

We cut asbestos-cement pipes on the basis of “maximum depth + 25 cm”. We cover with a primer. We install pipes in seats (wells).

1 – wells 1000 mm deep; 2 – asbestos-cement pipes 1250 mm

We check the horizon of the top of the piles with a hydraulic level. In case of discrepancies (more than 5 mm), mark under the lowest of them and cut the rest with a grinder.

Council. You can accurately draw a cutting line on the pipe by wrapping it with a strip of paper or roofing paper with smooth edges..

We install pre-made reinforcing cages into pipes.

1 – working reinforcement Ø12 mm and length 1250 mm; 2 – clamp made of wire Ø6 mm; 3 – 100 mm

We put concrete in the sleeves. Be sure to bayonet.

Council. Make a funnel in advance from scrap materials.

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Price, rub.	Total cost, rub.	Note
Asbestos-cement pipe 150 mm	run. m	25	150	3750	At a depth of 1 m and a height of 0.25 m above the ground
Rebar 12	run. m	one hundred	25	2500	On the frame rods
Wire 6	run. m	thirty	ten	300	On clamps
Concrete	m3	1.6	1000	1600	Sand + cement + crushed stone
Total material	8150	Prices may vary depending on the region and the terms of the contract
Job	6000
Total material and work	14150

Overlap and floor

The floor will be based on paired 150×40 boards installed on the edge. This part of the building will be hidden, so its elements should be protected as much as possible from moisture and insects, since in the future this may not be possible. It is best to use for these purposes a ready-made bituminous primer on a water (cheaper) or oil (more expensive) basis. Oil penetrates deeper, but is toxic during operation.

Attention! Only after mating should be primed. Do not prime bonding surfaces!

We recommend the BiEM water-based bitumen primer. Non-toxic, affordable and dries quickly (about 15 rubles / m²).

Main beams

Our optimized design combines the functions of the same element. Therefore, the main beams will play the role of a grillage of the pile foundation, support beams and floor logs at the same time. With a low load from the building, this is quite acceptable..

We lay the boards 150×40 along the foundation piles on the edge so that the inner plane of the beams of the extreme rows runs along the axis of the pillar. The tying principle is circular. We mark, cut to size.

1 – wood glue; 2 – board 150×40; 3 – turboprop

Attention! Do not cut the board without trying in place on the piles – there may be discrepancies.

We assemble the main box of cut boards with 90×4.2 screws, one per node. We check the diagonal and, if necessary, adjust the corners.

We cut 3 pairs of boards to size for internal beams. We pair them with clamps and self-tapping screws 90×4.2, having previously lubricated with carpentry glue. Any glue will do – epoxy, PVA, mezdrovy.

Council. The glued structure holds the size much better than a solid solid wood and is less susceptible to natural deformations when the humidity changes (due to the tensile forces of the glued surfaces).

We recommend using Titebond II Wood Glue (USA). Price – about 220 rubles / kg.

We lay paired logs along the inner piles and fix them with 1-2 screws.

We make an external strapping, as shown in the picture. We also grease the planes with glue..

We carefully check the dimensions and diagonals, if necessary adjust the dimensions by shifting one of the corners with a sledgehammer.

Power harness. We install 2 turboprops 200 mm for each joint or abutment.

Additional transverse floor joists

The distance of 1 meter between the longitudinal joists is too large for the floor. Therefore, we arrange additional transverse beams of the type of the main ones (paired with glue). We install them with a step of 500 mm along the inner space. The cells should be 500×900 mm in size. Make sure that the joints of the future floor material (OSB 1250×2750) must fall on the logs. Move or add beams as needed.

Raised floor

Since there is no way to hem the logs from below, we arrange a “bottom” in the cells for laying insulation plates in them. To do this, at a distance of 100 mm from the horizontal lag, we fasten strips from a 20×40 rail along the two long sides of the cell. Then we cut a 25 mm unedged board into size and fix it on them with self-tapping screws.

Attention! An unedged board should be debarked, checked for the presence / absence of bark beetle and shashel, processed in the bathroom and primed.

We put 100 mm insulation in the cells, having previously laid the bottom with polyethylene or roofing material. In this case, the insulation should protrude somewhat from the cell. This is necessary for a snug fit to the OSB board, which will give good sound absorption.

Laying floor material

OSB-3 boards (18-22 mm) are laid on the joists with a gap of 3-4 mm and fastened with self-tapping screws 45×36 with a pitch of 100 mm. The gaps are filled with a special non-shrinking floor sealant.

Attention! Fitted floor joints can squeak over time!

After laying all the slabs, apply the axes of the supporting and additional logs to the floor surface. When installing the walls, it will be easier to get a self-tapping screw into the beam.

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Price, rub.	Total cost, rub.	Note
Board 150×40	cub. m	0,4	4500	1800
Rail	cub. m	0.08	4500	350
Unedged board 25 mm	cub. m	0.3	3500	1050	For raised floor
Insulation	cub. m	1,2	1500	1800	Thickness 100 mm
Primer	sq. m	20	15	300	For the whole object
Joiner’s glue	Kg	five	220	1100	For the whole object
OSB-3 18 mm	sq. m	12	300	3600
Total material	10000	Prices may vary depending on the region and the terms of the contract
Job	6000
Total material and work	16000

Walls

The walls will serve as vertical elements of the frame, from the inside visually passing into the ceiling. Constructive wall panel thickness is 120 mm. We take the height of the walls 2.4 meters.

Let us consider the principle of assembling an adapted frame wall panel using the example of a 3 m long wall with an entrance door and a window. Determine the length of the wall based on the dimensions of the floor slab. The assembled panels will be installed “round” one at a time. The length of the outer wall will always be less than the side length of the floor slab by the thickness of the panel (by 110 mm). A wall panel with a length of 3000 mm will have a size of 2890 mm. 1 m² walls are consumed 2.5 linear meters. m boards, 2 m² OSB and 0.1 m³ insulation.

Frame

We cut a board 100×50: 2 pcs. 2890 mm each, 6 pcs. 2300 mm each, 3 pcs. 1000 mm each, 1 pc. by 500 mm.

Principle of wall frame assembly: 1 – OSB board; 2 – window; 3 – door; 4 – board 100×500

We lay out, as shown in the figure. The panel lies with the inside facing up. We bait one 90×4.2 self-tapping screw. Checking the diagonals! We fix 2-3 screws.

Sheathing

We lay 10 mm OSB-3 slabs on top of the frame with an overlap of 50 mm in the upper part. We cut through the window. We fix OSB with self-tapping screws 45×3.8 with a pitch of 50-70 mm.

We turn over the panel. We lay insulation 100 mm thick.

We lay out OSB-3 panels (10 mm) as follows. The overlap in the upper part is 50 mm, in the lower part – 150 mm (needed to bundle together the floor slab, wall and armopoyas). Lay the entire sheets on the bottom row in length, but do not fix them. Fix next rows.

Council. For greater structural strength, before fixing OSB, the edges of the frame can be coated with wood glue.

Installation

We install the panel in the design position – vertically on the edge of the floor slab. Screw the slopes (20×40 rail) on the sides of the panel in advance. We temporarily fix the wall with slopes. We set it according to the level, the bottom of the wall (along the board) – flush with the edge of the floor slab.

After checking the verticality of the installation, we fix the bottom of the wall, through the unsewn area outside, into the floor slab. At least 4 points per cell (self-tapping screws 90×4.2).

Sew on the bottom row of OSB sheets, tying them to the floor slab.

We install and tie the rest of the walls and partitions in the same way. We fasten together with turboprop, having previously tightened with clamps (if possible).

1st floor plan

Armopoyas

Armopoyas is a row of boards 100×50, reinforced flat on the tops of the walls. Armopoyas elements are connected with a nail plate and OSB overlaps from the walls.

Attention! Do not neglect the armored belt! In this design, it replaces the entire ceiling slab!

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Price, rub.	Total cost, rub.	Note
Board 100×50	cub. m	3.125	4500	14000
OSB-3 10 mm	sq. m	50	160	8000
Insulation	cub. m	2.5	1500	3750
Total material	25750	Prices may vary depending on the region and the terms of the contract
Job	15000
Total material and work	40750

So, the main frame is ready. From now on, you can give free rein to your imagination and model the roof, interior and exterior finishes, doors and windows to your taste. However, there are several important points to keep in mind:

1. The roof rafter system is part of the frame, so whichever roof configuration you choose, remember that the rafter beams must be securely connected to the tops of the walls..
2. Walls 120 mm are designed for one floor! For the construction of the 2nd or attic floor, use a 150×40 board instead of a 100×50 board in all elements of the first floor, and a 100×50 board for the 2nd floor. The rest of the technology will remain unchanged.
3. Despite the sufficient rigidity of the frame, it is still wooden. This means that natural deformations will occur – shrinkage and moisture saturation of the tree. Consider this when installing doors and windows.
4. Ventilation is an important factor for timber houses. Don’t try to make a thermos out of your home. We recommend installing fans (1-2 pcs.) With an automatic swing arm. When covering a pile foundation, lay one vent on each side. These measures are necessary to equalize the composition and humidity of air in rooms and uniform humidification / drying (“breathing”) of wooden materials at home.
5. The technology has been simplified to the limit. Failure to take any measures provided in the recommendations of this article may lead to unexpected and unpleasant consequences..

How to continue and complete construction, read the second part of the article.